DaveSIIA

Excellent tool. Does what it says on the tin. Thanks Worth noting that it needs Microsoft .NET 2.0 installed on the PC to run (as I found out the hard way). Free download from MS for those that need it.

Passenger side front on my 110 was doing the same earlier this week. Wheel bearings fine, swivel bearings seemed ok. Found it to be the lower swivel bearing - got someone to wind the steering from lock to lock and spotted odd movement at the ball. Roller cage had broken and the rollers were doing their own thing. If yours has gone the same, then just over £15 for bearings, seals, gaskets, grease, etc and ~3 hours to strip, replace and set up.

You could try 3P Paints in Stockport. They do the full LR colour range for Series vehicles. Bronze Green (in 3 shades) or Cream have been no problem for them. I've had good results for brush / roller / spray with their fast dry machine enamels.

I use the R380 reverse light switch for timing only. Probably not strong enough for heavyweight locking. Big advantage is that it springs easily into location when at the correct timing, and no slop when engaged.

I did all that a couple of years back (when it first happened) with my chipped & intercooled Td5 - made no real difference in the long term as I still had to sort warping & stud problems every 10-15K miles. Can't do any harm to mod' the standard manifold, but the 'Lara' tubular solution looks the way to go.

Yes, it was a JJF job and as Mark says 'it went like stink'. It reportedly made 198bhp and 320lbft. Very enjoyable to drive - smooth and responsive without having to rev the engine. It needed traction control (even in the dry) as the front wheels were prone to spinning when exiting a corner in third. However, I had to become a dab hand at replacing / fettling the exhaust manifold when it warped. It also sheared the studs that fastened it to the head on a regular basis - more fixing. The EGR was tried as per factory and also blanked - no difference. I concluded that reliably producing that level of power and torque was more than could be reasonably expected of the Td5. A trawl of the forums suggests that I may not have been alone with these types of problems. The final straw was when the exhaust side of the turbo housing cracked. I took a long hard look at the future for the whole vehicle and decided to move on. I'm currently driving my old 300Tdi (with the fuelling turned up a bit) while I make a decision on ordering a Ford engined 110. If I were you, consider a chipped & intercooled Td5, but at a lower level of tune. I didn't have an EGT gauge fitted, but would suggest it worthwhile.

I can vouch for that! No end of problems with manifolds on my 190bhp+ JJF tuned Td5 110. Over 2 years & 40K miles I became a dab hand at removing the turbo to replace the manifold and studs in the head. Unfortunately, enough was enough and it had to go before other large bills started presenting themselves - replacement turbo, potential for head gasket failure, etc. Fine in a competition vehicle (maybe), but not for an every day drive. While the Td5 was reasonably brisk to drive, I've gone back to my old 300Tdi 110 for a daily driver and am not disappointed. However, I do have an Overfinch 570HSi RRC to play with when I feel the need for a fix of speed.

Get a motorbike - it doesn't look so daft when you're dressed for the elements!

I had the same problems with Freestyles & 265/75's on my Td5 110 - super tanker turning circle 300Tdi 110 with 235/85's on Wolf rims is much more nimble

There's a rubber drain valve in the underside of the air inlet to the heater box, hidden under the passenger side wing. This may be blocked causing a pool of water, sloshing around into the heater matrix area. Easy to pull out and clean. On a 300Tdi Defender it is just aft of the washer bottle. If not this, then keep an eye on the coolant level. You could always join the two pipes as a temporary fix. Heater out is a bit of fiddly job - twisting everything so it will slot out & back.

Also, check the condition of the fins on the rad. Mine looked ok from the front, but had rotted out from the back. Similar symptoms and cured by a recore of the rad.

The simplest solution would be to use standard LR shims to move the flex plate towards the TC. These fit on the end of the crank and are used to set the drive plate height above the drive plate housing. They are available in thicknesses of 1.0 to 2.1mm in 0.1mm increments. From your measurements, 2.1mm would probably be close enough. Sorry, don't have part numbers to hand. I've recently re-engineered a Motor & Diesel Mazda conversion to a 4 speed auto in a RR. M&D advised to check for ~2mm clearance between the flex plate and the TC (with the TC pushed fully home) before bolting them together. Tony has hit the nail on the head! I trust you have worked out some sort of financial settlement, as the responsibility rests with the guy who designed and fitted the conversion. You shouldn't be out of pocket and using your time to put right the shortcomings of someone elses (professional?) work.

