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I use 20w50 in my 4.2, usually Millers Classic or one of the known makes, but it's more important that you change it regularly with V8s in my opinion. I don't usually leave it in there for much longer than 3000 miles or 6 months but that's just me. Graham. 1994 RRC LSE 1952 80" 1965 109 SW (Sold)

Thank you.

Sorry for the highjack but could you enlighten me as to where you found the download please? Thanks Graham.

That's excellent, thank you both as well. Graham.

Many thanks to both of you for your help, I'll see how I get on. Thanks Graham.

Hello I am looking for a workshop manual that covers my 1994 LSE. It obviously has the 4.2 engine but all manuals I've seen so far stop at 1992 or only cover the 3.5 and 3.9 variants. Any help would be gratefully appreciated thank you. Graham.

Thanks for that wilf, I've bought a complete heater panel with bulb holders in it as mine was cracked anyway, so will see what it's like when it arrives and will come back to you if necessary. Many thanks Graham.

Hello Michael Thanks for that. The reason I'm asking is because I have seen a drivers door on E-bay and the chap says it's off a 1988 car and thought it was Ardennes green but I didn't think it was so I'll keep looking for one. I'm hoping to find one that I don't have to spray, you see. Thanks again Graham.

Hello Could anyone tell me if they produced Ardennes Green in 1988 please? Thank you.

Thanks for that Steve.

Hello I removed the heater control panel from my '92 Vogue as only one light was working but found the reason for the others not working was that at least one of the male spade connectors on each of the bulb holders was snapped off. Could somebody please tell me if it is possible to buy these bulb holders and also how do you remove them from the back of the panel because I have tried pulling and twisting but they don't seem to want to budge. Alternatively, has anyone got a spare panel please complete with lights as a PO has obviously overdone it when refitting and has cracked the panel where the screw goes through. Many thanks Graham.

Many thanks for that, I have now ordered metric calipers, discs, pads, bolts etc. so hopefully they should all fit. I'll let you know how I get on. Graham. (Please excuse my naivety but what's a softie?)

Hello I need to order new discs and pads for my 92/93 vogue 3.9 and will probably order a set of caliper bolts as well as they are proving to be a pain to remove, and depending what I find new calipers might be required as well. When I look on the various dealers websites they ask if they are metric or imperial, can anyone please tell me or do I need the axle number? Many thanks Graham.

Thank you once again for all the advice. I'll go with the resistor plugs as I have them "in stock" and see how it performs and I'll try them at 26/27 thou. I've ordered new genuine plug leads, cap and rotor arm and will put them on one at a time and try each of them a day and see if the performance changes. As I said, she seems to be running fine as it is but I can't resist renewing some things.At least I know I have good spares of everything. I'll use 20/50 as I buy it in 25 ltr. drums, and also put it in my 80", and because I probably change it far too often anyway so it sounds like it should be okay. I renewed the oil in the engine , diffs and transfer box this morning and started soaking the bleed nipples on the calipers this afternoon in readiness for a brake fluid transfusion next weekend. I'll get the mechanical bits right first and then start on the wire brush and waxoil. Thanks again Graham.

Gentlemen, you are all such stars. I am overwhelmed at such generousity with your knowledge of Range Rovers it is quite remarkable. Thank you so much for all your help and advice, and I will try my best not to burden you with too many questions in the future, but I'm afraid that my leap from Series ownership to the seemingly heady heights of Range Rovers does appear quite large at the moment, and therefore my presence may be quite a regular habit. I'm looking forward to the weekend and my real chance to aquaint myself with my new purchase. Many thanks once again Graham.

Thank you Range Rover Blues for your comments and input. On the matter of plugs I have this morning found a new pack of NGK BPRES plugs in my garage that I obviously had over from one of my previous V8s, albeit a 3.5, so would you advise against the use of these with the resistor in? I only ask, as everything I do nowadays is on a budget and so if they will do no harm I would have used them. Any comments gratefully received. Thank you Graham.

I completely take on board what you're saying bishbosh and I will drive it and see how it performs before making any rash decisions.But I will change the transfer oil just to get my fix. Duncmc The engine seems to run very nicely so when I change the plugs I'll check the gaps of the ones that are in there and set the new ones accordingly. The tyre pressures I will also set as the manual and see how the car behaves. Thank you both for your advice, and if I can grab a grandchild I may even be able to post a few photos. Graham.

Hello Once again thank you for all the advice. Mr bishbosh When you say don't change the gearbox oil, do you actually mean, never change it? Or don't change it unless you change/clean the filter? I can see your reasoning for not wanting to, and I bow down to your obviously greater knowledge of all things Range Rover, but I've always been a great believer in fresh oil and frequent changes and this rather goes against my beliefs. But if you mean don't change it then I won't. With my background of Land Rovers you can imagine I didn't have a lot to do with automatics and I was forever changing the oils on most things underneath. Anyway,back to maintainence, and a couple of questions please. Do you set the gaps on the plugs the same as the manual says or is it different when running LPG? Would 20w50 oil be okay for the 3.9 or should I be looking at something a little thinner? And lastly for now, I have a set of 235 70 16 AT tyres on it and was wondering what the pressure should be. Thanks again for your warm welcome, it makes an old man very happy. Graham.

