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uninformed

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About uninformed

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    Gold Coast, Australia

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  1. I would doubt they be the same as Coil sprung land rovers as there are differences in threads etc. I did manage to look through some old Series manuals, but they are a bit hit and miss compared to the later manuals for torque settings. The stub axle to swivel housing bolts are 3/8 BSF, im yet to find a TS for those. The king pin is also 3/8 BSF and says 50-60 lbf.ft The steering arm has 7/16 BSF studs, that if have been removed, need to be replaced and installed to 40-50 lbf.ft with loctite 270 and then when actually installing the steeering arm and doing up the nuts, 50-60 lbf.ft.... so thats a little odd
  2. Hey all, Im looking for the torque settings for the front axle swivel assembly for a SIII Stage 1 V8 Stub axle to swivel housing King pin Steering arm. Thanks Serg
  3. Just to confirm, Western is on the money. Front Defender vented rotor calipers require gallery seal 3851-739. They have an inner steel tube to support the seal, this does NOT come with the seals. Re use from your calipers. I bought mine from Shop4autoparts when i rebuilt them in 2013. Never had a issue with many kms put on them. BTW when I went to a local LR dealer (here in Australia) they couldnt even find the part number.
  4. Nice build. Lots of work going on and lots to think about. 👍 Regarding your housing spacers, what material have you used for them (if aluminium, what series)? Did you machine a spigot on the axle housing side (like swivel ball has)? You could machine chamfers of appropriate sizes on the matching spigots/recesses to allow for O rings and that would be a help in the LR oil battles and be slightly better for joint strength sans any gasket. Im doing something similar, but are'nt confident in the 7 bolts so will be welding the spacers in place as well. oh and dont forget that one of the 7 factory swivel bolts is a dowel bolt that pins the swivel on castor etc. cheers
  5. Excellent pictures, thank you. The only thing I could say, with your animation vid, if the time for each part being added was a touch longer. but great work none the less. Now you just have to do one with Ashcroft ATB and one with MaxiDrive low range gears 🙂
  6. It seems the later Defenders had better quality shocks than the earlier, which is suprising since LR decided to cost cut everything on the Tdci's
  7. Surely it says on the can when fully dry and ready for re coating? And those times are within a given temp and humidity range. Id say it would be at least 24hrs for full drying before painting over with your colour. Try googling the brand and type of paint you have, they should have tech info on site
  8. Well the floor rivets are 1/4” or next closest size. I drilled out with a 6.5mm drill bit and it didn’t quite remove stem.
  9. So I’ve started dismantling my 109 Hardtop tub. Can anyone give any info on the solid rivets used? Availability, tooling? I will be completely pulling apart the tub for modification cheers Serg
  10. Hey all, Im custom building my 1998 Defender 110 300Tdi Cab Chassis. It came as a truck cab, no rear tub etc, the body finishes at rear bulkhead. I have a series 2 109 Hard Top rear tub that im going to use to convert it to Truck Cab Pick Up. A few things before suggestions are fired off. 109/110 hard Top tubs are not growing on trees here in Australia.110 Hard Tops are as rare as rocking horse.....110 Pick ups even more rare. While a series tub will pretty much bolt up to a 110 (As I understand it) The wheel arches are a different shape and in a different postions. Fuel filler presents a problems also. It seems in Australia (at least) We did not go rear fuel filler until Stage 1 V8. NOTHING is standard on my 110 except wheelbase. I am making the cab and doors longer. I will be shortening the rear overhang to somewhere between 90 and 110. Looking at my factory rear bulkhead (when compared to a series tub), it has a 3mm steel angle plate, full width, bolted to the underside, at the mounting points. This has 2 welded tabs with a single hole in each, these pick up a flat bar gusset that bolts back to the chassis. These are located very close to the seatbelt retainer mount brackets. Ignore the flared holes as I put those in. My rear bulkhead also has a little more strengthening at the door latch. It has more holes in the inside bottom section for the seat belts and has some stays behind the seats that go up to the underside of windows, under the gal capping. I saw a pic in another thread of a Td5 110 2 door tub. Underside looked more like the series without the steel angle plate. Series and the Td5 tub would not be able to use the steel angle plate as they have the triangle gussest spot welded from the vertical mounting section to underside of tub.... So what thoughts on which rear bulkead to use? Even if I use the series 2 one I have, ill have to remove and reinstall it into its new location.... Ive added some pics to hopefully help.
  11. Thats there choice. I have my build on Instagram. I chose that out of all social media (this is social media too dont forget) I wanted a place to diary my build (for myself) and be a idea for others if they wanted to do anything similar. Its a great back up if I lose my phone/computer etc.Its also helpful for my engineer. I can do it straight from phone much easier than doing a build here. I have problems with LR4x4 on my phone as it is. Anyway Ill go ask in the Defender section.
  12. Good stuff 👍 , and probably the best engine LR ever made. Could you take some detailed picks of the underside of the rear tub, front end. I have a 110 truck cab, cab chassis. The body finishes at rear bulkhead. It has a metal plate sandwiched to the lower section that bolts to the chassis/body outriggers. It looks like the 110 tub has braces or gussets to the underside, so this would not be possible. Im converting a 109 series tub to my 110 and am probably going to use the 110 rear bulkhead, as it has more mounting holes for seat belts etc. cheers Serg
  13. Thanks @western Some good info when clicking on the individual paint colours. Its hard to pick though lol, colour representation in small areas and on computers is always a bit false. Also the only good examples on the internet are fully restored LRs and lets face it, they look bloody good no matter Mid Grey, Marine Blue, Light Green. Heck I even like the old Sandglow and Bahama Gold as colours for a LR. Has anyone got good pics of the dark grey that was available on SIIA i think?
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