Simon Smith

I cut mine out and made stainless steel ones out of offcuts from the refrigeration guys next door. No problem mig welding stainless to mild, but not sure if it will corrode with two different steels.

Buy two winches. Fit one to the bumper and make a crane with the other one so you have a new toy to play with.

In my opinion, if most of the oil was in the air filter then she's breathing too much, If it's in the turbo and intercooler but not the air filter then it's the turbo or the oil drain. I would do a leakdown or compression test first if it's breathing excessively. The breather valve is just an empty plastic box with a spring and diaphragm in the top, they do let a little oil past but not enough to worry about, I swapped mine for a shiny Allisport one and have to say it doesn't seem to let any oil through at all.

I seem to remember the series axle UJs are the same as the propshaft ones but without the rubber seals.

On my previous 110 I did the same, all round discs work just fine on a drum master cylinder.

My Valeo of about 10 years old failed last weekend. Same symptoms of getting heavier until you couldn't depress the pedal and had to start in gear. Looks pretty much identical to the one in the original post, hardly any wear either.

Common on alloy components in garden machinery. They tend to use self tapping bolts for almost everything now, the most common ones look like normal bolts but are slightly triangular in cross section.

My old Defenders lift handles were far better than the **** plastic push buttons on this one. Especially every time there's a heavy frost and I can't get in the damned thing!

Mine had the same push-on release-off switch, Station wagon originally registered to an army colonel and the hair in it indicated it carried the regimental goat! I presumed it originally worked an alternative horn or similar.

Too small a leak to worry about, but I would say transfer box seal. Doesn't the 2.2 have a dry coupling section between gearbox and transfer box?

I half filled mine with Jizer, sloshed it about for a while, emptied it and flushed thoroughly with water. Then I put the breather into a catch tank so it didn't get filled with oil again.

I wonder who that was??? 😂

My caps always fall off. Keep putting them back on but I don't know why I bother.

Most of it will be EP90 from the swivel mixed with a little grease from the bearings. I've never lost enough to worry about despite the mess. Just top up the swivel with EP. Cured mine permanently by fitting HD drive members.

I did think BSF, but didn't have one to hand, could have pinched one out of my old 2 stroke Atco mower I suppose. Trust LR to use something few people will have.

200tdi 110 county. Big intercooler, tweaked pump janspeed exhaust and a steel tube snorkel. I drive fairly quickly and get around 28mpg running around to work etc and 30 on a decent run.

Mine does that sometimes. Always cured by tightening the belt, so I would suspect belt, worn pulleys or pump.

Resurrecting an old topic. Did anyone ever find what thread the hole in the shaft is? Just changed the drive members to HD ones, due to being fed up with the rubber caps always leaking, one shaft was tight so I went to the bolt box. Conclusion was they are 7/16" something, but not UNF or UNC, though UNF does screw in about 3 threads which was enough. I suppose being a LandRover they could be BSF or even Cycle thread.

Thanks. I'll have to wait for it to arrive before I know if I need etch primer or not. Insurance are paying me to spray the wing and the garage next door to fit it. A lot more convenient for me and I get a hire car too.

When repairing a Range Rover classic some years ago, I took the heater vents out of the dash and there was a sticker with the radio code attached. Looked like factory original too as it had the logo on it.

Most replacement body panels come with a black coating on them. Is it necessary to remove this and etch the bare aluminium before priming and painting, or can it just be rubbed down and then primed. I have done the latter successfully on steel panels which have then lasted for years but not sure if it will stay stuck on alloy.

The KA was very bent.bumper, wing, bonnet, drive shaft, chassis member, even the engine must have been damaged as the oil was running out.

Mine was going brittle and showing signs of cracking after about 5 years. Got damaged in an accident a few weeks back and going back to aluminium.

The HD bumper is bent. LH chassis leg bent back at the bumper mount. Pushed the RH wing across a few mm which broke the plastic outer wing where it bolts to the bulkhead (aluminium one this time)

So my white Defender with all LED lighting is apparently invisible. I'm always having people pull out in front of me, including these two in the last fortnight. Seriously thinking of fitting more led strips behind the grill so it glows white. Or maybe just make it look like the Coca Cola truck! Accident 13-02-18 edit.wmv Deathwish 23-02-18 edit.wmv