davek0974

The preload on the swivel is set with the big swivel seal removed.

Electrical wiring and connectors??? How on earth are they going to do that one? Unplug every one? Sounds like a recipe for massive electrical problems to me. My SRS light has never come on, how do I falt find that? It's not the bulb.

Oh man, change the font please, I can't read a word of that

.5mm seems quite bad. AFIK it all depends on valve stand-down and piston stand-proud, if these values go out of spec then you get valves hitting pistons etc. I'm sure someone will be able to offer more info.

Just done this to mine, have your calipers got three nipples each? If so the inner two are bled together first then the outer one on its own. I had to re bleed mine after a day to get a pedal.

Same as mine was, take dash binnacle off and fit bulb, previous seller had pulled bulb because it was stuck on which is mot fail, and annoying. Easy to sell if not working unless buyer knows what happens when key is turned. It took me a while to figure out and in the end I bought another dash unit to give me loads of spare bulbs, couldn't find them in shops as they are small LEDs. Your next post here will be "what to do if ABS light stays on?" Turns out it was just sensors needed reseating and the ecu resetting.

All done and back on her wheels again:) http://www.davekearley.co.uk/LinkPics/disc1.jpg Thanks to all who offered advice

All finished and working, flexi problem turned out to be dodgy thread, cleaned it up and it went back nicely. Need to re-bleed and check for leaks tomorrow but other than that it's all back together at last. Last stumbling block was paddocks idea to put the wrong brake pad fitting kit in the order, took two ours but I managed to find some locally.

Yes it turns easy and it screwed back into the old flexi very easy too, I'm baffled but will try again tonight on other side.

Yes the flexi fits the new metric fittings, I will try again tomorrow but we did try several times tonight, it screwed back into the old pipe easy. The metric fittings did not want to screw into the old pipe which is what made me think the fittings were different. Its either M10x1 or 3/8x24, close but not the same.

Right I've got the first fitting undone, hammer on one side and hit the other side with another hammer seems to have helped. Now the next problem pops up and kicks me in the 'nads - the new flexi does not match the thread on the feed pipe!!! The part is ANR1765 which appears correct so what is wrong????

I could cut and fit but I can't flare steel pipe so it means running new pipe all the way back to the abs modulator which is easy on one side. But hard on the other.

All fitted, everything lines up nicely. Last snag is that I can't get the feed pipe to flexi pipe joint undone, the one on the inner wing, any secrets or tips?

Yes, too big but asthe old and new bolts both fit the axle, that's to be expected. I have now found that the holes in the calipers are imperial and the bolts are metric and it's common to just open them out with a 12mm drill, it's only about .5 mm difference but enough to stop the bolts fitting.

The bolts are new and did not come in the kit, they do fit the threads in the axle hub though but are larger than the holes in the calipers.

Hi all, while rebuilding my front hubs I want to do an upgrade from single to vented discs, I got the vented disc kit from paddocks and also the calipers RTC6776/7 for vented discs but the bolt holes on the calipers are too small for the mounting bolts. Is the wrong caliper set? Is it ok to drill the holes out? Anyone else done this? It's a D1 1994 300tdi Dave

The starting point is not totally unknown, it's "factory standard", what that is is generally irrelevant, I can see where you are coming from but I feel you are trying to performance tune a tractor:) What mostly happens is that it is tried at standard, and for this you really must have the two pins, then if a little tweak is felt needed a slightly smaller pin is inserted into the pump thereby giving some slack, the pump is then locked up while holding the shaft clockwise against the slack pin. This will give a repeatable amount of advance. If you have smoke, check the belt timing carefuly regarding the camshaft, it has been known they will run a tooth out but give smoke and poor performance, all needs to be perfect on a tdi.

Have you tried factory standard? I.e. Both pins in, camshaft centred and pump set?? Just asking

Dont know if anybody does, normally just stuff the pins in flywheel and pump, slap the belt on and away they go, sometimes a little bit of advance helps but without some data, a clamp on strobe, calibrated crank pulley and a vernier pump pulley surely your just pissing in the wind?

My 1994 300tdi definately let's you know when she is working, very verbal engine

The crank runs at twice the speed of the fip, so a 1 degree advance at the fip = 2 degrees of advance at the crank. Without measuring pulleys I cant say what the adjustment made is in degrees, but as a rough guess, each mm of crank pulley movement is approx 0.9 degrees if my memory serves correct that the pulley is around 5" diameter If you over do the tweaks, it will start knocking badly or lose all power so if it's running well then you should be ok.

They sometimes need and will benefit from manual tuning of the timing, they do not always run well at the factory point and may need a little advance or retard to get the best. It's a Hamelin you can't tweak them with a strobe light like you can on a series petrol lump, my one always worked best when tweaked a little.

They sometimes need and will benefit from manual tuning of the timing, they do not always run well at the factory point and may need a little advance or retard to get the best. It's a Hamelin you can't tweak them with a strobe light like you can on a series petrol lump, my one always worked best when tweaked a little.

I had the same problem recently, lots of drips. I fitted a recon box, that failed on first use as the power assistance was unbalance L/R, I fitted the replacement recon box, that lasted three weeks and started leaking again in the same place, I then stumped up and fitted a brand new box from Adwest and that has been great so far. The box was £275 which was about £100 more than the recon one but worth it in the end. I would not bother trying to repair. Dave BTW if it's really bad, it will likely fail the mot. I use my disco daily so I didnt want to risk it blowing it's fluid on the way to work etc and wrecking the pump too.

Window seals and sunroof seals. I fitted a new floor in mine due it rust, the mat was soaked. Also seal around the fuel tank cover. I stripped the whole interior out and watched for weeks then sealed up where itwas getting in, it's a pain but I'm nearly there now, just the two rubbers on the rear side windows. Dave