splutter

Series 3 with 3 finger pointer on the engine....From the left to right as you stand in front looking at the engine.......6 degrees before, 3 degrees before and TDC.............. set the mark on the crank pulley to the left market on the engine which is 6 degrees before TDC. Hope this is of some help .

Nothing wrong with a gearbox from Dave Beaumont, just fitted one in my 109" If anyone knows how to put them together it's Dave and his Team! Hope that helps!

I know its a bit late in the day but her is the answer for the future The bearing number that will fit all be it a fraction longer than the original is JD9448 and costs £19.38p.... It's a John Deere Tractor water pump bearing.The extra length ( It's only a few mm ) can be lost in the inside of the housing where there is a recess........... it will need to be trimmed with a 1mm cutting disc at both ends, but just hold the cutter steady and don't press hard let the disc cut slowly and you'll be fine, I've done loads with a 4" grinder and a 1mm cutting disc. here's where to get if from .............http://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/.............. 01673 828883................ Ask for James, he'll order you one and post it out to you. The bearing Dia is 1.5" or 38.10mm the barrel length is about 50 to 52mm ( 3 to 5 mm longer than the original) the spindle dia that you need is 0.626" ( 15.91mm) and needs trimming to 27mm longer than the end of the barrel The other end also has a spindle but that just needs cutting off as close to the barrel as possible, I usually manage 2 to 3mm without any trouble. Hope this helps. So there you guys have it, I've given you a trade secret away, how good is that!............Don't ever say that the bearing can't be replaced and you have to buy a new front timing cover.. You Don't Kind Regards to anyone reading this.

Hi Mikey D, I know its a bit late in the day but her is the answer for the future The bearing number that will fit all be it a fraction longer than the original is JD9448 and costs £19.38p.... It's a John Deere Tractor water pump bearing.The extra length ( It's only a few mm ) can be lost in the inside of the housing where there is a recess........... it will need to be trimmed with a 1mm cutting disc at both ends, but just hold the cutter steady and don't press hard let the disc cut slowly and you'll be fine, I've done loads with a 4" grinder and a 1mm cutting disc. here's where to get if from .............http://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/.............. 01673 828883................ Ask for James, he'll order you one and post it out to you. The bearing Dia is 1.5" or 38.10mm the barrel length is about 50 to 52mm ( 3 to 5 mm longer than the original) the spindle dia that you need is 0.626" ( 15.91mm) and needs trimming to 27mm longer than the end of the barrel The other end also has a spindle but that just needs cutting off as close to the barrel as possible, I usually manage 2 to 3mm without any trouble. Hope this helps. So there you guys have it, I've given you a trade secret away, how good is that!............Don't ever say that the bearing can't be replaced and you have to buy a new front timing cover.. You Don't Kind Regards to anyone reading this.

Gwyn Lewis A frame ball joints are just standard ones , drilled and a grease nipple fitted. How do I know.! I rang him up and asked if they were they specially made for him and he said NO, just standard and he drills them and fits a grease nipple. MY advice ( Buy a standard one, drill it thread it and fit your own grease nipple) Simples

use the crank pully to push the seal in Turn it round the wrong way and use the flat face to push the seal into the casing. I use a spacer of sorts and the crank nut to wind it in and it goes in square every time. I only push it intill its level with the casing, if you push it in too far then the lip of the seal might not make a good contact

All the parts are all about the same quality nowadays Made by one maufacturer and bought by the 3 major suppliers ( Britpart, Bearmach, Allmakes,) and boxed up acordingly Paddocks service is quite good now and the quality controll has improved. Just purchased a lower crank gear for disco 1 and the quality was good, This one had machined sides, a lot better than the spot welded washer that was on the original. Oh! and their parabolic Springs for the series vehicles are now better quality and made by British Spring so no longer cheap nasty %%%p.

Steering damper

link wont work for me By the time you pay postage from OZ you might as well buy british!

Believe me there is no safe way of doing it up. If you have the radiator out and you have plenty of room then you could use a 1/2" air impact wrench which might take it up to 100lb/ft 3/4 wil obviously take it up a bit more. The danger is that the front pully nuts have a tendancy to work loose unless ther are torqued to the right setting / if you are anywhere near my location give me a shout and you can borrow holding spanner. Put it into a garage and expect a bil for £400 + and then you might get some little git that forgot to tighten something Thats why I do all my own work.....You know what they say ( if you want a job doing right do it yourself)

Don't try locking the flywheel from underneath with a piece of round bar or 9mm drill bit or anything else as it will just bend or break under the strain. If you put it in gear and have someone in the vehicle with the brakes on it will probably slip the clutch plate when you tighten the nut up. You need to hold the front pully with a special tool, ( pictured thats if it worked) then tighten the 27mm nut up with 1/2 " totque wrench to 60lb/ft ( 80mn) then change to 3/4 drive socket set , place socket on the bolt , mark it with tipex or paint at 9 o'clock on the clock face and then tighten it up till the tipex mark comes round to 12 o'clock.....I just did one today and you may need a 5 or 6ft bit of thick wall round tubing to give that bit of extra leverage...It workes for me. hope this helps ........Splut.

I thought I'd read somewhere it was 11 NM so if you say it's 15NM it's not that much more (8 lb/ft to 11 lb/ft) certainly not as much as 21NM (15.5 lb/ft) I've just done mine and set the belt at 10lb/ft and the crank gear has the later type retaining ring on the outside so it should be OK. Thanks for the confirmation. Next job might be a new clutch plate as she's got a slight rattle on start up, but OK it the clutch is depressed, will need to decide either engine out or gearbox out probably engine out as I've only 2 hands and a good gantry and chain hoist. Regards Splut

I read a thread under Land Rover Technical Archive 300TDI cambelt kit and very good it was too with very good pictures. One thing bothered me a bit was the torque setting of the cambelt as described in the artical " tension the belt at 21.77 Nm " Quote (Timing belts are not at all like fan belts, they don't need to be stretched any more than is sufficient to prevent them vibrating or coming off the sprockets. A belt that is too tight will howl and fail prematurely, a belt that's too slack is going to vibrate and either fail prematurely or come off one of the sprockets) AND QUITE CORRECT but correct me if I'm wrong but was the quoted torque to be applied to the tensioning bracket not originally quoted by Land Rover to be 15NM. Then in a later Land Rover service bulletin amended this tension to a new lower figure of 11NM. I might be the one who's wrong but would someone check as a belt that's too tight will not only howl but will probably try to walk. We can all make mistakes and if it's me thats wrong well I apologise in advance. Regards Splut