Simon_CSK

Bought some C shaped spanners and that did the job. Still a huge faf trying to get it done and for 3 bolts took 45minutes. At least it is now done and Henry (the dog) will get nowhere near it in future.

Griff tried ratcheting just couldn't get in also stubby don't work so have oredered curved ones which I will try when I get back from my holiday to Barcelona over New Year.

Thanks guys The trim is the easy part and comes off easily however when you try and access the bolt I cannot get the socket and extension in because of a plate welded to the floor in front of it. A spanner will go on but there is no room for manouvering it. I think I am looking at either a curved spanner or a stubby.

As I said the dog ate the drivers seatbelt on my Disco 2 when he was left alone in the car. I have another Disco for spares and when I went to retreve the belt it was inpossible to het the bolt that holds in the inertia reel. I ended up cutting away the pillar to get it out. Now I have it out I need to refit it does anybody know how it comes out. I cannot get a ratchet in and the spanner would only just go on and hardly if at all turn the bolt.

Want a logbook and VIN plate?

Thanks guys. A couple of months ago I bought a Disco for spares on Ebay as I needed and engine for mine but it turned out that the engine was knackered also. So I bought another one last week that has the immobilisation issue. Not got the car yet but I certainly have all the electronics to sort it out like ECU' Keys and BCU's so should hopefully be the case of swithching the bits over. Simon

I have a Disco 2 with electronic immobilisation issues and also have a donor vehicle. Does anyone know what I need to change over to get the car to run?

thanks guys for the replies. I released the cap and the pipe reformed and I topped it off with a dribble of water. Not even half a litre

My Disco 2 has had problems for a while now. Today I fitted a new radiator and theromstat and after bleeding it took it for a run bled it again and took it for another run. On the second run it died, fuel pump but that is another story. I phoned the AA because of the fuel and when he arrived I tild him the problem which was fixed by battering on the fuel tank. Anyway while we were talking I noticed that the top hose had vacuumed in but as soon as I unscrewed the header tank it reverted to its former shape. What is the likely cause for the vacuum?

Well guys am I back with a bump lol. Blew the top water hose. I knew it was leaking water from the pump and was topping it up regularly until I could fit the new pump but the car decided otherwise!! Had a look this evening and replaced the top hose as I had a spare. It runs and doesn't overheat but think there is an underlying problem, Ideas would be useful I have a TD5. As for the other stuff going wrong in my life. Well it is character building and now out the other side at long last. Thanks again for the support.

Thanks guy nice to be back and very nice to be in a Land Rover even though the Mini is cute it doesn't like pot holes very much

After a fairly torrid and then hectic 18 months I have returned!! February last year my Disco gave up the ghost and I ran my Range Rover until October when I cooked the engine. Becuase of my divorce and then the forced sale of my home I bought a Mini Convertible which in 11 months I have covered 21000 miles eek. The Mini was protesting and the clutch was on the way out. Managed today to get the Disco finally sorted and through the MOT and drove it home today. I was driving with a huge grin on my face!! Why does my Landy do that? It has a wreaked rear wing the interior needs a good clean, the radio has dodgy wiring but I was still very happy driving it home. BTW to add to the divorce and loosing the house I lost my old dog on Monday and had to get my young dog rehomed in March but on the plus side I have bought a Cottage with a field to play in, remarried to a wonderful girl, (when I suggested before the wedding that as we were going to Austria in July for out honeymoon we could go to the Grand Prix, she said OK!!) and life is generally looking good. Nice to be back and nice to have my Disco going now to fix the Rangie and the Mini

That is what I was thinking. It saves taking the engine out on a whim when I don't know for sure that it the issue. Anyway snowing here so we will not be doing that job today.

Just looking at it on paper was screwing with my mind. Intend to sit down and have the 4 permutations written down with a diagram so I am moving cables in sync. The worst part is you cannot easily see the coil pack so everything that end is done by touch.

Bowie If I move the plug leads to try it rather than stripping the whole thing back again is it a case of moving the leads around. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 so if I move 1 to position 4 then 8 goes to 3 4 goes to 6 etc?

The car is a Thor P38 Auto. The old block definitely had a dowel because I can see it as it is still in my driveway. The drive plate therefore has the dowel hole. I cannot remember seeing the dowel when I refitted the drive plate but I have such an awful memory then it could be there or it could be missing. The first thing I heed to establish is that the plug leads are fitted correctly. If that is the case or there is still a problem after it is corrected I think the only thing I can do is drop the gearbox. It will give me the excuse to change the transfer box anyway because the viscous coupling, if not completely seized is not far away. I think the gearbox will be easier than the engine. Certainly less bolts and once separated from the transfer box it a little easier. Here we go again!!

Certainly the old block had the dowel but I don't remember the one on the new block. That doesn't mean it isn't there it just means that I have an awful memory. I think first job at the weekend will be to check the right leads are going to the right plugs. I can then take it from there.

Didn't notice a dowel and put it on and off a couple of times. In theory it can be out 1/4 or 1/2 turn therefore if I put the plus leads in in three other positions in theory it should fire? Otherwise back to square one and engine out to check the flywheel.

I have a problem with the timing on my P38 and have put a post on previously. I am looking at the flywheel and have noticed a couple of things relating to it. Is it possible to install it incorrectly i.e. it has 4 fixing bolts symmetrically placed so therefore it could be fixed 4 different ways. If it is fixed incorrectly does it mean engine/ gearbox out and start again?

Garry Thanks In the god old days I would make sure the no.1 piston was in compression and then note the position on the points as to where the firing was. Simply then connect the plugs to the relevant position on the distribution. Is it now a case that the electronics sort all that out?

I spent the new year fitting a new block to my P38 finally got it finished last weekend and came to start it and could not because the battery was U/S Just put a new battery in it today and it turns over and then coughs as if the firing order is mixed up. I the good old days I would have looked which way the points were going and sorted it out that way. On new technology how can I work out the sequence? I thought I was clever when I took the old engine out by marking each lead with tape and re installing it as it came out. Guess I was wrong. Help appreciated.

Finally got most of the engine back in and to assist anyone thinking about doing this here are a few pointers to avoid the heart ache that I have been through over the last few weeks. When you are ready to get the engine lifted back in these are the things that you want to have in place. Both exhaust manifolds the timing sensor on the right hand side to the rear of the exhaust manifold. the cooling pipe that comes off the water pump. All of these things have given me a headache. There is an argument that leaving the exhausts manifolds off gives easier access to the engine mounting nuts. I had that problem the first time I changed the engine on a P38 so this time round I chose to leave off the manifolds. Believe me the engine mounts are much simpler by comparison.

I left the manifolds off because the last time I did it I had problems with the engine mounts. Sometimes you just cannot win. Well I am almost there but stopped when I cut my hand!!

I bought a 1/4in drive 12 spline deep reach socket set this morning that allowed me to get it further in until the ratchet fouled on the manifold but that then allowed me to use a 3/8in deep reach socket to get it in further until that too fouled. Now I will revert to the 1/4in with a small extension but given the position of the manifold pipes and the steering knuckle it in very difficult and I can only manage one or two clicks on the ratchet before I need to turn it back. Boy am I glad I don't do this for a living. If only I had put the manifolds on before I reattached the engine then the question would have been how do I get the engine mount nuts on.

Bowie Thanks have got the bolt started again it must be by ESP. 3/8 deep reach will not get close so I am going to get 1/4 12 spline as I only have 6 at the moment. Almost there but it is getting to be a nightmare. Most of the engine in back in just the exhaust, the drive plate to connect and a sensor to refit then I can get it started hopefully.