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Everything posted by uninformed

  1. even 150k on the crappy 2 pin factory Rover type diff is not great. There are a LOT of variables but I can remember reading Tdci owners getting multiple diffs under warranty. It seems LR really dropped the QC with the last of the Defenders (As seen with changes in parts that had served well enough for decades, like the centre diff in the LT230)
  2. The Tdci first gear low range ratio is about 65-1, the Td5 is about 43-1. The Tdci would have to be on substantially larger tyres for those to even out.... like 48” tyres with the Td5 on 32”. So you will never be close unless you change gearing (either diffs or t/case) if you want factory Td5 gearing on 35” you would need a 3.87 diff ratio. Ashcroft make a 3.75, KAM (AllMakes) make a 3.8, and Great Basin Rovers make a 3.9...
  3. Just had a quick look at what I had laying around from my 98 300Tdi 110 A frame to chassis are 3/4” grade 5, A frame to ball joint connection are 1/2” but I don’t have original so won’t comment on grade. Radius arm to axle are M16 class 8.8. I no longer have the factory bush at axle for trailing arm so can’t say what that is. Grade 5 and class 8.8 are the same UTS - 120,000 psi
  4. Oh and a word of warning regarding aftermarket replacement bolts for our LRs. I recently bought some replacement bolts for the swivels, the double hex 12.9. These were stamped 12.9 and came with a larger head (17mm instead of 14mm) They also appeared to be galvanised. These bolts were DEFINITELY inferior to the original factory fitted Atlas brand, and well below the SHCS I had (probably only Brighton Best, if that!) I did some destructive tests with them all (snapping them) Where possible, I try and reuse the factory bolts, or buy the equivalent size etc in a known bolt brand. One thing t
  5. Clean up the heads, they have markings that will help you identify their grading/class, which in turn will also identify if they are metric or imperial. If they have numbers stamped on them (with a decimal place) these are the class and they are metric. If they have dashes radiating out these are the grade and they are imperial. From my memory, the A frame arms are 1/2" at the ball joint bracket and 3/4" at the chassis, the later being grade 5. The trailing arms are either 16mm or 5/8" at axle ( I can not remember which, again check head) The radius arms at axle again 16mm or
  6. A lot of brake parts catalogs had this error in them. Seems they still do...
  7. What parts have you changed since pulling it all apart , when presumably, it was all working correctly?
  8. I disagree first of all, if discs were cheaper every 4x4 Ute/dual cab would have them in the rear! That’s Ford,Mazda,Isuzu,Nissan,Toyota etc. And you have even supported my argument where you write “less thermal sensitivity”. Re read what I wrote, drum brakes are good for one off braking event , or for that matter, holding power ( I prefer drum for the transfer brake) but they fall behind discs with repeated braking, mud, water etc. We don’t drive in a paper world, Real world data from heavy industry has discs stopping shorter than drums. “The main s
  9. Just a note: if it’s a 300Tdi Defender, turning the “heater” on does nothing to change the coolant flow. The coolant is flowing through the heater matrix 100% of the time (there are no valves/taps etc) Turning the “heater” on simply diverts air over the matrix via a crude flap operated by the cable lever. The heater matrix is however higher than the thermostat housing bleed and radiator fill point, hence why LR have the dicky bleed valve in the line to expansion tank. Bleeding the air out can be a bit of a bear sometimes.
  10. The Salisbury 8Ha has a much bigger and stronger differential. The hemisphere is a better design with 4 pinion gears rather than 2 in most P38 and Rover type diffs. The pinion is also offset (Hypoid) making the already larger pinion head, larger again by nature of gear design. The cast centre housing is very strong but also very heavy. It is also harder to work on as the differential centre does not bolt in/out. (You need to forcibly spread the cast casing to remove the differential). It also has less ground clearance than a P38 or Rover type. The Salisbury in the 110s had
  11. The RRC/D1/Def Radius arm bush separation is 6.5” or 165.1 (sound familiar 😉). I’m not sure of the D2, but while it is greater, the bushes are a larger dia so the difference in bush separation won’t equate the same difference in gap between the forged eyes. The D2 arms are about 100mm longer so will improve geometry over the RRC/D1/Defender arms (and they actually articulate better even though more bush separation) . But with portals and bigger tyres Anti lift will still be very high. Id mount then below the chassis rail like the D2 regarding double calipers at front vs s
  12. Well I was going to mark out the rear tub (Series) wheel arch and cut it to form the Defender shape. But after asking a few of the local 110 guys with bigger tyres and negative offset rims if and where their tyres rub on the body work, it seems I will have to wait until im a roing chassis and can cross articulate my set up. With my wide track and 130 rims (+20.6mm offset) it puts me at the equivilant of -56.4mm offset (from +33). Even though ill only be running 255/85R16 as daily tyres, the arc the axles swing may well have them fowling before tucking inside. Also looking at the Series vs Defe
  13. Good work Monkie, something I will have to tackle on my build at some point. Did you just use your old looms to get the lengths for each section? Mine is a 98 110, But Im thinking of running the TD5 led warning light set up and digital speedo signal. And thanks to those that added the links to the Factory wiring diagrams.
