Paddy

Mine had a rubber “duck bill fanny thingy” for a water drain, supposedly one way but never are! Took it out and welded a patch over it (could use a bung and silicone but I wouldn’t trust it). Don’t recall a second hole ? Weld it up anyway ?

Mines a 1991 2.5 na and I made mine up as in photo. Its not a genuine one but does the job in 3 feet of water. Parts as in list but all i used was the rubber elbows, piping is my own and connects to the air cannister. Entry through the wing was where a clansman was fitted, this was moved to the other side. Hope it helps you.

I agree with the consensus, my 1991 2.5 truck chucks out more than enough heat. Do the checks above and you’ll be roasty toasty once the engines warms up.

Rear fog lights are operated by a short stalk switch beneath the wash/wiper stalk. You can of course add your own dashboard switch if you don't have the original stalk.

its not my "working" garage, I couldn't get the truck in it! I'm lucky in having this one as well, which is used for something entirely different, Just ran the truck in here to charge the battery on the condition I mop the floor on the way out !!!

Fogs are beside indicators on my 1991

Sheer bad manners not to update with a solution...a pet hate of mine... Try the above solutions if relevant, else post full details and the guys should help, maybe start a new thread. Not my forte so I can’t.

Got to agree. Often there are numerous answers/suggestions and it would be nice to know which one/s worked, this would be a starting point for future problem solving. I just regard it as a courtesy to those that take the time to respond.

Goole search for an appropriate sealer, get the wrong one and it will blister up or lift off. You mentioned grinding so make sure insulatio is fire proof, look at kingspan foil backed or equivalent. I’d use a dpm, with roofing 2x1 treated battens, with the floor ontop. Consider a kicker plate around the outside walls of the shed to throw rain water away from the wall/floor joint. Get an estimate from a builder and pick his brains.....

You could try running with the cap off when you experience the problem. Usual over the top safety precautions should be applied. Clean out the sedimentor if fitted.

check tyres for damage, cuts and blebs.

I had a similar problem with no loss of fluid. New master cylinder sorted it. As Western says "if you change the master do the slave at the same time". I assume my master was failing internally, probbably seals?

Pinched from a previous thread https://www.shielderchassis.com/shop?olsPage=products&olsFocus=false See bottom of the page, might be an option thats worth a phone call, if you can wait and have the money.

Puts mine to shame....

They must be good, they are all "sold out" http://www.amaservices.biz/#/shop/4566748770

Crud?? thats nothing, I had a jellyfish in mine https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/98850-jellyfish-in-my-sedimenter/#comment-863319 Might be of interest for preventative maintenance.

Would it help to gently try an ordinary nut first. No pipe to get in the way, easier to see/feel if it starts to cross thread.

Also is more or less with the engine running. Is it oil vapour, smoke or is it steam?

Link might help plus a diagram

Undo the level plugs and with a bit of cable dip each box to see whats in them. You'll still have to deal with the leak though at some point.

Also see this thread for fuse explanation and MoD90 post on fuse ratings. May explain why you have a 35 amp fuse for a 15 amp continuous rating.

Go gas. Paintman sums it up. Plus, get plenty of good light on the welding seam to start the weld. Plenty of first class advice here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

Once you get the battery sorted and assuming its diesel, it would be worth checking the glow plugs are all ok & I assume you are running on “winter spec diesel” so that it’s not waxing, considering your location and temps. Both relevant to ease of cold starting.

Thanks for the input. I’ve decided for a quick fix of a brush screwed to the underside of the lintel sealing the door as it goes up and down. Boxing in the inside of the roller plus another brush is on the ‘project list’.