Jump to content

JonT

Settled In
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If locks are same as Freelander 1, then there are seperate locking and unlocking solenoids - in that case, the the lock will need to be replaced. Common problem on FL1's
  2. Have you tried using the blipper to open the rear door ? First press on the unlock button unlocks the driver's door, then a second press should unlock all other doors, including the rear .
  3. JonT

    emissions

    How hot was the engine at the time of test ?? It can make a huge difference with the 'K' series. What might help would be to arrange for emissions to be tested as soon as you arrive at the test station (if you can), and take the car for a good run first (at least 15-20 miles) so that the cat is fully up to temp and operating correctly. We run an MG-F for my wife, and this is a trick I usually use at MOT time - running the engine with the car static just does not get things hot enough to be working properly. The 'F' failed this year on emissions, with CO at 1.128 (max allowed is 0.300), and Lambda at 1.073 (max allowed is 1.030) - your 'max allowed' figures should be the same, as it is the same engine. HC was OK I fitted a new cat, and the results then were CO at 0.077, Lambda at 0.999 - HC still OK. So, for just a little short of £40 quid, all OK. Just because a cat was fitted to your car a couple of years back, it doesn't mean that it is still OK.
  4. JonT

    emissions

    What were the actual readings as shown on the emissions report ?? Does it show fails against CO, HC or Lambda ?? It should show Min Limit/Max Limit/Actual Value
  5. I'm afraid that it will - I suppose that you could always get a "pre-owned" latch, but there is no guarantee that it will last any length of time. At least, that was my reasoning. The new unit cost me £92, as against second-hand for about £40 (possibly), but at least I have a unit which I know is good. The unit I removed was second-hand (it still carried the yellow paint marks put on by the dismantler), and given that the unit it replaced had been left in the back door of the motor by the previous owner, I reckon that it had been fitted no more than 12 months previously !! I also think that it was an incorrect fitment - in both the original and the new unit I purchased there were 7 pins for the multi-plug connector - in the unit |I removed, there were 8 !
  6. "On the other hand, you can always unlock the driver's door with the key, rather than climbing over the passenger seat!" Ahh - thereby hangs another tale !! Key will go in, but not turn - when I have the exterior handle and door latch off to replace the latch (this weekend), I'll have a look at the barrel lock itself to see if I can fix it
  7. Good evening, all - I wonder if anyone can give me a point in the right direction to solve a problem which has arisen today on my '51 plate TD4 3-door ?? Problem is that the drivers side door lock will not unlock on the blipper - it will LOCK on the blipper, but not unlock. The expected 'clunk' can be heard when pressing the blipper button, but the door button stays down, lock stays locked. It will also not lock/unlock on the dashboard switch which locks/unlocks all doors, including rear door. To get into the car, I have to 'blip' twice, get in on the passenger side, and open the driver's door manually using the interior door handle. I have checked the linkages between lock and door handles (inside and outside), and all appears to be OK Any and all hints/tips gratefully accepted
  8. "You could try cleaning & lubing the clutch release arm where it goes into the box, mine was half-seized" This is a common problem with this 'box on the MG-F - Mike Satur does a replacement release arm which has been drilled and fitted with a grease nipple so that lubrication is possible
  9. JonT

    Freelander 2

    "Im sorry to say but the hippies that buy the 2WD one will look like idots come winter time! No offense to anyone who has bought one! " Sorry, but I don't necessariliy agree with that rather sweeping statement !! I bought a 2001 TD4 FL1 in July last year, and because of doubts about the condition of the VCU (later confirmed as on its last legs), the VCU and props were removed - I finally got round to re-fitting props and a re-con VCU on 14th. February this year - so that means that I ran the car through this last winter in 2-wheel drive. I live up in the Staffordshire Moorlands - we had a fair old amount of snow up here, but I never had any trouble at all getting out and about in the FL.
  10. Yep, that's the one !! Getting replacement tomorrow
  11. I assume that, as with other engine/gearbox mountings, the rubber bushes in the tie-rod should be firmly bonded into their housings ?? (I realise that this may seem a daft question, but you never know !!) The reason I ask is that I have been trying to trace a clonk/rattle from the front of the vehicle, low down - it was evident before the recent MOT test, on which my tester found a track-rod end which needed replacement, but nothing else - I had rather hoped that he might find the problem for me. Today (once it stopped raining) I have removed the underbelly cover, which had a number of splits in it - I have repaired these, but before re-fitting it, took the car for a quick run round the block. The clonk/rattle is still evident, but not as bad as before - I had previously tested the tie-rod with a pry-bar, and though there was a little movement, it was certainly not "loose" enough to cause concern. However, i have just taken it off the car, and find that I could quite easily push the rubber bush out of it by hand - hence my question above. To me, it seems that the bush is still firm enough to stop any excessive forward/backward rocking of the engine, but is so loose that it will allow unwanted sideways movement, and that is where the clonk/rattle is coming from
  12. "Should have shot it when had the chance" Or maybe the vendor !!
  13. If it ain't broke, no need to fix it !! check for wear in the bottom arm ball joint, if no wear, don't replace.
  14. I should have looked before leaping into action with the above post !! - I have now found a source of a replacement exactly as above !!
  15. I know that the arm apparently has to be replaced if the ball joint is showing wear, but - on the MGF, it is possible to obtain just a replacement ball joint, which is fitted by drilling out the rivets fixing it to the bottom arm, and fitting the replacement using three bolts/nuts which are supplied with the ball joint. Does anyone know if there is the same sort of replacement available for the Freelander bottom arm ??
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy