uninformed

Hey all, I thought I'd post up some bits of the start of my hydraulic press build. It is based on the usual H frame style with some differences to suit my needs. It will be good for 50 tonne. Yes I probably should have just bought one, but I got all the beams for free and the cylinder is brand new, USA made at a good price years ago. The types I can buy would also not be as versatile due to my space restraints. a couple of examples: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P147 https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/P152 50 tonne SPX Power Team cylinder - 13" travel single acting. 50mm thick cylinder mounting plate sourced from an engineering firm. I oxy'd the hole and took it to a workshop to get machined to my specs. 25mm thick plate with hole oxy'd ready for machining. This will locate over the top of the cylinder and engage both head beams.

👍 👍

My only experience is with the construction industry. Columns only have drain holes at top and bottom and these are not that big. Looking at some images, the tanks have some inlet pipes at one end and a hole at the other on the top of tank. If it is hung so one is top and other bottom as its dipped it might be ok? I would much prefer Gal dipped or SS than a coating that could very easily delaminate and contaminate the fuel system. Sorry for the side track

Thanks, I misunderstood. They are still a seperate skin on frame.

Maybe a stupid question but why not get the tanks galvanised?

Sorry to sidetrack, where can I see images of these one piece style doors. I was unaware and thought the later a similar construction just different materials. Cheers

I’ve used Shop4Autoparts a few times over the years but seems my very helpful contact has moved on. I’ve also used P A Blanchard but of late they have not replied to a few emails which means I don’t get information to proceed with a order. Their lack of photos doesn’t help as we all know part numbers are not always correct. Others I’ve come across are RimmerBros, John Richards Surplus and Paddocks of course.

Well at least that’s a heads up. 👍

Well that’s not great…. Would have been either CC or PayPal, so hopefully if needed I can get out of it. I’m clearly not in need of them next week but it would be nice to know I’m going to get what I paid for, and that was my biggest order to date.

The LRDirect order went smoothly. They communicated quickly they did not have one of the parts in the brand I chose, and give you options. It was shipped promptly. The only downside for me is the shopping cart only stays active for one session on my computer, that is, if the computer goes to sleep that cart is cleared (doesn’t happen with others) For me, shopping lists don’t happen in one sitting. Lots of cross checking part numbers, pictures, the vehicle etc.

Agreed, it will be a ‘suck it and see’. I nearly went down the expensive path of DDE military light fittings, new polycarbonate “Sputnik “ lenses and LED globes. I guess the various failures I’ve had with factory lights have pushed me this way. Water in lenses, fittings and plugs. Stop/Tail twin filament globes getting hot and melting the bayonet fittings (lose contact and deform permanently). Poor lighting. UV/sun damage is definitely something here in Australia. So as you say lenses will be the test. Im still considering going a 95mm NAS style for the indicators to emulate the SIII NAS layout. Headlights will be conventional globe .

My only problem with that is even the genuine brand have poor quality plastics, fittings and plugs. At least a complete LED unit is somewhat sealed.

It’s a new year mate, and you can only move forward 👍. You’ll get through this nut of a problem and back to the Mogs when time is right.

Whilst I am happy to modify most things lol, little things like that I prefer plug and play. Since my 110 is a Truck Cab, the washer reservoir only has one pump and one hole. I ordered a reservoir which is the same shape/size with twin holes and now have a pump for each washer head (running the DDE twin jet twin head setup). Hopefully it will suffice. Did your pump just push in and fit the reservoir? All my steering stalk switch controls are Lucas and if there is a good branded choice or genuine is reasonable I go for it. Unfortunately most punters have voted with their wallets and determined the market 😕

Unfortunately what’s our choice 🤷🏻‍♂️. The two BP boxes are washer jet pumps. Other than the ridiculous price of genuine (that’s even if available) items like these seem mostly the same. Is there going to be much difference in their junk vs Bearmach etc ? How many different manufacturers of this stuff are there and how often are they the same piece? I’m definitely open to suggestions.

Me too regarding the wallet but sometimes the pain is less than having to buy again and go back in to fit something… Thats not great to hear regarding JCs. I’m pretty sure everything said in stock but in this day and age means little. Was a reasonable size order as well…Time will tell. Any other recommendations?

