Donald Sherburn

Large flat bladed screwdriver & rubber mallett, tap gently but firmly & it will undo. Note!!!... when replacing fuel pump place rubber seal in tank FIRST and then pump body, if you try to place body with seal attached in tank you will not be able to screw on the securing cap. I spent 2 hours with foot on cap, mallett in hand & unlit fag in lips due to petrol fumes. When fitted tap cap to tighten with mallett.

[Freelander 1 2001 1.8 petrol manual box 84000 miles] Ignition on, orange HDC light on dash lites up, goes out after startup, HDC Switch on gear lever appears to engage but does not light up bulb on dash, tried descending "hill" (steep lane in fact) in 1st & reverse,no apparant control of vehicle occurring. Checked out all wiring & connections under gaiter of HDC switch appears OK, no fuses blown etc] Any suggestions & comments greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know if & how the rear output drive can be removed for checking free movement? I intend to carry out futher investigations this weekend as this seems to be the cause. Thanks.

Did my Freebie 2001 last May - 68581 on mileometer . Mine also had been done before with the MLS gasket and the head had been skimmed, could see the circular "skim" marks!!! Took to Jse Services, Blackwood, Gwent Tel 01443 835898 for advice, recommended PRESSURE TEST (most important as it turned out), reskim, valve seats recut and new vavlves & springs etc. Approx cost just over £200 not bad. After pressure test "Failed" head cracked between exhaust 2 & 3 only possibility to get engine going was to purchase new / reconditioned head. OH Bother I thought!! until after a phone call to his suppliers he got me a fully reconditioned head for £270 inc VAT. He even let me off the £35 for pressure test!. New head arrived NEXT DAY went to collect and picked up new gasket set, water pump, head bolts, timing belts, "gasket cement" for shim layer of gaket etc came to £398 inc vat. Did not replace oil rail on rebuild as deemed not necessary by JSE but did fit the modified cooling kit part no PCH001190 approx £60 from Land Rover Swansea. Rebuilt engine with son making sure of correct torque settings and timing etc. Changed plugs and did oil / filter change from "clotted cream" to recommended genuine oil. Engine fired up first time after rebuild. Bled the cooling system approx 3 or 4 times after running for approx 50 miles and checked daily for first month thereafter "to be Sure no coolant loss" Since then and 7500 miles later NO problems, getting 29.8 mpg (checked every time I fill since rebuild) which includes approx 500 miles towing my boat around to various places to fish and general town / motorway driving. I would add that I do not have any affiliation to JSE SERVICES except that I am now a loyal customer and respect his opinions and views. I hope all goes well with your rebuild LOL.

Sons speedometer dial "jumping" all over the place when travelling normally, 30mph reversing out of drive!!!etc etc. Have cleaned up speed sensor electrical connector, no improvement, taken apart & cleaned speed sensor, no improvement, replaced sensor with new part, still no joy. Speedometer instrument removed, needle moving freely with no stickyness at all. Looked at all related items on forum, only thing I found was when renewing sensor no sealing washer supplied so not fitted & "inner" drive to sensor not removed or cleaned as unsure whether it can be removed easily. Can the sensor be checked with multimeter or even hooking sensor up to an electric drill and spinning it?? Looking for answers from you knowledgeable people as I am not willing to "permanently" lend son my hand held GPS!! (He has requested it as an easy fix), thanks in anticipation.

This worked for me £49 inc VAT let them do all the testing!! Kwik Fit now offers a complete air conditioning recharge service available at centres across the UK. Operated on a drive-in basis there is usually no need for an appointment, but now you can book an appointment at your local Kwik Fit centre using our new online service here. Within an hour the whole recharge process is completed. The process can also include a system de-bug to clear bacterial build up from within the system, which will remove any unpleasant odours. Our trained technicians will show you the difference in your Air-Con system before and after recharge. Air-Con systems not fully recharged will be less effective and have to work harder putting more strain on the engine and using more fuel. If your Air-Con system has not been recharged in 2 years it will dramatically reduce efficiency. During the hotter summer months motorists use the Air-Con system more; however your system is also useful in winter. Air-Con systems create dry warm air rather than the normal humid air from outside and this de-mists your car windscreen more quickly.To keep your Air-Con system fully charged all year, why not call in to Kwik Fit and have your vehicle’s air conditioning system recharged with gas and lubricant today. Recharge or No Charge Let Kwik Fit recharge your Air Con while-u-wait. We will replace and recharge lubricant and refrigerant levels in line with your manufacturer’s recommendation. If we cannot improve the coolest vent temperature from your car by more than 10% when measured in degrees Celsius - then you pay nothing at all.* If you have pre-paid by booking your appointment online, we will arrange for your credit or debit card to be refunded. * Please note if the ambient temperature around the car is less than 9 degrees Celsius it may affect the results of the AirCon recharge test results. In these circumstances, it is at the managers discretion whether to offer a refund with results less than 10%.

Front passenger door window regulator cable lengths required to carry out servicing of my "shot & broken" cables. I am attempting to replace with Halfrauds stainless steel brake cables with nipples soldered onto cables. All pulleys and outer casings intact and working freely together with regulator. Unable to measure existing due to breaks / twisting. Have not gone down Ebay cable replacement route as I am at my holiday caravan until Sept in West Wales which doesnt have a postal address to send to!!! Any help will be gratefully received.

Have removed all of caliper and pads AND two screws in front discs ...cannot budge discs to replace. Any way apart from BIG hammer to remove, would heat from blow torch affect anything? Any way to cut disc off with angle grinder? Have shiny new discs and pads ready to replace so not bothered about old discs. Any help would be gratefully appreciated, thanks in advance.

Haynes manual quote "Cooling system filling ... disconnect inlet manifold bleed hose, connect a length of hose to outlet stub and blow through the tube, this ensures that the bleed valve pin is not stuck in closed position." Even with a pair of bellows stuck up my sons rear end could he blow through it!! giving me the impression that it is well and truely stuck. PROBLEM .... how to repair / replace said valve? Answers appreciated ASAP as son wishes bellows to be removed!! Thanks in advance.