cefn_bran

Once the engine is warm, it's pretty much OK - will bat along at 55 to 60 mph with no issues, though maybe still a little sluggish on hill starts, but not nearly as bad as when cold. I've had the vehicle about 6 months and it has always been like that. Replaced the turbo early on, and of course a new timing belt, neither of which have had an effect on the cold hill start issue. The timing was VERY advanced when I got it, probably to get it through the auction without filling the hall with smoke ;-) New timing makes the engine run cooler now. I did have a problem with a hot engine not starting - felt like the starter motor was struggling. But that's sorted by the retarded timing now. Guess its just a TDi thing. I'll just have to not be in a hurry if I need to drive in THAT direction. It is a fairly nasty hill straight off my track and I have to use lots of throttle and a bit of clutch slip to do it smoothly. I could always turn right! Thanks Ivan

I have wondered, but these seem to be a (fairly) new addition to the towbar market. I'm wondereing if they are used now for all those people who load their caravans unbalanced and then drive too fast - thus helping their caravan to go all swervy?

I have run my 300 TDi on 100% biodiesel (remanufactured used chip fat) with no ill consequences. Ran absolutely fine. My supply has dried up for now, but plan to get back on it as soon as possible. I also ran my Peugeot HDi on it until the low pressure pump disintegrated costing £500 to put right. The garage reckoned it was the biofuel, but I've since heard of many other disintegrated Bosch high pressure fuel systems (running on regular diesel), so, er, I think not. The main problem with biodiesel and veg oil is the fuel filter. DO carry a new one at all times for the first bit. I needed to change mine at 500 miles, but its been fine ever since (including a sedimenter clean-up). The peugeot needed changing at 130, 600 and 3000 miles, but is now sorted. The biofuel does an excellent clean up job of the waxes that have attached themselves to the inside of your tank and fuel lines, so once thay are all clean, no problem. Ivan

My 300TDi '94 Disco needs exsessive throttle to get moving uphill, especially when cold. Any first thoughts?

That's horrible, Jim Here's the picture of my sprocket, clearly showing those nasty 8 spot welds that Land Rover thought were sufficient: The front lip must have been 'pinged' off by someone with a jemmy or puller, not realising the potentially disasterous consequences of their actions. Hum...thanks!

Finally got round to sorting some pictures of the cam belt saga. Here's the groove worn in the timing cover by the belt creeping forwards: And here's the extend of that creep forwards with a new belt after just a dozen turns: I'm sure I had a picture of the crankshaft sprocket too, but it seems to have vanished. The sprocket only had one lip (on the rear) - the front lip had been prised off by a previous mechanic (?) on the vehicle, thus allowing the cam belt to creep forwards. Clever, eh? Let that be an end to it (I hope).

Yeah, wish I could have put the pins in before taking the belt off, but this belt was shredded!

Glad my disco doesn't have a sunroof. I'd be doing this all the time ;-)

Yes, that false hole was the problem. Was doing the job with a mate - he did the injector pump side of things. Once he'd gone and I was well and truly snowed in, I got down to it myself. A 10mm drill bit definitely fits snugly and positively into the injector pump, and slides right through to engage with the hole behind. No play at all. A sure fit. Once I'd corrected this, engine started first time and sounds lovely. Now running much cooler than before, doesn't have a problem starting when hot. Just perfect. Well chuffed. Thanks for all your help, everyone. Ivan

Harumph. OK All the timing is sorted - wading plug, injector pump, cam, woodruff key. And I remembered the FIP lead too. And she still won't start. Plenty of fuel getting to injectors. Back to the drawing board, me thinks . Ivan

Hurrah! Thanks for not being out green laning on a Sunday morning. Off to do it now....Will post back in an hour Ivan

Hi Guys - got an anomaly! OK - put pin in flywheel through wading plug. Crankshaft woodruff key is 90 degrees advanced though. That doesn't seem right. Any ideas? Which is right - use the flywheel or the crankshaft? If I leave the pin in the wading plug, should I simply return the pump and cam back 1/8 turn to line them up, or should I line up the woodruff key and leave the flywheel 90 deg out? Erm... help. Ivan

