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DaveSIIA

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Everything posted by DaveSIIA

  1. It's worth checking the simple things first before assuming the steering box is damaged. Even with Sumo Bars, could the the tracking have been knocked out? Also check the new drop arm is secure on the tapered splines of the steering shaft - could it have 'settled' and then been knocked round a spline or two? I've had this happen to me with a RRC where the nut wasn't fully torqued. Twisting (but not breaking) a shaft is one thing. Using a known defective component on a road going vehicle carries some responsibility.
  2. Sorry, should have phrased the reply better - brain probably in neutral after a numbing week. 300Tdi Defender has a cable drive speedo. The fitting on the Disco transfer box will be the same, once the electronic transducer is removed. Defender speedo cable will fit (with the addition of the retaining clamp).
  3. 300Tdi speedo is mechanical drive - cable from rear end of the transfer box - so should be the same whether Disco or Defender transfer box.
  4. IIRC, the feed from the starter cancels the glow plugs once the engine starts to crank.
  5. Pump replacement isn't difficult. The basic sequence is: Drain oil Stand box vertical Unbolt the bellhousing Lift end plate & pump assembly from casing Check for any other damage Fit new end plate & pump assembly etc Fit torque converter to box before installing to engine The pump from the 3.5 RRC should be the same and hence work correctly. Would be worth taking the pump of the 3.5 box first so that you know what is inside before attacking your autobox.
  6. Unfortunately, yes. Correct technique is to engage the torque converter with the auto box first and then fit the pair to the engine, before bolting the T/C to the flex plate.
  7. Did you remove the pipes and union to check each one individually? Also, is the correct style thermostat fitted? Ones without the disc below the spring make it far more difficult to bleed air from the system. IIRC, there should be a small hole through the main disc of the thermostat, with a little plastic float rattling around. This should be at the twelve o'clock (top) position.
  8. I had a similar problem with a 300Tdi Defender a few years back. The problem lay with the bleed hoses from the thermostat housing and top of the radiator to the expansion tank. The circular disc shaped union just below the expansion tank had blocked so that neither the head or radiator would self bleed. The hoses were also pretty choked. A simple check is to take the cap off the expansion tank when everything is cold and the coolant filled to the correct level. If you raise the engine revs to 2000 - 2500 rpm then the thermostat will be closed and coolant should flow through the engine, through the heater matrix and back throught the bleed hoses to the expansion tank. The return flow should be evident under the surface of the coolant in the tank. No flow and there will be a good chance that something is blocked. This test only works with a cold engine as the thermostat needs to be closed. It's not a big job to clear out the hoses. While you are at it, I would change the circular disc shaped union as they are renown for splitting at the most inappropriate moment!
  9. R380 box is not a problem to overhaul. The overhaul manual is available for download on the net. Parts and complete overhaul kits are available from several suppliers (including Ashcrofts). You will need a puller to remove the collar at the back end of the mainshaft, and a simple stand is useful to keep the box nose up while assembling & setting up. The most important thing is to take your time and pay attention to detail. Setting up the end float on the layshaft and mainshaft requires selectable shims which may need to be ordered in at the correct size.
  10. My 300Tdi 110 doesn't seem to run as well on supermarket own brand fuels compared to Esso/Shell/BP. The loss is typically 10-15% in terms of MPG and it is noticably sluggish at the top end. I have records of (most) fuel purchases going back over the past 300K miles and there is a definite trend. There is also a consistent slight reduction of MPG during winter months, possibly due to anti-waxing additives. Journey patterns are fairly regular, with frequent long distance motorway / fast A road runs that use two tank fulls for the return journey.
  11. Had a similar problem with my Jag. Turned out to be part of the actuator mechanism sticking so that a switch sent the wrong signal back to the lock/alarm ECU. Has this problem only occured during periods of very low temperature & freezing, or at other times? Could be damp/condensation on the mechanism or in a switch.
  12. I would start by taking some voltage measurements before throwing more money at batteries, alternators or starter motors. A cheap multimeter will do. Naturally, the engine should be running. Voltage across the alternator - output terminal to case or engine block & output terminal to chassis Voltage across the battery terminals Repeat the above under no load and under full load (lights on, etc) Also measure the voltage directly at the battery terminal posts (not cable clamps) while cranking There should be a good 13.5V or more across the battery, and similar across the alternator while charging (14 - 14.5V with some types of alternator). If that is fine, then it is time to look for voltage drops while cranking (may require 2V or 200mV scale) Negative battery terminal post to engine block Positive battery terminal post to battery terminal on the starter solenoid These tests highlight poor connections if there is more than a few hundred millivolts in either. It is then a matter of probing across each of the joints in the suspect lead - battery post to clamp; clamp to cable; etc. It is quite feasible that the starter motor is past its best and might benefit from refurbishment. However, the 200/300 Tdi starter motor is a direct replacement for the S3 type and spins the engine more freely without hammering the battery - it worked a treat for my 2.25 diesel.