In true form I had been starting to think about shock mounting, which lead to looking at the inner guards which lead to looking at the bulkhead, and the "oh yep I really need to start a parts order" quickly became "I wont think of everything, so just bloody order anything I can think of"... Bulkhead grommets, washer/wiper bits, lights, door locks... It mostly pays to order more than less with regards to shipping and being on the other side of the planet. Though I do think LRDirect took the tiddle a bit. I can say that Bryan from DesignDevelopemnt Engineering was very helpful! Now while its probably years before I need this stuff, there are many reasons to order - To break up the cost over the build. LR parts only go up in price or become unavailable. To have on hand when needed (who wants to wait when we finally get to the good part of the build) Christmas goodies 😃 LRDirect DesignDevelopment Engineering - beautifully made bits that should last (rather than the usual plastic and pressed metal junk!) LEDs from Amazon. NSLumo branded, no idea of quality but have the look that I'm after (well partly, as ill be doing some 95mm NAS size lights as well , inspired by SIII NAS vehicles) Gywn Lewis still waiting on my JohnCraddock order, not even sure if its left yet......

Well not much to update really (unfortunately things don't always go to plan). Now you might be wondering how did I go from chassis fabrication to diffs to seats, with these unfinished and everything in between not done lol. There is some method to my madness ( I think....). Generally Ill be doing something which means removing a part or going into my storage of bits, then I usually come across some other particular bit and start to think about where that is headed...I also know I need to order lots and lots of parts, the vehicle is 23 years old after all. In truth I had started the seats refurbishment before I took the 110 off the road. I bought another drivers seat and removed the passenger to do them at the same time. I hate rust!!...I REALLY, REALLY HATE RUST!!! My seat base and frames had started to rust, in part because of where I live, in part because of my lifestyle and in part because of their design and finish. So I set about to rectify that. I drilled holes for drainage and pulled apart what bits I could and had them hot dipped galvanised. The seat rails I drilled out the indented stops and on reassembly replaced with rivets. i had to buy the next size down ball bearing due to the loss of clearance from the zinc. I really wanted to do the backrest and mechanism but due to its moving parts and assembly (welds done after bits have been assembled) I was unable to strip it down with the ability to reassemble after Gal. Sure it could be done, but required a LOT of work and probably some equipment I don't have. Well on one of my distracting bits and bobs search, I came across the box of unassembled parts and remembered only assembling one seat (It is also fully refoamed and retrimed sans the head rest). Being as I wasn't happy with the conditions where they were, I figured id finalise the second........wasn't I wrong! lol. It turned out the second drivers seat I had bought was slightly different (not much in it but enough) and that put a end to that. Luckily I had not thrown out my original, so out came the rule and drill bits. I also pulled apart the head rests and thankfully they can be left alone and just galvanised. I have a crate of bits to be Gal'd and there will be more as well so its not the end of the world. Bits about ready to go together (only to find out that base frame is not suitable) Passenger seat assembled and ready for retrimming. Drivers seat base frame drilled and ready for a quick prep before it goes of to Gal with other parts One of the head rest frames. These will be fine as is to go to Gal.

I had one to fit to my 110, but it never happened. It may this time round. I can say, here in Australia, even the best synthetic oils last MAX 20k kms. That’s looking at them with oil analysis.

I think you might be confusing the needle bearings in the stub axle that support the later CVs ( possibly as early as 90 on the RRC, but about 93-94 for the D1 & Def’r). I’m 99% sure there is no support bearing of any kind for the CV end of inner shaft at the swivel ball, in any of the coil sprung variants. (RRC, D1, 90,110,130)

@Snagger I’m not 100% but I think the bearings in swivel balls was only up to Series 3, ie uni jointed half shafts. Stage 1 and all coil sprung LR do not have any support for the CV end of inner shaft other than the CV itself. The bronze thrust sleeve found on the early RRC does not support the shaft in any way other than inward thrust (no spring clip to retain it to the CV).

It is not uncommon for shafts to be made from material like EN26 that just get machined and that’s it. The material is supplied as normalised (I think that’s the term) and is fairly strong. Most of these materials can be improved in strength and hardness by the appropriate heat treating though. So maybe yours can be machined easily? Regarding welding, while some chromoly is fairly easy to weld (like 4130) a lot are not. The types that would be used for a shaft will , at least, require the correct filler rod/wire. A specific pre heat temperature (also monitoring during the weld process) and immediate post weld heat to a specific temp for a specific time (depending on material, thickness, size etc). And some will specify that the weld will not be as strong as the base material. As for grinding the splines, If you mean with a angle grinder….. good luck and I’m out. 👋

What do you mean the splines aren’t hardened?

You don’t have enough length in the outside diameter of the longer shaft, and they have been heat treated so machining will be a pain and the new machined splines could suffer inconsistency in hardness. Just machine clean up your damaged shafts. Double check your CVs not just size but how freely/smoothly does the star move around etc

If your wheel bearings and steering stops are adjustable correctly , I’d say you need to check the old and new CVs against each other. Your shim/end float may have been excessive?