Just got time to come back to this and noticed the tensioning advice. I've got conflicting advice between 11 and 33 ftlb. Go on - what's the right one? Ivan

Didn't manage to get hold of a digi camera today. As you say the crankshaft pulley should have either none or two lips, do you think I am safe to assume that replacing the pulley with a two-lipped one (a full mouth?) and forgetting about the new injector pump bracket will suffice, or should I replace the injector pump bracket too? My main fear would be the belt climbing up the lip if there is still loads of pressure for the belt to drift forwards, or the belt grinding away on the front lip. Hmmm Ivan

I'll try sort some pics out in the morning as I've no digi camera. The crank shaft pulley only has a lip at the back, not the front, so I guess this is an old one and I've got an unmodified engine. Ahh, well! Found this quote whilst crawling "£176 for an extensive modification kit STC4095K including not only the new belt but also a new timing cover, idler pulleys and crankshaft sprocket with belt retaining lips." (No mention of injector pump bracket, though). I'm thinking that this full kit is a main dealer part, as paddocks don't appear to list it on t'interweb, though I'll give them a call on Monday. Meanwhile... Thanks for your helps Ivan

Hi Les I got this stuff from Paddocks. Specifically asked for the conversion stuff as I didn't know if it had been done. They supplied me with the bracket and two rollers along with gasket and belt, though no new bolts, so I guess that I could consider that this disco is now converted. Don't see, however, how this bit of kit can correct the injector pump misalignment though. I'm sure I've read somewhere that there is a new timing cover involved along with other stuff, and someone has spoken to me about having to take the injector pump off. So now I'm mightily confused. It would appear that I've got a converted engine that has a belt slipping off. Aaarrggghhh. Help. Ivan

Hello all! Following a snapped cam belt that only mashed 6 pushrods and snapped two rockers , everything is back together, but there is a problem... When turning over the engine (with timing cover off), the cam belt sneaks forward...about half way off the sprockets after just a couple of dozen turns. I inspected the inside of the timing cover and found a groove deep enough to run scalextrix on. Don't really want to cover this up, 'cos the belt is simply going to wear away again (the mashed belt was down to about half its original thickness when the teeth gave way). I strongly suspect that this 1994 300Tdi hasn't had the after market conversion to correct the injector pump misalignment, but how do I tell? Could this be the problem or is there something else? Anyone got any experience of this? Thanks Ivan

Thanks folks. That's great advice. Looks like I'll be doing the work on Thursday or Friday, so I'll know by then. If on turn over it sounds like a bag of sh*te, I'll strip it down and post photos for the record. Seasons gratings Ivan

Thanks for all your advice and the welcome. Very helpful. I've just returned to Land Rover after a few years break from Series 3 onto Nissan. This is my first Discovery, and am quite happy with it (despite having to replace the turbo and PAS pump); it's quiet and warm and the CD player works. I've delved a little down into the engine - many bent pushrods and two snapped rockers. Haven't yet taken the head off to check valves etc. LR90 is suggesting I maybe don't need to remove the head "Chances are all you'll need is a new belt and push rods, and won't need to remove the engine or even the head." (as valve damage is rare). Is it wise not to? - would sure be easier to leave it on. I've already got the timing belt kit in, and got a set of pushrods at the same time just in case. Rockers are going to take some time, because its Christmas and everywhere is shut (of course). Plenty of time to investigate and clean everything up, then Have a great Christmas (or whatever you celebrate), all of you. Ivan

My Disco 1994 300TDi has just mashed its cam belt and subseqently done huge damage to LOTS of stuff I could look at fixing it, but I have a good Nissan Patrol SD33 engine sitting here, and the thought has crossed my mind of doing a swap... Has anyone had any experience of this, known someone who has done it, know if there is a conversion plate for it? Comments, please...