  14. ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points.
  15. If you go back to page 2, you will see my rear tub is picked apart, waiting to be modified to suit my application. It is just a standard Series11a LWB tub. I will have to reposition/reprofile the wheel openings first, then shorten front and rear to suit. It will be assembled the same way LR have done it, though my wheel wells may be a touch higher, the lower floor may be a touch narrower.... And it will be mounted the same way LR mount their tubs, that is, to the rear cross member, rear bulkhead outriggers and load bear on the chassis points. I might be using the Defender rear Bulkhead with al
  16. I bought a new pintle , found some safety chain clevis pin and blocks from a Perenti and have done a little more design work on my rear cross member. I also picked up the parts from the electroplaters.
  17. Don’t worry, I’ll be using exterior wood glue... I like the 110 wheelbase. Wheelbase/chassis extensions are common here with Toyota 79/200 series. Usually 300mm. I like the size of the 110. I know the 90 is seen as the off roader and the 110 as more a worker, but to me the 90 is too short, and not just for space. LR should have pushed it to 100” in the 2000’s
  18. It would be interesting to see the profile of the super duty axles, im guessing only be 10xx material but probably forged and in the dia you will have, most likely fine.
  19. Interestingly LR (as you will know) went back to a fabricated housing, driven partly by MOD vehicles bending/breaking rear Sals housings. I think the main reason the SIII got the Sals standard in 109s was due to differential not housing failures. I’m sure there was conversations between LR and their supplier (Dana Hardy Spicer/GKN what ever guise it was at the time) and that’s what they could offer them in a here you go package) It has been known, and I have seen a few myself, for the Salisbury housing to fail where the tubes meet the cast centre section. Mostly on 109/110 housings (HD110
  20. Some of the so called Made in the USA crown wheel & pinions are not actually made there ...
  21. Some of their products are still made by M R Automotive in Redcliffe, Queensland. Warren, one of the owners is a long time friend and customer of the original MaxiDrive. They make axles, drive flanges, track rods, drag links , A frame ball joints , LT230 low range gears and some other bits. The diff locks are not being made but I already had those parts.
  22. I got a few little things done of late. I managed to get up to Maxidrive and order my new axle shafts for front housing. Ill also be getting them to custom make some drive flanges. I finished the drag link and track rod tapping and slitting. The small groove indicates the left hand thread. They will be electro plated. I also picked up a Series drop down tail gate (my tub didnt come with one). And Ive started the drawings for my rear cross member. I still have to sort our trailer chain lugs, recovery points and jack hole locations. Ill get the main C section laser cut and folded for this.
  23. 150-200mm. I would like to shorten it more, but everything is a compromise. As for necessary, nothing is, but thats not the point is it 😉... and the packaging, well ill also need to find space for hydraulic oil reservior, solenoid control valve, pressure relief, inline filter among some other goodies as well.. 😄
  24. Unfortunately the rear bulkhead is literally just in front of the new A frame cross member. No one ever accused me of taking the easy road 😂😂
  25. I had thought about that but kind of ruled it out due to a few reasons. First, I still have to check with the engineer If sill tanks are legal (being outboard the chassis structure) , secondly given the changes to suspension and body mounts, and links it may not fit without a lot of work. Thirdly, pre Td5 90s (and even then Td5 90s were only a couple years and very rare) were never sold in Australia so I would have to import a tank. If I can have a sill tank I’ll probably make it my secondary, fabricate it out of Aluminium and have its cross section triangle shape so it slopes up from
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