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About mayur

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  • Location
    Wembley, London

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  • Interests
    car and flying :P
  1. Put me on the list if my vnt setup goes south since I made it it probilly will
  2. hi does anyone have the wiring diagram for a thermo top V form the Disco 3 or 4 Thanks
  3. the 1 wire have volts 0-5 normaly quite low when checking on idle the only diffence between 1 and 3 wires is the two extra wires are for the lambda heater (making more accurate reading faster and less wear) the 4 wire sensors has 2 wires for the lambda heater (as the 3wire) but uses one wire as a 12v input (and refence voltage) giving a range of 0-12v more accurate and the reason for calling them wideband sensors theres are 6 wire lambda possibly might find these on the new discos (i know you find them on VWs) where it also give the EGT
  4. hmmm interesting problem try opening the boost controller on the top of the pump (DONT FORGET TO MARK THE DIAPHRAGM POSITION ) and clean any oil on it and oil that might be stuck in the pipe.
  5. i would like to say that the 3 wire lambda isnt very accurate as it only generates a voltage of 0-5 so not much to bother about
  6. if your v8 is fuel injected it has a lamdba sensor(o2) and most manufactures recommend ( if i remember correctly ) every 60,000 miles but no one ever changes them until they go terribly wrong. the ECU looks for changes in the lambda, which will normally happen but overtime due to exhaust temp and impure burning clogging them up the variations are less making them less effective, look at you lambda if it only has one or three wires to it dont worrie about changing it, if it has four it sometimes can make a difference but not normally noticeable as the lambda for emmissions not the smooth running of the engine
  7. i got mine from camskill and they are GREAT if you can afford it get it ;D
  8. i brought orignal hoses on my discovery none had a spring on them, the block drain plug was on the turbo side of the block, and if i remember properly it a 13mm bolt this diagram might help like i said check the oil cooling aswell and when you had the headgasket done how much did you have to skim off it, and why did you have it done apparently 300tdi heads are well known for cracking
  9. hi i think the wirings messed with or the wrong bulbs because the speed of the flashing is set by the resistance of the bulb, also some LED bulbs mess's with things too
  10. It could possibly still be the oil thermostat ( getting jammed ) as you go up hill, you wouldnt get the oil light flicker as when it is on closed it flows internaly which could make the overheat, I know you,ve must be getting annoyed after all this, try remove it and see what happens, it's located on the direct left of the oil pressure switch where the pipe goes in and is held on by two screws, hopefully it might look obvious when you remove it
  11. Hi mate sounds like the cooling systems working what you checked the oil cooler hoses and the oil cooler therostat as that to overheat the engine quite quick or the oil cooler blockage ??
  12. wrong way round heater hoses shouldnt cause a problem, does the water level need toping up once in a while (might have a leak) or brige the fan so that they stay on and try it the same happens could possibly be the rad but now being there cant really know
  13. You should still have you viscos fan that helps abit and as you go up the hill does the heating go hot or cold ?? Of cold air bubble
  14. If you know the turbos blown try this block the turbo oil feed line and push and hold the waste gate to the fully open position ! (helps stop bits off the turbo getting stuck in the cat!) and start the engine and see if the oil light goes out, this way you know if the bearings in the engine arnt gone which will save you guessing if the turbos the only problem
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