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Everything posted by DaveSIIA

  1. Thanks for the guidance. Will continue the soaking in penetrating fluid and then try a more substantial pull on the bars.
  2. Having difficulty opening the top tailgate on a 1992 RRC (JA VIN) as the latches appear to have seized / rusted as the release button moves but doesn't press in very far. Do the actuating rods to either side of the lock mechanism push / pull or do they rotate around their axis to operate the latches? Trying not to damage the frame as it is aluminium, so trying to work out what I can do from inside the boot. Thanks
  3. Did this mod my Defender many years ago. Easy to pack the joint with grease and top up at each service. Joints last a lot longer as they don't dry out. The rubber boots fail occasionally, but are easily replaced.
  4. I also suspect that body filler may crack if sandwiched between the two skins. Could you drill out the spot welds to remove the original panel and plug weld the new to reattach? Alternatively, a good quality panel adhesive would do the job, and not leave a row of weld marks or a double skin to trap moisture. An insurance body shop had to replace an accident damaged rear wing panel on my four year old Defender 110 CSW. They drilled out the spot welds and just used pop rivets to nail it back together (the heads of which didn't fall anywhere near a straight line). I queried this with my insurers and their body shop as being unsightly on a relatively new vehicle, even putting up calculations and manufacturers data to show that correctly applied Sikaflex panel adhesive is stronger in both peel and shear than the pop rivets - fell on deaf ears as it wasn't a Thatcham approved repair method!
  5. Could be easier to change the valve block for one from a non-EH box i.e. RRC / Disco 1. No electronics to worry about.
  6. Always used etch primer on alloy and results have been successful, even after extended exposure to UK weather. I painted my IIA in 1985 and not had any problems since with paint flaking off the alloy base. High build primer has adhered well to the etch. The red colour coat has been over painted a few years back and could probably do with a refresh. No experience with epoxy primer on alloy, so can't comment. As highlighted above, quality of preparation is the key.
  7. This might help identify which parts are missing. ley_cap.pdf
  8. I had one a turbocharged wastegated one in a RRC. Revs to 4000rpm and much more responsive than a 200Tdi. Trouble is that it is quite a bulky / heavy motor, and the exhaust is on the (UK) driver's side so has to be tucked out of the way of the propshaft. These days, my money would go on a 200 / 300Tdi installation as being much more straight forward, whilst parts are more readily available. Info from Watson & Turner (engine installer in the 90's) attached. Watson_Turner_Mazda.pdf
  9. Simple check for wheel bearings vs swivel bearings is to have someone firmly hold down the brake pedal while you check 12-6 - the brake will lock the wheel relative to the hub. If the play disappears then it is wheel bearings, else it's the swivel set up.
  10. The sales brochure from Watson & Turner might help you. I had a turbo-wastegated version in a RRC auto and it well very well compared to a 200Tdi. Watson_Turner_Mazda.pdf
  11. DaveSIIA

    TD5 clutch

    Td5 has a pressure sensor on the clutch hydraulics as part of the anti-stall logic in the ECU. It senses the reduction in pressure as you lift the clutch through the bite point and compensates the fuel load accordingly. I used to find it quite useful for moving off on greasy / slippery surfaces (wet grass or ice, etc).
  12. I used to run a Td5 110 CSW with a Jeremy Fearn Stage 2 tune (big intercooler, remap, etc) and that returned 26mpg typically (although I didn't always drive it with the lightest of right feet!). It's predecessor, a 300Tdi 110 CSW, generally returned 28mpg but wasn't anywhere near as quick. Both responded well to raised transfer box gearing, pulling comfortably with 1.2:1 LT230 and Borg Warner transfer boxes respectively. These greatly improved motorway cruising without costing too much flexibility for towing ~3 tonnes.
  13. Brake pedal needing a second bite could be a symptom of a wheel bearing being slightly out of adjustment.
  14. Good news that you have found the root cause and can fix it. Perhaps not clear from my post, but that is the part I was referring to. Unfortunately, I didn't have any photo's to hand and it's probably 10 years since last experiencing this failure. This wouldn't impact on the transfer box selecting high range, but the problem may be solved once you have truly selected neutral on the main box.
  15. Could be worth removing the lever turret as underneath this is a selector which fits on the end of the selector shaft (running forward in to the main box). This is locked to the selector shaft by a grub screw. I have had this come loose and give similar symptoms. Requires a bit of fiddling with an Allen Key to tighten.
  16. Despite it being at the budget end of the market, I've had a Clarke 120E Mk2 for the past 30 odd years. The thing has been worked hard and continues to deliver the goods with whatever I've thrown at it - LR chassis, car repairs & even the odd bit of fabrication up to 8mm plate. Always been run with bottled gas and proved easy to get a good quality weld. Only real drawback has been the thermal cut out kicking in for sustained heavy duty welding (but I bought it primarily for LR work and that hasn't been a problem). Torch has required complete replacement once in all the time I've owned it, tips & shrouds come under consumables. Parts have been easy to obtain and not expensive. Might consider a Euro torch next time it comes up for replacement. The earth clamp was upgraded early in its life. Also has been easy to convert for occasional aluminium welding - wire, liner, tip & small bottled gas.
  17. Nice project. Should be an interesting drive when complete. On the transmission side, I note you are opting for Compushift. Have you considered Microsquirt as the TCU? It is claimed to work in tandem with Megasquirt to retard the ignition during full power shifts, and may help protect the transmission. Although preconfigured to support US autoboxes, the principle of operation is the same for electronic control of the ZF 4HP22/24 - there is a reasonable amount of information on the forum about supporting 4HP22/24 & Megashift, pin outs, solenoid operation, etc. The flip side with Compushift is that the job has been done numerous times before and you won't incur any real development / debugging time.
  18. Factory RRC fit came with a torque convertor housing to engine adapter plate. Back end fitted with an adaptor to a LT230.
  19. Tinning the ends of the wires and screw in to the block would improve long term reliability.
  20. When "adding it as an extra layer for initial heat ...", I would add it downstream of the original matrix so that warmed air doesn't flow over the heatsink of a cold matrix.
  21. Yes, don't have any part number though. I went in to my local motor factor and asked the lad at the counter. He bought out several bags of 10 in different sizes and I chose the sizes needed for the job (replacing perished boots on the suspension of an old Jaguar that had been standing too long). Weren't expensive.
  22. One-tonne Series LWB were fitted with a lower high range transfer gear. Could the box have been swapped at some point or might it be a One-tonne LWB (OP doesn't state vehicle)?
  23. I'd check for a good earth on the trailer wiring itself, through to the 7 pin plug.
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