ToyRoverlander

That's to cancel out ANY sideway movement of the axle, leasfsprings are lengths of spring steel with a curve in them, so they can move a bit left and right. I can imagine in a race car you want as rigid/solid a suspension as you possibly can. It would be a very bad idea on a 4x4 as the panhard will try to push the axle sideways, fighting the springs. It's like a panhard on a double triangulated 4link... terrible idea!

An anti wrap bar will take care of the spring wrap. Bumsteer is an issue when the suspension is lifted a lot. There's not many options out there to lift a series so unless you've gone spring over axle you shouldn't have much bumpsteer. You sure you're not confusing bumpsteer with steering kick back caused by a massive scrub radius dus to very wide, lots'o offset rims on a narrow axle? Only fitting a wider axle without ridiculous wheelspacers and or huge offset rims will fix this. Parabolics, especially when having the rears up front, in combination with GOOD quality shocks ( I use Bilstein 5125) rides VERY well! Very comfy and LOTS of articulation. Way more than any coiler. I've now got 63" chevy pickup springs at the back which are really incredibly soft! It should ride like a magic carpet now

I bet you wished you'd went with a P38 box instead now. Lots of issues this way it seems..

I wouldn't let that hold you back. A def/disco/RR one is already longer than a Series one (a series one will be too short). And if the length isn't right you can cut it in half and sleeve it. Drill several holes where you can plug weld it and weld it at the ends. My steering rods in above pics are 1.5" x0.25" wall DOM tube. Cut to length with tube inserts welded into them for the heims. I'm not at all worried about it somehow failing.

Better quality.... less prone to leaks... And very easy to fit as the bolts sit right above and under the chassis rail. So no drilling/hacking needed.

I would sell those 2 pas boxes and get a decent one from a P38. Make sure you get that steering shaft as well. You only have to make the mounting on the chassis, the rest is just plug&play. I just fitted one to my chassis. A fair bit work to make the mounting but I wanted it to be very strong as I'll be running 37's later on. Here are some pics.. The bottom bit underneath the chassis is exactly the same as the bit on top of the chassis..

Ok..... interesting! Better be sure to post some pics of all this, I'm quite curious how this is going to turn out

Why not do it right and extend the chassis? There's absolutely NO downside to having some more articulation from the front than from the rear. You'll actually notice that it is quite pleasant as the body stays WAY more level over rough terrain as the front axle is now actually capable of some articulation. That said, I'm fitting 63" long chevy springs on my 109 to improve rear articulation to match the front... just because I can . Hilux leafs are way flat as a Hilux is sprung over. Spring under, as yours will be, need some arch in the springs or it will sit practically on the bumpstops.

Fair enough

So cummins makes carp engines....and you say so because you have seen a single motor, that could just possible be a crappy neglected one just like any engine can be, that your mates stuffed into a LR and runs rough or whatever.

This is the one I'm going to use. It's very simple to install... remove old steering wheel, slide adapter onto steering shaft....weld.... done. Here's a pic from the side so you can judge how tall it is. I have no idea how it compares to a standard setup. I've got it from Polyperformance.com. It's a PSC steering wheel, these get used a lot in rockcrawlers, desert racers, whatever... Very solid simple push pin to unlock and remove.

Oh wait.... I read the original question again and then it struck me..... you have fitted replacement front spring hangers... did you weld them into the original position or did you move them forward to accomodate the extra spring length? If they are in the original position and you fit rear spings to the front the front axle will sit 8" further back! That's not going to work.

Ok... well... try to get the spring as flat as you possibly can. Short shackle, large shackle angle, flat springs.. lowering the front mount a bit if needed... Basically, do whatever you can to get that spring as flat and on as little angle as you possibly can. Take your time to figure out what needs to be done to accomplish this. Keep us updated too with some pics if you don't mind. So the bellhousing crossmember sits right at the same spot where the shackle bush would be in the chassis?

