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5122

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Everything posted by 5122

  1. Good to know. Thanks a lot of the link!
  2. Nice one! Thanks for the tip I got an old mashed up one so will compare the length when I recieve them in the post.
  3. Thanks again everybody - very grateful for the replies
  4. Ah, Margnor is in/near Guildford! Didn't realise. Is the Farnham one different?
  5. Thanks everybody! I'm a few miles down the A3 from Guildford/Farnham - any name/links/telefon numbers? Will update the profile (dread these settings as I alway get lost in them). Yes, the part is FTC3455, which supercedes FTC1626 (lower swivel pin bolt, which normally is a 7/16" x 1.1.8" bolt, but on mine is an M8 x 35mm). Saw the Margnor site which looked great, but from memory I think there was a minimum order of a 100 if Im correct.
  6. Spent 3 hours on the Internet today trying to find a supplier for a particular bolt. Just cannot find one or a supplier willing to sell me a quantity less than 100. The specifications are: M8 x 35mm Socket head (hex or torx) countersunk bolt, partially threaded, grade 8.8 or relevant alternative stainless. Any suggestions to where I can get hold of some? PS its for the lower swivel pin on a D1 1997, but not part number 255467 or FTC1623
  7. I've now got both bolt and neither of them fit All the drawings and feedback from this forum indicate the correct bolt for the lower swivel pin is either part no 255467 or FTC1623. Both of them are 7/16" x 1.1/8" long, however the bolt required on my swivel housing is an M8 x 35mm. Have I just got a weird car?
  8. Before looking at fuses; does the ABS warning light come on when that happens? Does it stay on? I got an ABS sensor not working on the RH front wheel. Doesn't make any funny noises, just brakes. Can you describe the noise you are hearing, because I don't see how a faulty sensor can produce a noise and cause you temporarily to loose braking. What makes you sure its the sensor? Have you tested it? The positioning of the sensor is quite delicate, so pop it out, disconnect it and put a meter on it. Move the sensor close to a metal object. If you can a different reading/reaction, the sensor is working!
  9. Ah, thanks for the aquatic tip! Good stuff!
  10. That's true, with the bolt almost out, there isn't enough space, but once it tightens up, the ring end is a better fit being 12-point.
  11. You are right, I could fit a spacer, but the advice is not to split the calipers (not sure why, but think that has something to do with the seal). I've decided to keep things simple and just overhaul my existing calipers with a repair kit as upon inspection, at least two pistons where sticking which would explain some of the overheating I've had.
  12. Thanks. I was tempted yesterday while at my local tool store to buy a 14mm rachet spanner for the job, but then I thought that was a bit excessive!
  13. Just watched these pictures in disbelief!!! Oh my God. You got to admire your skill, confidence and determination to get this thing back to resembling a car again! Seriously impressive. Think most people would have run away screaming and not even bothered. Did you weigh the car before? Would have been fun to know how much metal the rust worm managed to consume. Keep it up - you've come this far!
  14. Thanks for your reply! I've since 'discovered' that although its a straight swap, the 110 caliper pistons are larger and will therefore require the brake master cylinder to work harder resulting in increased pedal travel. Don't really want to get into changing that too. Got to stop somewhere and get the damn thing on the road at some point soon. Sounds like a nice upgrade especially as I do quite a lot of mountain driving (auto) and my brakes reguarly overheat. I'm bringing the car out to Italy, where I got comformaty issues when it comes to registring the car, so I guess its not worth it at this point. Thanks again!
  15. Now that's what I'm talking about! Brilliant and thanks for the link!
  16. Hello again, I'm after the part no. for the lower swivel pin bolts in the photo. Measurements are 8mm x 35mm with a torx head. L R Series hasn't got any other listed than part no. 255467 which is a 7/16 UNF X 1.1/8 bolt. Can anyone help please?!
  17. Maybe this topic has been up before, but I am planning to upgrade the brakes on my 1997 Discovery tdi. As standard its got solid discs, 4 pot calipers and a single pipe brake line system. Upgraded calipers (to vented) requires twin pipe input and won't work without plumming in pipes and a different brake master cylinder (not keen on that). I've heard about conversions usings Defender 110 brake calipers (larger than disco), disco discs and 110 pads (larger), but is this a straight swap? Will it work? Would love to hear from anyone with experience of this!
  18. You are right, haven't thought about that. So fixed on proper parts and numbers! Thanks
  19. Hello, I've broken the plastic T-junction (several litres of washer liquid up my sleeve ) located under the lower plastic guard of the front bumper (splitting the hose to the left and right washer jet). RAVE doesn't show it, neither does my workshop manual. Would really like a part number for this little bugger please
  20. Thanks a lot! Great article and description of the whole job. Doing exactly that at the moment so has come in very handy. Nice 'trick' with the two spanners. Only thing that struck me was the two brake pipes going to the calipers!!!? Mine only has one? Nevertheless, thanks again for the link!
  21. As always - most helpful. Much appreciated!
  22. Hope someone would be able to help me with this one too: I'm after the part number/size for the 7 bolts securing the swivel housing to the axle. Looks like a 3/8 UNC bolt to me, but I'm really not an imperial man myself. Hope to hear back. Thanks
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