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uninformed

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Everything posted by uninformed

  1. Maybe oil seal? there should be a spacer on the cv input spline end of the inner drive shaft, and a spring clip on the end that retains inside the cv star. Of course without stripping no one knows. the other maybe is the diff side gears have spline wear where they run, tapping the unworn section in further May have made it grab??
  2. @twodoorgaz The FRC7577 is not Genuine, but the other two are. From L-R FRC5926 ~39mm overall length - 11.5mm FRC6137 ~44.4mm overall length - 15.5mm FRC7577 ~59.6mm overall length - 18mm My 130 rims are stamped ANR5593, though I do have 14 of them so may have different types lol.
  3. @bishbosh feel free to bore me 👍 20mm plate was chosen as it’s the max thickness that comfortably fits the 3.2Tonne shackles I use. 10mm mounting plate was gut, 4x1/2” bolts because that’s good enough for a pintle should be fine for two combined recovery points. 0.75 weld size rule was given to me by a engineer. Hopefully with good practice the welds will be mostly in tension. I don’t compete so set up time is not a real issue.
  4. @missingsid @Dr Strangeglove they have the mounting plate in the vertical plane, recovery lug in the horizontal plane, shackle hole is vertical. The hole is offset so the resultant force line continues through to the centroid of the chassis rail/crossmember attachment. The welds are mostly in tension, the only bending moment would be any vertical change in height of the recovery line ( but generally very little) The welds are TIG, as with all my work on this build.
  5. They are at least 10mm if not more protruding through the factory nuts. (Have a look at landroversforever pic on page 1 or 2) Sidewalls definitely don’t stop foreign objects striking wheel nuts, wheel face etc. As for the look, I was more referring to the wheel nuts you suggested to cover the stud. but let’s just put it down to reducing unnecessary unsprung mass 😂😂
  6. @Blanco Im guessing those would be 'stick' welded. While 'stick' doesnt get the hype or glamor of 'Tig' there is nothing wrong with it in the right hands. The range of rods available and its ability to be welded in all conditions make it still the go to in many critical applications. I have only done it a few times, but have a great appreciation of it. @miketomcat @landroversforever I understand the hesitation regarding welded recovery lugs. The way I see it there are many critical components on our LRs that are welded and see high cyclic loads (fatigue) and we dont give them a second thought. While there is some "controlled enviroment" they certainly are not 'NASA' spec. For a welded joint such as my recovery lugs, the general rule of thumb is that since the it can have a full fillet weld right around the lug to mounting plate, the fillet weld size (leg length) should be a minimum of 0.75 the thinner of the two materials. In other words, the weld will equal/exceed the strength of the mounting plate. Another view point (may or may not be moot) if we look at the volume of the 3.2tonne bow shackle pin that is in sheer, it has a 19mm dia pin, 20mm in the lug. Thats 5670mm3. The fillet weld (that is in tension) at 7.5mm leg length has a volume of 9281mm3 These recovery lugs are to always be used with a bridle (both lugs used at any recovery) So no, no notch etc, only the fillet weld you see.
  7. I got my recovery lugs welded up, bit ahead of myself there lol, but they came with the laser cuttings for the new rear crossmember and the radius arm infills. im also working on another gearbox crossmember, I wasn’t 100% happy with the other one, but will see how this one turns out 🤷🏻‍♂️ recovery eye is 20mm plate, mounting plate is 10mm. 2 passes at 180 amps.
  8. I’m trying to apply good engineering practice not bodge it up, hence why I swapped out the later hubs and stub axles for earlier versions. As above, cutting will only be painful once.
  9. Apart from looking like a lipstick on a pig, just something else sticking out more and a little more prone to damage. Cutting them will only be a pain once.
  10. Yep. Not a fan of them without the taper. I wouldn’t machine one on them either, head is already smaller in OD and thickness. Here is a comparison of the AM 50mm FRC6137, a AM FRC7577 (Wolf/HD) and genuine factory FRC6137 the longer FRC7577 has the taper and an even thicker and larger head than the genuine. It will be a bit of a pain to cut 25 of them shorter but that’s life.