Good spotting It now sits spring over axle as opposed to spring under. It also has a leaf less. On the left it sits on 2leaf rear parabolic springs. Same springs as in the pic on the right but with a leaf removed. That's the reason why there's a lot less curvature in the springs. That also a reason that the shackle sits on a greater angle. Another cause for that is that the chassisbush sits a tiny bit further to the front to deliberately create a bit more shackle angle. You hit the nail right on the head. That's exactly why it behaves like that. Because the whole spring pack is at such a great angle, when the spring compresses it not only moves up but it also moves back way more than it would when the spring sits flat.. When the spring sits flat it can transmit the driveforce from the axle to the chassis a whole lot better than a curved spring that sits at such an angle can ever be able to. That's the problem with, for instance, climbing hills. The front end will unload a bit due to weight transfer and becomes more curved. The part of the leafpack that sits in front of the axle will now be very curved and on a steep angle. Front axle drive will try to push the axle forwards and by doing so effectively unloading the spring even more. Plus it's actually moving forward, when it loses grip it will shoot back....retain grip, move forward again.... shoot back... you get my drift. That same angle of the leafpack is also the cause for huge brakedive. You hit the brakes, the axle pulls on the springpack and compresses it. All this doesn't (hardly ever) happen with a flat spring.

You want to place a C-channel underneath the chassisrail for the chassisbush? If so....... DON"T do it! It is carp! I used to have it on my 109" Pic below.... left as it is now, right as it used to be If you do that you get a LOT of brake dive, and lots of 'slap' in the steering as you hit a pothole as the axle steers (moves back on the side where you hit the pothole as the spring compresses) a lot in this setup. Also, offroad, it unloads very badly , especially on steep climbs, as the axle tends to 'walk away' under the vehicle. Also you would need a huge slipjoint in the driveshaft due to huge fore-aft movement of the axle on compression and rebound. Basically..... don't do it... Fit the chassis bush in the chassis, the right distance behind the old bush.

Perhaps Jeep springs? I believe YJ springs are a popular choice. But why just 2" shorter? Why does it matter?

As above. What springs are you fitting? Rear springs up front? And what shocks?

It has happened in the US as well a while back...

I HATE tubes. They rub through from friction against the tire, valve stems can be ripped out at low pressures.... I would never ever ever ever use tubes again. I run 255'85 KM2's on 7J rims at 14psi. I NEVER had a problem. Never had sand or dirt or whatever between the rim and tire causing a slow leak. I never ever popped a bead, and I love to do rockcrawling with it so the tires do get some pretty severe punishment. My next tires will be 37-12.5-17 on 8J rims. No beadlocks... And I don't expect any issues. Get some narrow rims and don't use tubes would be my advice.

Pretty nice isn't it ...I'm quite pleased with it. Although I have to say that I would like a bit less reverse arching. Though I've never snapped a leaf, and this spring pack has been fitted for about 2 years now I think.. This is just a combination of quite soft springs and 14" travel shock absorbers. Springs are 2leaf rear parabolic springs with a cut down old front parabolic leaf as 3rd 'helper leaf'. Add lots o' weight on the front end and on compression it bends the hell out of it. One big downside.... even genuine polybushes last about 2 maybe 3 offroad sessions when there's lots of flex needed from the suspension. They get cut up very badly very quick. Rear articulation is less than at the front but that will be sorted soon with even longer leaf springs.....

Nice! Good result! Now it's time to go radical..... I flexed the front end of my 109" to the absolute max yesterday What you can't see is the other side, wheel pushed inside the wheelarch, top of tyre gets right up inside the wheelarch extension.... plenty of uptravel thanks to massively reverse arching spring. Those cheap paddocks parabolics are tough as nails...

Sand colour. That's what I thought looked best... You just have to picture the limestone wheels in your head

Yes you can bolt them back on like this. The military wrap on the second leaf prevents it moving about.

That could be part of the problem too. If the bolt is seized solid to the inner sleeve, the rubber still being fine, and you having to use a 3ft crowbar to be able to fit the springs to the shackles, all that tension is resisting the springs wanting to compress and swing the shackle backwards. Doesn't help. Removing a leaf from the rear packs will work too. That's 33% less spring rate then. When I removed the 4door stationwagon upper body and fitted a softtop the back end came up about 2", there's a LOT difference in weight. But mine's a 109, not an 88.

That would be the older style H55 you're referring to. Those have the tendency to jump out of 5th on overrun when worn. Those are not fitted behind 1HD-FT(E) as far as I know, only behind 1HZ. 1HDFT(E) would have a H150/H151 IIRC.