Paul 200 TDI

that's my bet too

take a look here http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54746&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

D1, D2, D3 or D4?

does it only happen when you are driving in a straight line?

must learn to read the complete post

i think he wants the 2 rods from the steering wheel to the box

Look here http://www.difflock.com/magazine/Workshop_and_Servicing/Remove_the_EGR_valve_-_Land_Rover_300TDi.shtml

Her's a very good site for imformation on D2's http://www.discovery2.co.uk/ Welcome to the forum BTW

One the easiest jobs I have done, and it didn't take long to do, also there was no need for the first aid kit

Right now you got that sorted, then we can start with the fuseable links, rip them out put them in a bin and fit an under bonnet fuse box from a 300 TDI. A very easy job to do

again that wouldn't cause 1 head light to be OK and the other dim. It's some thing to do with the individual lights, voltage feed, bad connection or earths

So what is the stick doing now in neutral? sits where it wants or is it still biased?

Personaly I think it's an earth problem. If the switch was defective the lights would be on or off or dim, but not a combination from left to right. So I would be checking out the earth points or the plug for the lights, they can melt.

Spray the linkage from the inside with WD40

Seems to me moose that plasticbadger could be your neighbour, why not pop over

Yep, turn the complete switch over. There should be 2 different kinds of arrows for up and down, check to see if the doors ones are the same as the console ones

Unscrew the center nut, 27mm (I think) but leaving it on the last few threads will save a broken nose, then wriggle, bang, knock it from behind

I think that I would be looking at the turbo/inter cooler side of things, does it drive like it should (did?)

white smoke is normaly water in the fuel system. Might be related to the head gasket change, but could be you need new filters

Yes that, remove the rubber tube and check the condition of the thermostat out let pipe

More information is needed I think. How far did you drive it? I assume the shaking had some thing to do with the engine and is not a seperate issue? Sounds to me (novice) you didn't tighten some thing properly or torque it down, could be the rocker bar come loose, or valve(s) clearence. Cover off take a look

I think you just got to get used to it, I was the same with mine at first, Sabine still is unsure about 1st or reverse. it could however be the bias plate or springs, both easy to replace

remove one end of the damper and push/pull the piston through the limits, pay particular attention to where the wheels will be pointing straight forward, look for a "slack" spot, it can be very hard to notice it. But thats not your problem. right the steering box is tightened by loosening the 19mm(?) nut close to the middle of the top on the box and very carefully turning the torque screw or allen screw in the middle, be careful, don't over tighten may only need 1 flat on the screw. Re tighten the 19mm lock nut holding the center screw in place

Probably not the damper at fault if the steering is not wobbling very badly, most likely the box needs the free play taken out, or bushes7track rod ends need replacing, or swivel pin preload needs checking,or even tyre pressure. all these will effect the steering response/sensitivity

When at the P & P day did your friend go wading? and where wading plugs fitted?