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mike1980

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by mike1980

  1. I'd recomend protecting the internals of the chassis, I replaced my chassis 10 years ago and used Dinotrol ML in the cavities, the only place it's rusted is on the rear x-member where I missed a bit.
  2. I had a ROW 300tdi chassis, I think this was pretty much TD5 but with 300tdi engine mounts. From recollection the differences are; Rear tub mount is a bracket on TD5 Rails under the rear tub are wider spaced on TD5 Fuel line clip hole size, larger on TD5 Panhard rod mount different size hole Where the lower front of the wings bolt to the chassis, there was some difference, but it's been a while and I don't recall exactly.
  3. Works fine for me, but then I don't carry heavy loads.
  4. I was curious about what progress was, so I had a chat with Martin at Pleiades, he's successfully got the unit apart, with a small loss of oil which squirted out, and is in the process of ordering seals for the ram. He seems optimistic that he can reassemble and recharge the sphere, and now he's found the refill hole, get the oil back in. Then it's back to reb78 for a test.
  5. After about an hour wrestling with google translate I've come up with; ZUL.BETR.UBERDR 250 BAR = Zulaessig betriebs uber druck 250 bar = permissible operating high pressure 250 bar ZUL.BETR.TEMP. +80C = Zulaessig betriebs temperatur +80C = permissible operating temperarature 80C STICKSTOFFULLDR:24 BAR = stickstoff fullen druck = nitrogen fill pressure 24 bar BAUJAMR 1983 FABR.NR = baujahr 1983 fabrizieren = manufacturing year 1983 There must be someone who read this stuff who knows German and can confirm this?
  6. I have a fairly rust free unit, so I can read all the stamped info, I've also mailed this to Pleiades. On the sphere: INTEGRAL HYDRAULIK TYP D 0.5-250 INH 0.5L NR:050-4315-014-611 ZUL.BETR.UBERDR 250 BAR ZUL.BETR.TEMP. +80C STICKSTOFFULLDR:24 BAR BAUJAMR 1983 FABR.NR On the ram case 6-4510-00-067-0 BOGE Made in Germany NRC 7050 NICHT OFFEN DO NOT OPEN Can anyone help with German abbreviations? It would be great if someone is close enough to them to drop a unit in, as I'm finding it a problem sorting out a packing case.
  7. I rang Pleiades today, helpful guy there said they had not done one before but would have a look, so I'm going to pack on up this weekend and send it to them, and see what they can do.
  8. Hi, Can anyone tell me what the Timken or SKF part is for bearing STC4382. Many Thanks
  9. I have the same problem as the OP, after some digging around I see that there is another alternative spring from a TDCi 110, ie RKB500300, tri-rate 270/315/406, does anyone have any opinions on whether this is an improvement on the TD5 RKB101111 spring?
  10. Well, it's an interesting point. The bolt head on my (1996) 110 says '10.9', mind you it was from Britpart, but I suspect it's the correct part as the previous bolt was an absolute swine to drill out. Depends on what you mean by 'fine', will the bulkhead fall off with and 8.8 bolt? Probably not, but I'm cautious and if LR think a 10.9 bolt is the thing to put there and it's not an inconvenience to get one, then that would be my preference.
  11. I'm pretty sure these are grade 10.9, not the usual 8.8.
  12. I also used an electricians fiberglass rod set, pushed the rod from front to rear and pulled the cable back. I spent some time taping the cable to the rod and taping round the connectors so they would 'blend' into the loom and not snag. The worst bit was getting the bulkhead connectors through the front hole, but it all worked in the end.
  13. It shouldn't be a problem, mine went OK, there are two versions of the bracket which connects the tub to the rear x-member, I had the earlier one which bolts to the outside of the tub, I think the later one bolts to the inside, just a cosmetic difference really. You may need hex inserts for the outer bolts, there were none fitted on my chassis. Rgds
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