DaveSIIA
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Posts posted by DaveSIIA
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You would be better off rebuilding the box you have with new synchro rings & seals than messing around swapping parts between the Defender & Disco boxes. The swap will involve a major strip & rebuild, so might as well do the job properly, with known good parts.
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Sounds like the 3rd / 4th gear synchromesh hub has failed in some way. It is possible to lift the cab floor to gain access to the top of the gearbox and remove the top cover for a peek inside. Does the gear lever move to the correct positions to select 3rd or 4th?
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On 2/26/2021 at 8:47 AM, western said:
Why would the importer remove a factory fitted towbar, I reckon the import company should fix it or at least compensate you for the damage caused.
I agree with Western on this. Was the vehicle yours before it was imported or did you buy it from the importer as is (inc tow bar problem)?
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20 hours ago, biffer4240 said:
yes that is one way but running with large bump stops so thort it would be easier to try and find new springs rather than welding the newly sprayed chassis
The larger bump stops will also limit compression of the springs. Only way is to accept an increased ride height.
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You run the risk of the shorter springs of the same rate becoming coil-bound on compression. Would it not be better to raise the spring hangers on the chassis if you want to retain the upper platform height?
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Out of interest, does the converse hold true i.e. if the intake temperature raises by 100°C at a boost ratio of 2 and there is no intercooler, would the EGT rise by 200°C?
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Forget the LR conversion, this is the "Apocalypse Grade" camper
https://www.businessinsider.com/custom-rv-expedition-camper-van-traveling-australia-slrv-2019-12
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Interesting conversion, but I wonder what the GVW comes to - probably enough to max out the ratings of a pair of 110 axles? The long wheelbase and rear overhang will curtail much in the way of off-road exploration, sufficient that it might have been better built on a 4x4 commercial chassis.
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49 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:
Something like this
The thread on that looks a bit short to work with the high-low link. Work out how much extension you need and make a complete linkage out of M8 threaded rod or run some threads on 8mm bar. Keep the solution simple.
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1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said:
If it were me I'd be looking to modify the lever assy to put the lever in the same place as the hole in the rubber. I wouldn't want to be modifying the aperture because you can't finish it nicely then.
Mo
I would second this approach and as far as possible stick with off the shelf trim parts. How much further forward will the high-low / diff lock selector need to be to put it in a "standard position"?
If there isn't enough length in the rod for the high-low selector, a suitable one could be made from threaded rod. The bottom end of the diff lock actuator possibly could be extended with a welded on tab.
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
Yes, way cheaper no more aluminium to the scrappies for me think I'll just convert my alloy scrap into useable billets who knows what I'll need in the future regards Stephen
How viable would it be for you to have cast the cover and machined to finish? Would save turning a billet in to swarf and no doubt back to a billet.
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
I'm surprised by this as it's been part of the IVA for several years. I guess either your VW's are old enough to not have this feature or there is some kind of exemption.
Mike
62 & 63 plates on the vehicles. Just accepted that this is the way they have been from new and never had to look at IVA reg's - interesting. On both vehicles, the rear fog will work with side lights illuminated (bearing in mind that the front fogs will illuminate on side lights and by default will be on before the rear fog illuminates).
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Perfectly feasible. Our VW's (car & van) are wired so that the front comes on first and the rear at the second switch position. Rear has indicator light on the dash. Neither vehicle extinguishes the rear fog light when headlights are turned off.
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If the shared earth is the only path to earth then yes 12V will feed back through the circuit to the next earth. Does the high level brake light operate normally when the shared earth is connected? If not, there will be a poor path to earth somewhere between the door frame and body (needs to be better than just the hinges).
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Were the brakes working properly last time you used the vehicle?
I would start with a critical visual inspection of master cylinder, lines & slave cylinders. Unlikely to find any leaks otherwise the fluid level in the reservoir would have dropped. Next step would be to bleed through every cylinder to ensure there is no air trapped in the system. Finally, establish that the brake pedal holds pressure and doesn't sink under load - include light load as well as heavy to exercise the seals.
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3 hours ago, Daan said:
As a question, how much feasible is doing what you did in a usual Eurobox style car? I can entertain the idea of going with my family, but using the landy isn't really going to work I think. We would use local accommodation, rather than sleeping in the car. We are also limited to school holidays, which would make the before mentioned traffic problem worse.
Daan
Entirely feasible so long as you don't plan on taking the car too far off road - some of the forests have tracks you can access, and don't require serious ground clearance / gradient capability.
There's a lot more to the Highlands than NC500 (although it does pass through some scenic countryside). A bit of careful planning and the crowds can be avoided, especially if you can go once the Scottish schools are back.
Plenty of decent accommodation available. I was up there at the end of September for a couple of weeks cycling. Bunkhouses were very quiet, offered single occupancy rooms en-suite and most had a pub / restaurant within easy distance.
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Remembered to check mine - Wipac that were installed around 2010; No metal cage around the bulb, but the reflector has a vertical ribbed pattern to focus the beam. The metal cage may be linked to the design of reflector.
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I'll second Night Breakers, especially in conjunction with good quality wiring delivering a healthy voltage to the bulbs.
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10 hours ago, Snagger said:
I was judging off the front wing being uncut under the spats, which makes me suspect articulation is very limited. Certainly, the stiffer and lower suspension this will need will have less flex than a standard Defender, so it’s ability off road is compromised, even if it’s good on a comp safari track.
Computer generated model looks to be independent suspension all round. Compromise has probably been biased more towards on-road & handling than serious off-road capability. I'm sure there are other vehicles to consider in the £200K+ price bracket if serious off-road capability is foremost.
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Remote servo on the wing. The pipes above it appear to have been bridged to complete the brake circuit. There should also be a vacuum feed between the servo and inlet manifold.
Overhaul kits are available for the remote servo from classic car parts suppliers.
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The right answer is to join GLASS, and benefit from / contribute to their database of lanes.
However, Cumbria County Council have a wealth of information on their website. The Hierarchy of Trails Routes page (https://www.cumbria.gov.uk/roads-transport/public-transport-road-safety/countryside-access/hotr/hierarchy_of_trails_routes.asp) identifies vehicular rights of way graded by sustainability. Their Definitive Map page (https://www.cumbria.gov.uk/roads-transport/public-transport-road-safety/countryside-access/Definitive_Map/Definitive_Map.asp) shows Rights of Way by classification, but note the caveat that the page is for illustrative purposes only.
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Did you experience the midges?
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Not Jag specific experience, but worked for a similar issue on a Renault. Disconnect the battery and short the cables together for ~30 minutes, forcing a reset of the ECU's. Found it more effective than just unplugging the ECU.
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Can also recommend
- Sandwood Bay
- Cape Wrath
- Applecross
- Inverewe Gardens
- Hill walking in Torridon
- Other hills further up the west coast
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Front driveshaft not sticking out far enough...
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Does the circlip face of the new drive flange sit at the same distance off the hub face as the old drive member i.e. thickness?