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DaveSIIA

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About DaveSIIA

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    http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/davesiia/photos
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    Buxton, Derbyshire

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  1. The right answer is to join GLASS, and benefit from / contribute to their database of lanes. However, Cumbria County Council have a wealth of information on their website. The Hierarchy of Trails Routes page (https://www.cumbria.gov.uk/roads-transport/public-transport-road-safety/countryside-access/hotr/hierarchy_of_trails_routes.asp) identifies vehicular rights of way graded by sustainability. Their Definitive Map page (https://www.cumbria.gov.uk/roads-transport/public-transport-road-safety/countryside-access/Definitive_Map/Definitive_Map.asp) shows Rights of Way by classification, but n
  2. Not Jag specific experience, but worked for a similar issue on a Renault. Disconnect the battery and short the cables together for ~30 minutes, forcing a reset of the ECU's. Found it more effective than just unplugging the ECU.
  3. Can also recommend Sandwood Bay Cape Wrath Applecross Inverewe Gardens Hill walking in Torridon Other hills further up the west coast
  4. Lochinver Larder are legendary for their pies - https://shop.lochinverlarder.com/collections/pies
  5. DaveSIIA

    RAL 5228

    Take a sample panel, with the paint you are trying to match, to a decent autopaint specialist and ask f they could scan it. Their computer should be able to come up with the closest match RAL colour. I've just done this with a valve amplifier that I've refurbished and the outcome was a match to the original which will take a lot of study to spot any difference.
  6. The low gear is common to both standard and Ashcroft high ratio transfer boxes. The choice is with the user as to whether to reuse a potentially worn low gear in mesh with the new intermediate gear and possibly suffer higher noise levels.
  7. An interesting read. Have saved for reference. Thanks.
  8. My 99 Td5 CDL had the same problem. Turned out to be moisture in the switches in the passenger door actuator sending random signals to the controller. Strip & clean of the actuator solved the problem.
  9. Can you back-probe the connector and check for 12V while connected? Could be a poor connection somewhere in the intermittent relay / supply.
  10. From memory, 1 - 2 synchro rings of a R380 will require a full strip down & rebuild as they are on the mainshaft just forward of the centre plate. 3 - 4 are accessible at the front end with just the input shaft removed. 5th requires removal of the rear housing, etc. TBH, if in that far then a full overhaul is the way to go.
  11. Sorry, I stand corrected about the rivets. The pressed vent is more significant. It has been a while since I looked very closely at the detail inside a Series rim. The photo from Gazzar would suggest that any Series / Defender rim with a deep well is going to foul. I would have to examine the Wolf rims on my 110 to see whether they share the same well dimensions. Otherwise, after-market or spacers would be the only way to clear the calipers.
  12. The rivets on a Series rim protrude on the inside face of the wheel well and may foul the caliper. Tubeless rims are generally welded, giving ~1/8" extra radial clearance.
  13. I think you will find that the clunk comes from the way that the diff lock is implemented on the LT230. The diff lock comprises a collar that sits over a set of teeth on the front output shaft and slides across to splines on the front end of the centre diff housing. The teeth on the front output shaft are quite coarse - look like every alternate tooth has been missed out. This allows a lot of backlash between the collar and the front output shaft. Combine this with any backlash in the centre diff and you have the significant clunk. Replacing the rear propshaft won't alter this. In real te
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