  11. I will add, the new replacement stud has a head that is 1mm smaller in outside diameter, and the factory studs have a chamfer or taper under the head that seats in the hub, the new replacement does not…
  12. Just got my order from shop4autospares. I emailed them telling the 2 different studs supplied and if they could supply 25 of the 50mm studs. They were able to. No different part number unfortunately. Looks like it’s just the old near enough is good enough these will do from their supplier. Well for once it’s a win. @landroversforever my guess is you were supplied a 50mm stud for the part number FRC6137.
  13. In good practice, if a bolted joint is to be loaded in shear, there should be very little to no threaded section in the joint. Definitely doesn’t happen in reality, but it’s why aircraft bolts come in 1/16 increments of grip length. I also try and buy bolts by grip length and cut off the excess thread. That’s why it’s better to stick with the genuine LR bolts under some circumstances as they are not what you can buy off the shelf as far as overall length vs grip length.
  14. Class 8.8 are carbon steel grade 8 or class 10.9 (and higher ) are equivalent to 4140 Rolled threads are definitely better than cut, and it use to be thought fine pitch stronger than coarse (larger root dia, more progressive torque) but the reality is, they can get more of a true radius in the valley or root of the coarse thread than the fine, hence the fine actually having a higher stress riser. for high tensile bolts and a threaded hole in mild steel I’d like 1.5 times dia. In practice if you have equal material in nut and bolt, the nut height/length only has to be 0.65 times the bolt dia as long as there is one full thread (right around) protruding the back side of nut.
  15. I don’t know why you would want to go back, only 7.50/16 mount reasonably to the 5.5” rim. 235/85R16 crown too much on them. The 6.5” is stronger, has a better offset and gives you a wider tyre size range with good fitment.
  16. I just received my order from Shop4Autoparts. FTC4111 is the same bolt I was looking for. M12 with a 22mm hex (head) new aftermarket bolt looks ok but not as good as the new genuine I had above as a sample. The AM one has a thinner head by ~1.2mm, is ~0.2mm smaller thread major diameter. No stampings of any kind (class or maker)
  17. Good God! 🤦🏻‍♂️ so I just received my order from Shop4Autoparts FRC6137 x25 aftermarket. I open the pack and pull the first one out and think , hello, this looks a touch longer… yep, 50mm overall. Then I open the pack more and bugger me , there are two different types, 5x the longer 50mm and 20x the standard 44.4 replacement. This is just too funny 😂 I will say the standard 44.4 replacement look average at best but the longer 50mm look a nice finish and at least stamped with 10.9 and an identifier Pack as received The 2 different studs from the pack. 50mm left, 44.4mm right. The 2 new and 2 genuine factory studs from my previous replies. The heads of the 2 new studs. 50mm left, 44.4mm right.
  18. I’m fabricating a new rear crossmember. These will bolt to the web (rear vertical face) right through with HD crush tubes ( LR version of crush tubes in the chassis are under done)
  19. Here is the mounting plate and recovery lug I designed for my build. 12mm for the mounting plate, 20mm for the recovery lug. They get welded together. Then of course crush tubes in the cross member. Two of these, and the bolts are either side of the chassis rail. Designed to be used with a bridle.
  20. RUF500010 is listed as 46mm and 39mm depending on which retail site you’re on…
  21. @landroversforever I don’t doubt what you are saying as far as what your photos represent. But the only way to be sure is to check measure the variables original wheel studs your new wheel studs and the hub itself. there is clearly something different going on between yours and mine. It’s “probably” the hubs, but a small chance it’s different wheel studs Way too much miss information on the web and that is driven by assumptions among other things. Its totally up to you whether you can be bothered going through the exercise, it was easy for me as I had the parts in my parts bin.
  22. Only way to know would be to knock one of the new ones out, measure it. And to compare your hub with mine 🤷🏻‍♂️
  23. Electrolysis is not an opinion. Different Steel make up and it’s attributes to a given task are not opinion. If it makes you feel warm and fuzzy, go with it. I can not with good conscious recommend it.
  24. I’ll never understand the British obsession with stainless steel on LRs. Bloody horrible stuff Poor choice for wheel nuts as above. but just for your info they are M16 (metric) not unf on coil sprung LRs.
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