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ToyRoverlander

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ToyRoverlander last won the day on February 12 2017

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About ToyRoverlander

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    Old Hand

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    Netherlands

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    Lr's, Cruisers, 4wheeling, modifying, mechanical stuff, camping, travelling, relaxing by a wood fire at a beaut camp spot

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  1. Nope. But it's lifted a fair bit, it sits sprung over on LandCruiser 80series axles, Clearance is not a problem.
  2. I've been running 315's on 7J rims for 5 years now, daily driven. So your size is not a problem at all.
  3. Excellent choice! I've also got a 3B in mine, with turbo and intercooler. Pump turned right up. Totally different engine, heaps of power and lots of off idle torque.
  4. I'm not sure it actually mattera where the sliding joint is located. I've got a high angle front shaft with 180mm slider, which sits at the diff end. Been like that for about 8years now without problems. The rear shaft is a DC unit, slider near the diff. No issues at all. When the u joints don't bind and the flanges are parallel it's all good. If not a solution must be found.
  5. Everything is possible. Quite a large engine though. I hope you want to fit the rest of the cruiser drivetrain as well, as the Rover stuff might not live long.
  6. This is what I did... 25cm long spring perches. From what I read on US forums these seem to help to combat springwrap. Front axle shown but obviously the rear has the same. At the rear, the chevy 63" springs, have a rather thick short overload leaf. I think these things combined help prevent springwrap on mine, despite 400nm torque through a 80:1 reduction in 1low and 35" tires I haven't seen the axle moving noticeably.
  7. What Nick says. And FYI, even if the bendix seems to function as intended when you feel it by hand, it might still be defective. Often the feel fine but when torque is applied (bendix graps the flywheel, starter turns), it is sufficient to break through the one-way clutch of the bendix. Only way to find out if it still works is on a test bench where it's setup in such a way that the bendix can actually engage a sort of flywheel that can be loaded up. Or on the vehicle, when you know the rest of the starter is fine and you can hear it run but it just doesn't turn over the engine. A way
  8. You can get to to the brushes easily by undoing the long through bolts and undoing the 2 little screws and the endcap. Those always come loose. The 3 screws that hold the solenoid on are the ones that are always very tight. An impact driver is the answer here. Not something most people carry in their toolbox.
  9. A better idea would be to open it up and clean the brushes and collector with a bit of sandingpaper. Luckily those bosch starters are so easy to work on..
  10. That's not really good advice to be honest. Any oily substance getting onto the brushes and the collector causes sparking and rapidly, like in seriously rapidly, accelerates wear. Parts for those bosch starters are cheap and shouldnt be hard to find. In an emergency situation you could source brushes that can be made to fit and solder them in. Do clean up the collector when fitting new brushes. It's usually shiny and black and gives bad a contact. We clean them up on a lathe with the use of some sandingpaper. If the bendix is carp, well, there's no alternative fix than to replace it.
  11. I too looked at the eccotemp one, found many good reviews on various US sites. You could do a search on expeditionportal.com.
  12. There's an adapter available to bolt them to a 700r4, that would be the route I would be tempted to take if I were ever to fit a 606 in mine. With another adapter the 700r4 bolts to my Orion Tcase. The 700r4 has massive aftermarket support and can have TC lockup in all but first gear.
  13. As for Heims, I'm using the ones from Ruffstuff offroad in the US, very good quality Heims! After 4years of daily driving, in winter as well, there's still no play in them.
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