  13. There are two types - tubed (ANR5593) or tubeless (ANR4583). I would go for the tubeless version and (obviously) tubeless tyres.
  14. A very useful tool. Could you add data for the Borg Warner transfer box?
  15. Use the high/low lever assembly and connecting rod off the 4HP22 auto box (bottom picture above). This will put the control in the same location as for the R380. The Borg Warner is a good choice in a 110 as it eliminates the tendency to spin the front wheels during up hill starts in the wet, offers a slightly higher drive ratio and quieter cruising. Fitted one to mine ~50K miles ago and wouldn't change back.
  16. A "PC2-05-4 BMW Round Pin ISO adapter" from http://www.nexxia.co.uk would do the job.
  17. 235/85R16 is a standard size for a Defender. Based on nominal dimensions, 235/85 are 2mm larger in diameter than 265/75 - nothing in comparison to the 31.6" (~800mm) diameter. There will be more variation between tyre types than between these two sizes. I'd be looking to ensure any replacement wheels/tyre are suited to the rated axle weights of the vehicle. Disco alloys may not be adequate for a 130.
  18. Could be a fuel thing. However, a few questions to help diagnose the cause: Did the engine run fine immediately after you completed the conversion, or has it always hunted at with the throttle wide open? Have you done any work recently which may have caused this problem? Does it hunt in all gears or just one (top)? If in top gear, at what speed does the hunting start? Are you running standard Series gearing or have you installed Disco/RR diff's and/or overdrive? If the hunting has started recently (and the engine ran fine previously) then it could be dirt picked up in to the filter/lift pump. If it has always done this and happens at 65-70mph on standard Series gearing, then I would be looking at the engine reaching its governed maximum rpm. Also worth looking at the fuel lines to/from the tank to make sure they haven't been damaged/kinked/blocked
  19. The engine should be turning ~3300rpm at 74mph in 5th. Changing to a 1.2 transfer ratio should drop this to ~2800rpm, while still offering a (theoretical) rev limited top speed of ~125mph. The 1.003 transfer ratio would drop the engine revs even further (~2350rpm) and most likely result in a vehicle that requires some rowing on the gear lever to make sensible progress. I used to run a Jeremy Fearn Stage 2 chipped & intercooled Td5 110 CSW on 265/75R16's, with a 1.2 transfer box. It was quite happy cruising at high motorway speeds without sounding fussed or strained, yet remained driveable in traffic down to 30mph in 5th. Also, no problems with towing heavy trailers. The 1.2 transfer ratio seemed to suit the available power, vehicle top speed and engine rev range.
  20. Bound to be something pin compatible and will do the job from Maplin or RS.
  21. Could well be that the Stage 2 tune cranks out too much torque for the auto box (ZF 4HP22EH) to handle reliably. No doubt a solution could be found, such as a beefed up box using 4HP24 internals. Much depends on how much you want that level of tune and are prepared to pay for the ancillaries to work reliably.
  22. Propshafts off; disconnect wiring, linkages, etc; remove gear levers; remove clutch slave cylinder; remove gearbox crossmember. Allow a longish day or spread the job over two days. Whether you split the transfer box off the main gearbox and remove separately depends on what facilities / lifting tackle you have - both are heavy lumps. Don't forget to fit a new clutch (including a release arm & bearing if NAD/TD/Tdi) while you are at it.
  23. Sort out the bearing tracks first. Clean the gasket faces on the transfer box and bearing carrier. Assemble bits in to transfer box and lightly hold the bearing carrier in place (a couple of bolts could act as guides to locate) - is there a gap between the bearing carrier and mating face on the transfer box? If so, this will be the amount of preload you will apply to the bearings. IIRC, liquid gaskets were introduced from the 300Tdi onward (mid 1994). Gaskets can be cut from cardboard (cereal packet). Apply a reasonable coating of general purpose grease to both faces and assemble as normal. This should remain leak free for some considerable time, and certainly long enough to source some genuine articles.
  24. Bearings should be replaced as complete assemblies i.e. races included. I would fit the new races and recheck the endfloat of the gear. There should be a selective shim to correct this.
  25. The speedometer mechanism from a 2 door RRC can be fitted in to the housing for a Series IIA - the route I took when fitting 3.54 diff's to my IIA. The drive gear in the LT230 transfer box would be red if running 205R16 tyres or blue if 235/85R16 or 7.50R16. Cable would be from a 2 door RRC. There is a range of drive gears for the transfer box, so it could be worth checking the speedo accuracy against a GPS before working out which gear is closest.
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