Simon_CSK

The car has been fine for 30k since the chassis was rebuilt. Would the prop not have caused a problem before this? The wobble is bad an had to replace the middle box on the exhaust as it was shaken to bits.

The front axle on the Disco 2 has drive shafts connecting to the front hubs doing away with the swivel housings.

Ok I have raised this before but still do not have a solution. My suspension knock and the steering wobbles at anything over 45. So far I have replaced one wheel bearing and, the track control arms. Today I took off one radius are with a view to replacing the bushes but with it off I did not see an noticeable degradation so reinstalled them. I did notice that the links on the anti roll bars appear a little worn so have ordered new ones but I am not convinced this is the cause of the problem. Any I thoughts appreciated.

The last defender has passed

Pump is now running finebut the brakes are still not working properly. Electrically a couple of minor niggles but nothing major. Having said that I have literally just changes the battery on the remote and now the offside side light and the offside indicator are permanently on and the alarm has triggered. The car still starts ok even with the lights on and the alarm sounding. Not in the mood to check it out properly because of the snow so have disconnected the battery. Suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Main 40amp fuse was blown and now changed. Checked the relay by pulling it in and out with the engine running and seemed to be clicking fine. Held the ABS pump and there appears to be no vibration and given that there is vibration suppression on the mounting points it would seem to me to be a U/S pump. It that a fair reflection on the diagnosis?

Thanks I will check Finding a pump is not difficult I have about 3 of them and on that basis not even sure the old one is u/s so will check when the snow clears. Thanks to both

Got an ABS failure message on the P38 before Christmas and not used the car since. The brakes are rock hard and it take a lot to get it to stop so my guess is the ABS pump. Have changed this with a spare but no difference do I need to get the fault code cleared? Thanks

But then again if you check out with paypal you are protected regardless. There is nothing wrong with a new start company in general it is really about the person that starts it. What is their background.

Not quite as steep as the but very expensive none the less. On a car I purchased 9 months before the swap for £3500 it cost me in excess of £7000 to get it through its next MOT. After 4 years of ownership and 43000 miles it owes me nothing. Will not likely sell it just keep it running forever.

Mine is a 5 seater fitted with airbags and Ace probably because it was an ES model. Watch for the chassis everywhere. Before I changed my chassis I replaced 2 foot at every radius arm mounting point. The chassis is very expensive to change.

Merry Christmas to one and all. I hope Santa is good this year.

But we are enthusiasts who know our vehicles very well and know what the rare and common parts are. If you have bought a Defender/Discovery/Freelander or Range Rover for the first time you cannot have the vast wealth of knowledge that we have. Therefore if someone tells you it is rare then you are likely to believe it and pay extra.

Agree. But can be very expensive. generally second hand prices are about supply and demand. If there isa big demand and poor supply then that will reflect in the price. You can see that in the value of Classic and P38 spares. P38's are cheap because lots are being broken. Classic parts are rising because of poor supply.

That is why I thought it was an early model. i.e. 2 door on an L plate. So I am not mad then! (No more than usual that is for a Landy nut)

If you are taking the roof off anyway why not take the top rail off and fit the glass to the rubber fit in the 3 sides if the frame then bolt on the top rail (carefully). Theoretically it should work.

I don't drink much and have never been drunk in 30 years however still make mad purchases and currently have two boats, and a car transporter trailer together with my CSK Disco and P38 on my driveway. The neighbours went mad when the first boat showed up. One disadvantage with working on a computer all day from home is the it is very easy to have a shuftie as Ebay and inevitably buy loads of stuff off there. Now I have the boats I am spending my days searching for things I can use to restore one of them and despite buying one only for the outboard I am not happy with it now I have it and am looking for a new outboard. There are bargains to be had if you know how to play it. What I have found is there are people who get their friends to bid up an item. Sometimes it doesn't sell and is relisted in hours. That was how I got my first boat for peanuts as I think in the end they were desperate to get rid of it at any price.

The windscreen on classics is fitted in the rubber in an unusual way. You sit the screen on and fold back the rubber seal guiding the glass behind. In most car window installations of the age the rubber was fitted to the glass with a string around it. The glass and rubber were fitted over the aperture and the string used to pull the glass over the metal. On quite a lot of classics the rubber is cut on the outside in the corners because fitters haven't a clue how to dibble the glass in.

Jamie On an L should it not have been a 3.5 on Carbs? For £300 it is worth it for the bits but being modified it could be problematic.

If it helps the discussion my TD5 has 180k on the clock and pulls like a train. My V8 P38 has 118k on the clock and is excellent. Like the TD5, drove a Disco with a V8 and didn't, the like it.

VB Must be the wheel bearing as the Disco 2's don't have swivels they have ball joints.

Lifted both front wheels and there is play on the o/s/f which I take it to mean my bearing is shot. I was therefore lucky to have got to Portsmouth and back. The last time that happened the wheel collapsed. New bearing on order so hopefully all fixed early next week.

Not yet. I am going to jack it up as soon as the weather improves. The vibration is too bad to drive. It is Poly Bushes on it an they certainly look ok to me

I had found a track rod end gone and replaced them however today I took the car for a long run and the vibration is still there. I have checked the bushes and they appear to be fine there was no movement with my habds but that doesn't mean they are not gone. How do I check the bushes?