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DaveSIIA

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    Buxton, Derbyshire

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  1. Does the circlip face of the new drive flange sit at the same distance off the hub face as the old drive member i.e. thickness?
  2. You would be better off rebuilding the box you have with new synchro rings & seals than messing around swapping parts between the Defender & Disco boxes. The swap will involve a major strip & rebuild, so might as well do the job properly, with known good parts.
  3. Sounds like the 3rd / 4th gear synchromesh hub has failed in some way. It is possible to lift the cab floor to gain access to the top of the gearbox and remove the top cover for a peek inside. Does the gear lever move to the correct positions to select 3rd or 4th?
  4. I agree with Western on this. Was the vehicle yours before it was imported or did you buy it from the importer as is (inc tow bar problem)?
  5. The larger bump stops will also limit compression of the springs. Only way is to accept an increased ride height.
  6. You run the risk of the shorter springs of the same rate becoming coil-bound on compression. Would it not be better to raise the spring hangers on the chassis if you want to retain the upper platform height?
  7. Out of interest, does the converse hold true i.e. if the intake temperature raises by 100°C at a boost ratio of 2 and there is no intercooler, would the EGT rise by 200°C?
  8. Forget the LR conversion, this is the "Apocalypse Grade" camper https://www.businessinsider.com/custom-rv-expedition-camper-van-traveling-australia-slrv-2019-12
  9. Interesting conversion, but I wonder what the GVW comes to - probably enough to max out the ratings of a pair of 110 axles? The long wheelbase and rear overhang will curtail much in the way of off-road exploration, sufficient that it might have been better built on a 4x4 commercial chassis.
  10. The thread on that looks a bit short to work with the high-low link. Work out how much extension you need and make a complete linkage out of M8 threaded rod or run some threads on 8mm bar. Keep the solution simple.
  11. I would second this approach and as far as possible stick with off the shelf trim parts. How much further forward will the high-low / diff lock selector need to be to put it in a "standard position"? If there isn't enough length in the rod for the high-low selector, a suitable one could be made from threaded rod. The bottom end of the diff lock actuator possibly could be extended with a welded on tab.
  12. How viable would it be for you to have cast the cover and machined to finish? Would save turning a billet in to swarf and no doubt back to a billet.
  13. 62 & 63 plates on the vehicles. Just accepted that this is the way they have been from new and never had to look at IVA reg's - interesting. On both vehicles, the rear fog will work with side lights illuminated (bearing in mind that the front fogs will illuminate on side lights and by default will be on before the rear fog illuminates).
  14. Perfectly feasible. Our VW's (car & van) are wired so that the front comes on first and the rear at the second switch position. Rear has indicator light on the dash. Neither vehicle extinguishes the rear fog light when headlights are turned off.
  15. If the shared earth is the only path to earth then yes 12V will feed back through the circuit to the next earth. Does the high level brake light operate normally when the shared earth is connected? If not, there will be a poor path to earth somewhere between the door frame and body (needs to be better than just the hinges).
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