Chris Good

There's no way to detect sparks. The ECU is looking for the engine turning over, so cranking is all it needs. Running from the FP relay is fine.

Have you tried flipping the wheel over? The adjustment slots are designed to be asymmetric so you get effectively twice the adjustability for your money. In any case, fret not if you can't get closer, a tooth either way makes little difference as you'll be putting a timing light on it to check the alignment and when you do that it is trivial to fine tune the numbers in the software.

You can run the wheel hard up against the damper and the sensor will read it just fine.

That's a bit harsh. The wheel has cunning that may not be apparent at first glance - the 12 holes gives you a coarse location of every 30 degrees. The holes are offset so flipping the wheel gives you another 12 locations to give you a total coarse adjustment of every 15 degrees. The sensor bracket allows for some fine tuning which should allow you to get it prety much spot on. If you can't get it close or don't want to fine tune then you just correct the numbers in the ECU anyway so as long it you have it somewhere in the ballpark you'll be fine. Irrespective of that the very latest RV8 wheel from www.trigger-wheels.com has offset slots to give even more adjustment in each wheel orientation. You may ask why they weren't slotted in the first place, well the reason is threefold. Firstly the bigger the holes the more laser time it requires to cut it and so increases the cost. Secondly the intention was to keep things as simple as possible for the installer, since taking pulleys off can be a chore dropping it on at the closest increment and fine tuning with the bracket and the ECU seemed the "easiest" way to us. As it has turned out people would rather twiddle at the pulley than do it in software - you live and learn. Finally it wasn't clear at the outset how to get sufficient slottage without introducing any weak points and with you guys abusing your cars the way you do we wanted it tough. Given time to ponder we think we've come up with a really robust and flexible slotted design. Chris

That's the reverse of what I've seen in the many hundreds that passed through here. On the zetecs the plastic splits next to one of the bolt holes, I'm not sure why but it only ever happens on the zetec powered mondeos. The cracks aren't always apparent until you've cleaned up the coils and as a result of this we generate a large pile of otherwise fully functional coil packs that go in the bin Coil packs from other models are generally fine. www.trigger-wheels.com is us. We're adding new products all the time, the RV8 specific wheels are one of the most recent, the next planned tranche of products will be coil pack brackets for both single and twin coils, a range of sensor brackets (hopefully including an RV8 specific one) and some special trigger wheels for use with traction control systems. People are always asking us about V6 systems, which up until now we've not really had a good solution for, within the next 7-10 days we'll have EDIS-6 systems available. For the other new products I'm not going to do anything rash and give any timescales but if people want to suggest what they're most in need of then I'll endeavour to put that to the top of the pile. Chris

Strangely enough designing up coil pack brackets for both single and twin coils was to be my job for this week/next as they're something that people have been bugging me to do and add to the product range for a little while now. Sensor brackets are also on the cards but they're a little further down the list of things to do. Andy, do you want a chat offline as I want to make sure I don't tread on any toes. Chris

Already seen the order The post has already gone for today so it'll go out in the morning, with you Thursday. Chris

Yes it's not ideal if the coil packs get wet but the ford packs are gloriously robust and the plugs seal pretty nicely to keep water out. That said I have seen a couple of corroded pins on coil packs but that's really only been on cars that have had some really nasty generic plug leads on them and judging by the looks of the leads it's taken a good few years for them to corrode noticeably. I guess perhaps 1% of coil packs that I've seen have been corroded. If you're at all concerned though shove a pea sized blob of vaseline into the towers before you connect the leads up, the terminals will push through this and still get a good connection but it's a real belt and braces thing.

Looking at your pictures I'd say that you're aligned 50 degrees the wrong direction.

The sensor must be aligned with the gap 50 degrees ahead of TDC (for a v8, for a 4 cylinder it's 90 degrees). The easiest way to do this (IMO) is to put the engine at TDC, then count round 5 teeth ahead of the sensor and locate the missing tooth just there.

There's a strange satisfaction in destructively addressing the source of so many past woes with power tools I've done something similar on my mini, leaving just a stub sticking out and an M12 bolt and washers sealing where the shaft was. On my cosworth installation I needed to retain the oil pump drive so left the shaft intact and just turned down the outer section by holding both ends of the shaft and letting the outer spin against my bench grinder. A word of warning here, the EDIS setup is a doddle to install and "just works", the wheel decoder and direct drive coils can be a pain to get set up. Once running it doesn't tend to give any grief but I hear of far more problems with direct drive than with EDIS. Don't let that discourage you though, there are definite advantages with direct drive.

That's superb Tom. I trust that you're OK with me using those two pics and the thumbnail from your avatar on the website. Chris

That's what I like to hear. If you have any photos of it installed I'd love to have them so that I can add some real-world pictures of them to the gallery on the site. Out of interest did you have space to use both of the spacers?

The EDIS-8 kits are fairly tight margin, largely due to the cost of the EDIS-8 modules themselves, which I essentially sell at cost as I don't think that it's reasonable to charge any more than £80. The RV8 trigger wheel kits are currently on a promotion as they're a newstyle for us, full price will be 10-15 quid more than the current price. Having said that mention the forum and I'll give you 5% off the EDIS kits and 10% off the trigger wheels. To get the discount place the order as normal through the website and just add a note with your order and I'll then refund back the discount. Chris

Bill and I spoke about it some time ago after Nige kindly supplied some specs. In response to that I got hold of a bunch of different pulleys to ensure that the design would work with all of them, unfortunately it turns out that there are actually a couple of different designs and coming up with a generic solution took some time. If you have a pulley with 6 bolt-holes then we've got a bolt-on solution that will work on the front or rear of the pulley as per Nige's description. If you have one of the pulleys with 4 bolt-holes then a rear-mounted trigger wheel isn't really possible so you have to go front-mount, again we have a bolt-on solution. Both trigger-wheel kits have been around for a little while now but I've been rather remiss in letting people know that they're now available and for that I apologise. Details of both styles can be found here http://www.trigger-wheels.com/rv8/ I quite agree although by the time you've shipped them in from the US and paid duty on them he's not going to get rich, FWIW I've got a good supply of EDIS-8 kits in stock, which have the EDIS-8 module, a pair of coil packs and the VR sensor for only a tenner more! http://www.trigger-wheels.com/electrical.php I hope nobody minds the plug, I try to avoid advertising but in this case it seemed appropriate for me to chip in. Chris