uninformed

I figured the relationship between spring height and castor change was a given…. But there are factory specs and I thought maybe someone new the specs for the Tdci. The 3 as new Tdci at the dealer, all in stock form, showed the same gap between TR and RA regardless of the bump stop gap/spring height. (130 being approximately 100mm and the 90s being closer to 75mm) The fully restored RRC definitely had a closer gap, (by the ~10mm) as with the restored 1997 camel trophy 110. As I stated, I have, and are trying to eliminate the variables. Track rod dia has been accounted for with data collection. Again I have specified stock radius arms, no offset bushes or slotted/rotated swivel balls. For the RA bushes to be worn out enough for the TR to RA gap to reduce by ~10mm on a Tdi, the vehicle would be undriveable. And across multiple vehicles seems unlikely…..

Yes when I get a chance I’ll do some part number trolling, but as you say, number superseding and random changes could be a problem. I would suspect a possible number change regarding swivel housing (maybe) when they went from Tdi to Td5 with ABS as the ABS sensor passes down through the top swivel pin. Whether it’s just a change in the pin, swivel ball , housing or all 3 I don’t know….

I have compared my 1998 Tdi Defender and Disco 1 96-98? Swivels, both TRB of course. I have been given TR to RA clearance measurements from two more 300Tdi Defenders. All are the same. I noted the difference visually (no tape measure unfortunately) on three separate Tdci’s (130 & 2x 90s) whilst looking at a display at the local LR dealer. I had that confirmed by a Tdci owner with measurements. Conditions were - must have stock radius arms, no slotted swivels or offset bushes. On flat ground, steering in the straight ahead position and no articulation. There is definitely something going on. Castor change may just be a byproduct of pinion rotation….

Possible for sure. I’d love to know the castor and pinion angles of a stock Tdci. That would provide more information. Given that LR were stripping out by way of cost cutting many bits on the Tdci, I’d be surprised if they made whole new castings for the swivel housings (maybe it was just a change in machining, but why would the keep the castor, pinion and housing the same and just clock the swivel housing?) Having the RA brackets clocked around a few degrees would not cost much other than the initial change to design cad and this would provide a pinion angle change, and as a by product, castor change. a lot of guessing though…

The front radius arms have inherently more roll stiffness than the rear link set up. In essence the front is a big anti roll bar. Fitting one to the rear only can balance the front and rear roll stiffness.

Hey all, I have come across a difference in the front ends of Tdci to at least the Tdi Defenders. There is a larger clearance between the track rod and bottom of radius arms on the Tdci versions. I have checked and the radius arms are the same depth at the point where the TR passes under them. So I’m wondering if there was either a pinion or castor change (or both). I was thinking maybe pinion change due to the different drive line angles of the Tdci. The difference is approximately 8-10mm which would equate to at least a 2.5 degree castor change (more) thoughts?

👍🍺

Wheel track.

Got the Nissan bushes pressed in (really need to build mine) and bolted the arms and housing up. Castor and pinion are on point. 3 degrees at ride height and pinion is spot on for the double Cardin shaft. still lots of clearance checking to do and double check.

A little bit of Sunday work.

No. that’s a added 4mm infill plate (both sides) over the top of the main webs. Looks worse than it is because I gave a quick sand and it highlights the highs/lows due to the heat discolouration left in the lows. But it is also not as pretty as the main web passes. Pre heat and no peddle makes it a little more tricky. They will do the job though.

Finally finished the radius arms. But still have to install bushes, check fitment and axle alignment AND pass inspection. I probably should finish building my press too 😬🤦🏻‍♂️

I have no doubt that road salt ( I’m guessing for winter?) will increase the speed and severity of corrosion, but it happens without added salt. I’ve found it between the gal cappings and brimabright panels on the IIA tub I picked up from out west and here is a heavy mild steel base plate that has suffered it badly due to SS acorn nuts. This steel structure has no other rust or corrosion and sees only rain and tap water.

Ah ok. it just seems some people think you need salt water or electrical current for corrosion or electrolysis to occur between dissimilar metals

Why do you say salt water?

Something else to think about is cylinder bore size vs shaft size. Displacing more area for less oil and it also affects valving. Not something I’d want in a dampener.

Fox had/have a great reputation. They use to just do pro shocks, then added a second, lower range but still quite good. It seems the last couple years has seen them reduce custom service of their pro shocks (though still support racers) and have gone hard in the OEM fitment world with shocks that are a fair bit away from their pro shocks.

Interesting they are only 40mm piston (according to the specs) that’s under done compared with standard shocks from Bilstein/Koni let alone the bigger versions or starting into off road shocks

Sorry mate, I’m in Australia. They are easy to get hold of here last time I checked. Funnily a lot of Aussies were importing the 90 series Raids from the UK as they were cheaper.

If it is a non county version (that is, no load leveller) they will be fine and are a good dampener. They do have somewhat of a reputation of being a little harsh (low speed bump valving) The others to consider are Koni. They offer a bolt in range in their 82 series, and based on their truck range, 90 series. Some people have found 88 series (bigger piston/cylinder than the 82 but a touch smaller than the 90) and had them valved to LR specs.

Maybe oil seal? there should be a spacer on the cv input spline end of the inner drive shaft, and a spring clip on the end that retains inside the cv star. Of course without stripping no one knows. the other maybe is the diff side gears have spline wear where they run, tapping the unworn section in further May have made it grab??

@twodoorgaz The FRC7577 is not Genuine, but the other two are. From L-R FRC5926 ~39mm overall length - 11.5mm FRC6137 ~44.4mm overall length - 15.5mm FRC7577 ~59.6mm overall length - 18mm My 130 rims are stamped ANR5593, though I do have 14 of them so may have different types lol.

@bishbosh feel free to bore me 👍 20mm plate was chosen as it’s the max thickness that comfortably fits the 3.2Tonne shackles I use. 10mm mounting plate was gut, 4x1/2” bolts because that’s good enough for a pintle should be fine for two combined recovery points. 0.75 weld size rule was given to me by a engineer. Hopefully with good practice the welds will be mostly in tension. I don’t compete so set up time is not a real issue.

@missingsid @Dr Strangeglove they have the mounting plate in the vertical plane, recovery lug in the horizontal plane, shackle hole is vertical. The hole is offset so the resultant force line continues through to the centroid of the chassis rail/crossmember attachment. The welds are mostly in tension, the only bending moment would be any vertical change in height of the recovery line ( but generally very little) The welds are TIG, as with all my work on this build.

They are at least 10mm if not more protruding through the factory nuts. (Have a look at landroversforever pic on page 1 or 2) Sidewalls definitely don’t stop foreign objects striking wheel nuts, wheel face etc. As for the look, I was more referring to the wheel nuts you suggested to cover the stud. but let’s just put it down to reducing unnecessary unsprung mass 😂😂