Simon Smith

Looks like under the 2018 MOT changes, anything other than Halogen in a Halogen headlamp will be a fail. I fitted the "blue box" LED headlamps and are highly impressed with both brightness and beam pattern compared to the crystals I had before.

Fitted a pair to my 110 yesterday. Can't fault the strength and ease of fitting. Yes the powdercoat doesn't look that thick, but after a few trips to Morrison's they will probably be pretty battered anyway.

I know it's an old topic, but I did mine today. Cut the old one up to get it out and used the YRM with separate brackets to replace it. Removed the screws along the back edge of the middle row floor, they get in the way. Then with the sills off I could thump it through under the right hand sill channel with a soft mallet, if you come from the left side you won't get it under the fuel pipes because of the angle. Had to jack the sill about 2mm to get it in the last bit, but didn't need to unbolt the body as there was enough flex. then bolt the brackets on and it's done. And it took an awful lot longer to do than to explain, and you will need lots of pound coins for the swear box!

I found a large washer with a hole only slightly smaller than the OD of the plug and welded it on carefully keeping the square hole clear. Been like it for about 10 years and has never leaked and I never put any sealant on it. Could wind it right through before.

We use them on lawnmowers and garden tractors every day. I use the drain bung on the Landy, but I reckon you would get as much oil out with the pump if not more, as the drain is on the side of the sump, not the bottom.

Just used the Insa Turbo's in snow and ice for the first time, and I have to say in icy conditions they seem much better than the BFG's I had before. Do find them very slightly noisier, but not unacceptable.

I have one, if you hold the centre section it changes the rotary motion to alternate LH / RH rotation. They work very well.

Briggs and Stratton used to fit these to some lawnmower engines, they rewind themselves by acting as the engine brake when you stop the machine. They are far more powerful than the electric starter motors and the engines started much easier. Not sure why they discontinued them.

I agree, Turner are the people to talk to.

I never had the problem using a pressure bleeder, I don't think it has enough pressure to move the piston.

Triumph Spitfire had the same PDWA valve, and the operation I described above is exactly what the manual tells you to do.

The way I did it on my old 110 may not be correct but it worked, needs two people. I opened a bleed nipple and bled that brake with the ignition on so the light was on. Then I closed that nipple and oened a nipple on the other circuit, slowly press the pedal until the light goes out, then without moving the pedal close off the bleed nipple. Worked for me.

I pretty much agree with everything everyone has said. I used to get all the mags when I first switched from kit cars to LRs, which would have been around 1986-87. Every now and then a new one would appear and there seemed to be a lot of competition on who could produce the best technical articles and the best adventure storys etc. I stopped buying them quite a few years ago when they switched to being "bolt on bling" catalogues. I have occasionally picked one up when bored, but to be honest the boredom relief is usually very short lived.

My 1992 200Tdi has done this ever since I've owned it, so for well over ten years I have been chasing the fault around without pinning it down. It's fine for months on end, then starts behaving like the battery is flat, you can strip and clean earths and replace as many parts as you like and it makes no difference. Then suddenly one day it will spin over perfectly and behave itself for months on end again. I have concluded it's just a moody bitch and when it's misbehaving I try to park on a hill.

Hire a commercial building dryer, they are industrial dehumidifiers and much more powerful than any of the domestic ones on the market. We used to make the Tremdri ones at the last place I worked.

Most likely the master cylinder is leaking internally, so you won't lose any fluid. New ones are not that expensive so I don't bother replacing the seals.

As above, found this several times on different vehicles.

My auto one doesn't work on regular sunshine, so I doubt it will for an eclipse.

I was told a #13 minimum welding glass, can't remember what mine is, but using it didn't do any harm.

It was very painful for an hour or so, but soon felt no different, just looked a bit odd until they changed it. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ukemxiboc3n2s65/2015-02-22%2011.11.55.jpg?dl=0

I used to use the nut and bolt method, but since owning a rivnut gun I can't work out why I didn't get one before.

Got loads of those screws and two plates in my right leg from a 70's bike accident when I was told I would never walk again. I also have some screws and a bent plate from when I fell over before the leg had mended. I can confirm that they don't set off the metal detectors at airports, though not sure why.

Radio gets it's feed from aux terminal on ign switch, stop solenoid gets it's feed from the ign terminal on the ignition switch. If everything else worked my money is on the ignition switch or the main feed to it from the fusebox. First thing I would check is the wiring round the steering column and the multi plug.

Make sure you have good earths on the black. But it also sounds like you might have the sidelight and brakelight wiring swapped over. The brake should be very bright and the sidelight a lot less. With LEDs wired with it swapped over you won't see the brake lights with the sidelights on.

You don't always need an IVA or SVA for a kit or customised car, or at least you didn't unless the rules have changed again. If the unaltered chassis or structural shell and running gear was used you could change some body parts, including the lights no problem at all. The EEC have tried unsuccessfully to ban customisation, but as far as I am aware the UK government said no. Just a thought, if you can't legally replace your H4 units with LED's because it wasn't buil;t with them. The same rule would apply to changing sealed beams on a commercial variant to H4, as they also have different E numbers and were not originally approved for that vehicle. Minefield anyone? We sometimes have to make tractors road legal at work for the water company, and get them registered, there is no restriction whatever on whose lights we fit as long as they are E marked and conform to curent regs, we need no IVA, just a "certificate of newness" from the manufacturer or importer. Though to be fair it is a hell of a lot easier to get an Agri vehicle registered than it is a car. However I have found when dealing with any of the authorities that 90% of their staff don't know the rules themselves and always interpret them differently, which doesn't help at all.