Well, thank you everyone who replied for putting my mind at rest,I am still apprehensive but not quite as panicky now. It does seem that every post I read though usually concerns something electrical but as you so rightly say, worry about it when the time comes. Well it duly arrived this morning and I had about half an hour to look over it at lunchtime so went straight for the rust areas that have been mentioned. To be honest I was very happy at what I found and obviously quite relieved. There had been several repairs done to places like the cills and rear cross member but it looked like a pretty professional job (better than I could have done that's for sure)and there is a lot of evidence still of waxoilly type coverings to most metal underneath and what looks like Hammerite paint to the floor areas inside the door thresholds. Anyway, try as I might with the trusty screwdriver I was thwarted from finding anything to repair. Give it time! So, this weekend will see me draining everything that will drain and refilling it with new fluids, and then the usual new ignition parts, and a once over of the stopping bits and steering bits and then take to the road. Just a quick question now I have reminded myself...the only V8 engines I have had dealings with in the past are the ones that I have transplanted into various Series vehicles and they were mostly SDI and all were 3.5. Now I always used 20w50 in those ones, the same as I put in the 2.25 engines. Do I use the same in the 3.9 or a 15/40 or something please? As time goes by I will almost certainly be on here looking for answers in the past posts or asking for your time, patience and knowledge to assist me so please accept my apologies for using your precious time to this end. Many thanks once again Graham.

After forty odd years of playing with cars, and the last twenty or so of them messing with Land Rovers, and still using my 1950 80" as my sole means of transport to work, and hopefully back, everyday, I am about to take possession of my first Range Rover. This will be coming in the guise of a 1993 Vogue 3.9 with a Zavoli gas system, MOT until next year sometime, and from the looks and description seems a reasonable buy ( on the surface). Anyway,considering that 95% of the Land Rovers I have rebuilt/restored have been Series vehicles, and the remaining percentage haven't been Range Rovers, I am understandably nervous. AKA. Petrified. Mechanically I think I'm in with a shouting chance, and with that many Series vehicles under my belt I have had to learn to use a mig, so I'm reasonably happy from those respects. But what I am not too thrilled about is the sheer enormity of the use of these "relay" things and "ECU's" whatever they are. Having said that,my desire to own a Classic has finally made me take leave of my senses and at the very mature age that I have achieved I feel it is now or never.Therefore, in readiness for the fast approaching doom,I ask for your obviously vast wealth of experience to guide me in what may be my darkest, literally, and probably motionless, days to come. Firstly, would I be correct in thinking that I need some kind of code reader to help me in deciphering any problems that will almost certainly arise as soon as I take possession, and if so where would I obtain one please? Secondly, if I have a code number where would I be able to look up what it relates to so that I can then come onto this forum and ask you all how to fix it please? Thirdly, please be gentle with me when you answer as I am an old man with a "Series" bad back who just wants a bit of comfort as he heads towards his white haired days. Thank you Graham.

Hello The 2.25 petrol engine is probably the easiest conversion you would be able to do bearing in mind your location in the world. The hardest part to source will probably be a Series 11 (not 11a) bell housing that you will need if you wish to keep the Series 1 gearbox, because the input shafts are of a different size and once again this is the simplest way to overcome this. The clutch levers etc. will all work okay with this set up. The linkages for the carburettor will have to be altered to suit the new location but this can be quite easily done using a set from a Series 11 or 111. The exhaust from a Series 11 or 111 will also fit after you have removed a short piece from the straight section and welded it back together. The elbow section that sits on top of the carburettor is too tall for the bonnet and needs to be adjusted to allow the bonnet to shut properly and most people have their own ways of achieving this. I can't think of much else at the moment and have done it twice myself in the past but using a Series 11a gearbox is an easier option and I did this to my present 80", especially as the Series 11 bell housings are getting quite scarse now even over here. Good luck if this is what you decide to do. Feel free to e-mail me if you need any help. Regards Graham. P.S. The overdrive will fit a Series 1, 11 and 111 gearbox.

I can confirm that they fit because I've just done the same to mine albeit the other way round. 110 to Series. The locks will swop over on the doors but don't forget the Series are lift up and the later Defender are push button. Not sure what year your 110 is. Graham.

Yes,so long as the cases look the same they are completely interchangable. Unless you had the same previous owner that I did who thought it would be perfectly acceptable to swop just the rear one for a Range Rover unit. It was very interesting in four wheel drive.

Thanks for that. Graham.