Paddy

As the cav was removed to fit new bearings and everything was fine beforehand, I'm thinking your right. Something "happened" to it while off the engine. Its back to the mechanic or diesel pump specialist.

Accelerator cable is free moving and the same symptoms show when operating the throttle linkage on top of the cav, which again is free moving. What I can’t understand is the idle significantly increasing as the engine warms up coupled with the delay in revs dropping after blipping the throttle, despite both idle and stop adjustments being totally backed off. Its as if something within the cav is controlling the revs, as though its overfueling ?? Stop was already backed off when I picked her up and I fully backed off the idle hoping to reduce the idling revs when I got home This made no difference to the revs when hot.

I took my 2.5 na Defender to a local mechanic to replace the timing belt as I’m not fit to do it. On removing the belt the injector pump started leaking, the unit was sent to a diesel specialist to replace worn bearings. Pump was returned and belt installed. Picked her up yesterday, the engine was cold but started first time and ran sweetly. Once reaching normal temperature the idle revs had increase significantly, on blipping the throttle the revs increase as normal but seem slow to reduce down again. I backed off the idle speed adjustment, the throttle stop adjustment was already backed off, but this made no difference in reducing the revs. Throttle linkages are all free. I’ll be taking it back to the mechanic on Monday but any info. or diagnostics would be appreciated.

Good news, putting mine off for a few months while I deal with other problems.

Thanks for the link. I hadn’t copped to the 110 being Salisbury, and as you say the 90 has Rover. Still, an interesting video. I’ll spend a bit of time revising manuals for the 90. Good luck when you get round to yours.

My 90 has started weeping, but I'll leave it until summer to do. Any chance of a link to the video please? An update on your repairs especially snags would be appreciated.

Check the Military forum, there's a link that may help.

This thread may help, there are part nummbers within aswell https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102833-door-leak/?tab=comments#comment-906013

I've read it somewhere too, Google "defender rotary light switch replacement" brings up some help

Yep you’re right. I was remembering the rear light I took out, the back end was full of wet mud so I winkled it out from the front to save me getting caked.

Easier done than explained, Unscrew front glass cover, remove bulb. You’re now looking at a circular plate that has what looks like a black rubber washer round it, this is the front lip of the water proof shroud that extends through the wing. Carefully and easy, prise this lip/shroud out towards you clear of the indicator body. You should see 2/3 screws that hold the indicator body to the wing, remove screws and the body will come forward allowing you to disconnect the wires.

+1

Thanks for all the info, I was going to get a crank seal and only fit if I found anything amiss. I did have reservation about the life of the existing one but would have left well alone. So I will replace regardless. Water pump bolts replaced 2 years ago and well greased so I’ll spend the saving on a standby cam seal. There would be no way I’d do this if it wasn’t for Les’s guide. So yet another vote of thanks Les.

1991 2.5 na Planning on changing my timing belt this summer, this will be my first attempt so a couple of questions. Dayco belt but what tensione/idler ? Bearmach or OEM. ? Not that big a price difference. The engine has only done 91000 Km but is original 1991. Considering its age should I change crankshaft, camshaft seals or leave well alone as no signs of leak.

I can't recall, I kept the original seal but can't remember any confusion of orientation when reinstalling it as long as the gaps drain to the outside.

Check the seal profile before fitting, I tried two makes (can't remember which) before going back to the old original one.

and ditto for timing case.

2 studs go through door into the window, the bottom nuts will be rusted on so go easy, Either the nut will undo or stud will unscrew. Odds on you'll need placements, coat with grease to future proof. Go easy with the seal, original replacements are hard to find, after market ones are different and throw the window section out of alignment.

Assuming your doors are the same as my 1991 military, they are 2 piece with sliding glass. The top window section is bolted onto the lower door section. Between the two is a gasket which has 3 elongated slots about 1” long on the outside of the door, these let the water drain from the window channel to the outside of the door. Make sure these are clear, backflush with a hose or fiddle a bit of wire to try and clear. Else you may have to split the window from the door to clear away debris, it’s only a couple of studs but they will inevitably be seized and the sections stuck together. There are a couple of old threads they may help you if you need to go that way.

Cloud point is when wax particles start to form with the potential to start clogging filters. Pour point is a few degrees lower when it loses its fluid characteristics. Diesel is a blend of a good few different petrochemical components, The recipe changes from summer to winter spec, and even more dramatically when exporting to colder countries. The recipes achieve a certain spec. that gives optimum performance/usability. Adding the likes of Kero will reduce the temperature at which cloud point occurs but at the detriment of something else eg. Cetane level, smoke point, burn efficiency etc. But it is a quick fix. Different refineries will use different recipes depending on how they refine crude oil, but with the aim of achieving the same spec. Plus their additives for extra miles, easy starting or whatever marketing ploy. You’d be surprised how many different brand name fuels come from the same refinery fuel storage depot. Back to the OP. You may unknowingly still be using summer spec diesel, but in exceptionally cold condition the “UK winter spec” may still not give the protection needed were a Norwegian winter spec would.

Like Mo I have every confidence in copper grease. I've not come across any adverse effect from using it either as a LR owner or my working life in industry. It would take some "scientific" type proof for me (and industries) to stop using it as anti seizure measure in all normal circumstances and uses. Each to their own but I'm more than happy happy using it.

I've had no problem either, all be it only over a 20 year period of Landy use. My working life was in a refinery that used copper grease in every conceivable combination of metals, uses and abuses, by the gallon. I never heard of an issue. Can't think that copper would be any more of a catalyst than straight alluminium to steel galvanic action as on my doors.

Agree with "Monkey" and if not in a rush I'm a fan of repeated tapping of the bolt head then let it soak in Penetrating oil for a good few hours and repeating etc. I've just got it in my head that the tapping helps to break the crud/rust bond and allows the oil to soak further down the bolt threads. Jaysus knows how Pen' oil manages to find is way down the threads, if it does at all. Copper grease is a saviour next time round.

You'll be pulling in smells and possibly fumes, not good for the health !! Stick with an external fresh air supply.

I would have been tempted to sleep beside the fire !!. Yep really beautiful and no mossies !!