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uninformed

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uninformed last won the day on May 12

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About uninformed

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    Gold Coast, Australia

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  1. Australia is an Island surrounded by saltwater 😉 the only rust I’ve found in my chassis so far is overlapping sections that are not sealed, ie fully welded. The fully welded sections are completely bare (no treatment) and are fine. But those inside pieces are terrible from that perspective... Given the chassis rails are only 2.5mm thickness at best and those angles are only spot welded in, going to 3 would be a good strength increase without too much weight added (removing the internal angles) and would have reduced labour costs. Im pretty sure Jeep were hydro forming thei
  2. They probably could have made the main rails out of 3mm and not needed the angles lol god bless LR 🤦🏻‍♂️
  3. Thanks, looking at that and the other links within, it appears the chassis has angle inside the corners of various parts of the main chassis rails but not completely throughout. not bad from a structural point of view and weight saving but terrible for crevice corrosion.... 😬
  4. Hey all, I’ve just found some rust in the main chassis rails behind the transmission cross member in my 1998 300 Tdi 110. It looks like I can see spot welds along the top of the web just below the corner and of course there will be some crush tubes of sorts behind the 3x M8 bolt holes. Trying to figure out what’s in there to form a plan of attack. cheers
  5. I have both Radius arms to pretty much the same point and am just waiting on some more laser cuttings. These are coming with the rear cross member pieces. In the meantime I started fabricating a new transmission cross member. On the 300Tdi the cross member and the lower mounting brackets hang below the chassis rail. It looks like the original 4 bolt mounting points from the earlier 110 has been kept and then they added the 3x M8 holes further back. There is room for the RHS to move upward, flush with the bottom of main chassis rails. I removed the lower bracketry that was already buckled from
  6. Yes all TIG ( or GTAW ). The engineer is looking for two main things with X-ray, the quality of weld and penetration.
  7. That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes)
  8. Thanks, and I hope so. With limited budget , equipment and materials you can only have strong OR light, not both. 32x10 top and bottom flanges. 2x 4mm plate webs with 20mm separation. 4mm plate laminations (I still have to do them at axle end). All flanges to eye bosses are full penetration welds
  9. Thanks. im not concerned whether it looks good or bad, my concern is getting the eye bosses true and square, on centre measurement, on “caster” within the arm itself and then make the second one identical. Even with a thought out procedure, pre heating and jigging, there was always going to be distortion. I have “heat straightened” this one into alignment. But it still has a little more welding to go and of course the second one has to be exactly the same...
  10. Just the standard pin type. The eye/bush is fine but I prefer the rotation the pin gives.
  11. Not much to add but have got a bit done on my Radius arms. Still not finished and still not safe from the scrap pile...
  12. even 150k on the crappy 2 pin factory Rover type diff is not great. There are a LOT of variables but I can remember reading Tdci owners getting multiple diffs under warranty. It seems LR really dropped the QC with the last of the Defenders (As seen with changes in parts that had served well enough for decades, like the centre diff in the LT230)
  13. The Tdci first gear low range ratio is about 65-1, the Td5 is about 43-1. The Tdci would have to be on substantially larger tyres for those to even out.... like 48” tyres with the Td5 on 32”. So you will never be close unless you change gearing (either diffs or t/case) if you want factory Td5 gearing on 35” you would need a 3.87 diff ratio. Ashcroft make a 3.75, KAM (AllMakes) make a 3.8, and Great Basin Rovers make a 3.9...
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