It'll be right at 0mph Alternatively, over read by ~15% (c.f. 205's) or ~23% (c.f. 7.50's). However, there are a range of speedo drive gears available for the LT230. One of them may reduce the error. IIRC, the Series speedo drive has a ratio of 2.2:1 at the gearbox end. It must be possible to work out the ratios for the various LT230 drive gears. Time for a bit of head scratching! BTW - I think the Series/RR speedo cable can be used with the LT230. Just discard the washer that fastens to the Series transfer case and clamp the end of the cable.

The guts of a 2 door RR speedo head can be fitted into the Series housing. Assuming you have a Series gearbox, use a RR (or SII/SIIA) speedo cable (screw fitting) and it all reads right for 205 tyres. Unfortunately, it will under read by ~10% if you are on 7.50's.

Still got some on Disco rims in the back of the garage. Used to be a regular fitment on the IIA - could smell the rubber melting after a fast motorway run on a hot day. Probably a bit to scary to use on the 110.

I've had a 88" IIA running a 2.25D with a Holset H1 turbo since the mid-90's. It was modified from a kit (from TB Turbos in Lancaster) which was designed for a 2.5NAD. At 5 psi boost, the engine has survived 35K miles. I've had only one piston failure (early on) due to a stuck waste gate and 13psi boost! Performance is ok, but there are easier ways to get improved performance - 2.5NAD, 2.5TD, 200/300Tdi - all of which will be more reliable and overall lower cost if you have to refurbish an old 2.25D first! Bottom line is I wouldn't bother with a turbo on the 2.25D these days.

General Grabber AT2's on my Td5 110. They hold the road well in wet or dry, and manage ok on many of the lanes in the Peak District. Only got 20K miles on them so far, but wearing well.

My 110CSW has Sempal kits in all four doors. They fit comfortably within the standard door trim, and can be linked in to the factory alarm system for automatic closing of the windows when the alarm is set.

And was it still locked after the scrotes had left, having nicked your wheels, tyres and stereo? I'd say it was up to your 'specialist' to sort it - their business, their secure compound, their responsibility!

Les, Thanks for the info, it's what I like to hear. I have new clutch plate & thrust bearing for the SIII. The fork is in good nick. Just being a tight wad for a complete clutch in a vehicle which will do less than 3000 miles a year. Dave

Swapping a 2.5NA Diesel into a SIII to replace the 2.25 Petrol engine. I have several low mileage, good order Defender clutch covers (FTC575) but don't have a SIII item (576557) to hand. Can the later Defender clutch cover be used in place of the SIII item? TIA Dave

Excellent, clear write up for a not too uncommon problem.

I took off 125 thou and ended up with about 9.5:1. Worth doing a quick calculation to determine how much the clearance volume needs to be reduced.

The set screw that holds the drum to the hub flange should fit the threaded hole. Not much movement is needed to break the grip of a drum rusted to the hub.

Thanks for the replies. I was fairly certain that there shouldn't be anything special about fitting the manifold. Oops, I must have been spotted driving in my normal style! It doesn't need to be thrashed too hard as the torque delivers a lot of the performance boost, but the whole exhaust side must get fairly warm. The shrouding round the oil pressure switch wire looks like it has been a bit warm at times. The top stud on #1 sheared about 18 months ago. The exhaust manifold was warped when I removed it, so I milled out all the webs between the ports - nothing to lose. The manifold came true (checked on a face plate and within 0.005"). On that occasion, the manifold fitted straight back onto the studs. It has probably done 30K miles since, so would have been heat cycled a few times. Is it possible there is some sort of stress relief process happening through the heat cycles? BTW - in the light of discussions on other forums about this problem, I have decided to remove the studs on cylinders #1 & #5. M8x30 Cap Heads (there wasn't quite enough depth to go to M8x40) have been fitted in their place. This gives much deeper engagement into the head, and hopefully may reduce the likelihood of the studs pulling out.