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ToyRoverlander last won the day on February 12 2017

ToyRoverlander had the most liked content!

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About ToyRoverlander

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    Old Hand

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    Lr's, Cruisers, 4wheeling, modifying, mechanical stuff, camping, travelling, relaxing by a wood fire at a beaut camp spot

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  1. What Nick says. And FYI, even if the bendix seems to function as intended when you feel it by hand, it might still be defective. Often the feel fine but when torque is applied (bendix graps the flywheel, starter turns), it is sufficient to break through the one-way clutch of the bendix. Only way to find out if it still works is on a test bench where it's setup in such a way that the bendix can actually engage a sort of flywheel that can be loaded up. Or on the vehicle, when you know the rest of the starter is fine and you can hear it run but it just doesn't turn over the engine. A way
  2. You can get to to the brushes easily by undoing the long through bolts and undoing the 2 little screws and the endcap. Those always come loose. The 3 screws that hold the solenoid on are the ones that are always very tight. An impact driver is the answer here. Not something most people carry in their toolbox.
  3. A better idea would be to open it up and clean the brushes and collector with a bit of sandingpaper. Luckily those bosch starters are so easy to work on..
  4. That's not really good advice to be honest. Any oily substance getting onto the brushes and the collector causes sparking and rapidly, like in seriously rapidly, accelerates wear. Parts for those bosch starters are cheap and shouldnt be hard to find. In an emergency situation you could source brushes that can be made to fit and solder them in. Do clean up the collector when fitting new brushes. It's usually shiny and black and gives bad a contact. We clean them up on a lathe with the use of some sandingpaper. If the bendix is carp, well, there's no alternative fix than to replace it.
  5. Thanks all! I'm going to have a good look at what's doable. Not anytime soon at least, probably next summer.
  6. Thanks for the replies so far guys. Going down instead of forward, that's interesting. I'll have to have a look how much room there is for doing that. I can't remember whether the chassis rail sits below the clutch pedal or anywhere really close to it. It would involve placing the pedals in such a way that the throw of the pedals is still correct for the seating position as DeRanged mentioned above. I'm using a Series 3 pedal box with a 80s Range Rover booster and MC crafted onto it which makes for a very long combination. It required cutting the wing and a bit of the bonnet for clearance. So
  7. Trying to pick some brains here and see if someone comes up with a good idea. I already have defender seats, slightly more inboard and as far back as possible. My steering column (defender with aftermarket removable steering wheel) and steering wheel position is perfect as it is now. The steering wheel sits slightly higher than standard and close by. Plenty of room between seat and steering wheel. The problem is, I'm 6'7" more or less and my legs are in an uncomfortable position, basically my knees are pointing way up. This way my upper legs gets no support whatsoever from the seat. So you e
  8. I've already read about that vehicle, and those portals, so not much else I can say about it. Besides the look of the rims Interesting comment regarding the original trailing arms. Their diameter and wall thickness is not that impressive and the loads imposed by the portals is not insignificant. Something beefier wouldn't be a bad idea.
  9. This is probably the one you're talking about: Belongs to a Frenchman. It's a really cool truck, build thread is here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/118493-One-small-beast-finish-%28Defender-90%29-and-a-new-one-to-come-%28Defender-110-Hcpu%29-!
  10. I love the old LandCruisers, such a shame they're so ridiculously expensive, rusty and road tax here is insanely high for the heavy diesels
  11. Because of the large displacement they have lots of off-idle torque which is very nice. In standard form it is noisy and it is indeed very slow. With a turbo it is still noisy, but way more fun to drive and far from slow. They weight I'm not too concerned about. One big drawback is fuel compsumption, which resembles a teenage binge drinker. Anyway, to each their own I suppose .
  12. Especially with a list being that long. That's the 1HDT you're talking about, not the good old 3B. (the 13BT is better actually as it is direct injection so no precup issues, truly trouble free)
  13. Mine? Wasn't meant to be helpfull, just to summarize what was said I'm happy to know that my engine has only got 2 possible issues, the first is the most catastrophic but luckily the rarest problem which is a cracked precup dropping into the cylinder (what happens on 2.5NA as well). The second is that the valve rockers wear out where they touch the valve stem making it difficult to adjust valves and ends up in a bit of a rattly engine. Luckily it will age well despite that. Overall a truly reliable engine unlike any of LR's ofference
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