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uninformed

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Everything posted by uninformed

  1. Yes I’m making the cab bigger by ~200mm. By way of longer doors though. Extra cabs don’t really solve the ergonomic issues. So the rear of cab and seat base all get moved rearward and I’ll need longer floors and the structural sills .
  2. Yeah, the factory bracket didn’t have the offset I needed so was going to fabricate four. I did one, then used the factory ones I had, mocked up the tub bulkhead clamped to the outriggers and found how flexi they both were. Probably fine for the application but I figured stronger, lighter and no bolts had to be better. And probably less work to be honest as those bolt on mounts are fiddly to make…
  3. Thanks, and yes lol. its on page 1, to be fair though its not like it was last month 😂
  4. Still working towards the rear cross member final bits, I got the back of cab - tub bulkhead mounts welded in. Lots of back and forth, measuring and re measuring but got there in the end. Once I had them tacked in and happy with alignment I bolted some SHS right across both then a couple of braces welded to it and the chassis. Kept it all pretty good and they’ve come out straight and true. These welded mounts eliminated the factory bolt on style, and more importantly the fiddly rubbish nut plates that go up inside the outriggers and rust out etc. And a nice little benefit is my welded mounts are 150g lighter per side than the factory style I was thinking of doing…
  5. Not sure, I wouldn’t have thought much, for two reasons, the original RRC sat pretty low and the links were fairly flat. Panhard and drag link were on a downslope to the axle , but again not much. 2, the engineers got a lot right with the RRC all in all and I figure they would have factored that in?
  6. You realise that the factory set up has the drag link longer than the panhard to begin with, now add 120mm to the already longer drag link but keep the panhard standard….
  7. All good to have a laugh, but get the geometry wrong and you’ll definitely feel it. And given the time and effort involved to modify it, you’d be Mildly miffed if it was a backwards step.
  8. Good to hear, but my brain is still unsure lol. The drag link has to be at least 175mm longer I would have thought, that’s a 20% increase in length. Surely this changes the arc it scribes? maybe it’s unnoticeable to the feel? It’s something I want to plot out full scale anyway.
  9. Going by the crown wheel bolts (and they look factory) it’s post 98. They look like the good ones that only ran 3-5 years before the change to a lesser quality flanged head bolts. Prior to those in the photo they are not flanged head bolts.
  10. No experience with them sorry, but just a general experience, the trailing arm mounts I got were only partially welded where as the factory ones are fully welded. They are made from two overlapping formed plates. Where the inner laps inside the outer they are seam welded. The AM version I got only had 3-4 sections about 20-30mm welded. I cleaned them up and welded them out before installing. Point being take a close look at what the factory has done and try to replicate that if it isn’t.
  11. Here you go Dave, My rear cross member is 46~47mm below the load bearing points. My tub rear mounting angle has a 13mm gap from top of cross member and bottom edge of angle. This AM angle is a touch bigger than the old Series mounting angle. 32mm vs 29mm. And I found this in my files, after the fact for myself of course lol…
  12. Ok so the 109 tub should have the similar setup at the rear. That is, the main rear mounting angle (sort of M shape), then on top of that there is a small transition angle (sort of Z shape), then the floor. I have Series tub cross members so they will be the same, and apparently same as Def’r anyway. I’ll measure my main rear mounting angle as I think it a touch bigger than a 109 version…
  13. But they did not delete the step near the back on coil sprung LRs, not 110s anyway. Hurbie posted some pics in my other thread in the Defender section. No idea why LR did not delete that step? Probably a case of tooling etc but just silly not to.
  14. Good point oneandtwo. I think I might be making my wells higher again so probably have to modify either.
  15. Thanks 👍. If the Def’r seal is better I’ll stick with that set up. I was able to get my 1/4 without light holes to give me options. They are 2mm which is nice 🍺
  16. I have new side panels and new rear 1/4 panels. I’ll be using a secondhand Defender cab chassis rear of cab (Tub bulkhead). I’ll make my own floor from new aluminium, I have new floor stiffeners and old Series tub cross members. Wheel wells will be made from scratch as well (the floor and wheel wells need to be formed around the damper mounts. Basically buy the formed panels and do the easy straight folds etc. What tub are you using? 88” or 109” as there are differences between the two that may affect that measurement. at the moment I’m about 13mm gap between the top of my cross member and the bottom edge of tub rear mounting angle. I’m pretty sure this profile is bigger than the factory old Series type…
  17. Legend! Interesting.... I can only imagine that that little step in the wells was to clear under the lower light on 109s. No idea why LR carried it over to the 110 as they dropped the lower light to the bottom of the rear 1/4 panels. Its just more work and not as structural as straight through...
  18. Thanks again @hurbie, looks like LR did something different with the tailgate seal from the Series type? Unfortunately I cant see either in person. Those pics are quite helpful thanks. The only other thing I was looking for was from inside, showing the top of wheel well where it butts into the rear 1/4
  19. Thanks Steve b, I know of SP and Paintman. No idea if they are the same manufacture. Ill have to shoot some emails I think to find out material and thickness. Im open to any other recommondations as well
  20. Hi all 👋🏼, who sells the best Series rear quarter panels? Im building a custom rear pic up tub for my 110. It will have a tailgate. I have some Defender style panels but they don’t have the little fold up the tailgate seal like the Series do (among a couple other things) They are 2mm thick verses the original Series 1.5mm which is nice. Hopefully some of the AM Series versions are? Cheers, Serg
  21. Before I can finish the rear cross member, I have to make sure heights are correct as the rear chassis ties from top of cross member to top of chassis rails will also form the rear load bearing points. first was to get the bulkhead in what should be it’s final position. You can not adjust the height or move it left or right given how it’s mounted. You can adjust with packers back and forth to square up. And you can adjust the vertical tilt with packers between the bulkhead to front chassis brackets. Mine was out of level a bit, so I offset the holes going from 1/2” to 14mm. This got me within 2mm and still left plenty material around the holes in both the bulkhead and outriggers. I also had to make my heavy duty sill/slider mounts as these pick up the bulkhead. I will be welding a bit of 5mm flat where the X is with it hard to the bottom of the mount. This to stop the mount rotating around the bolt as the slider is offset. (A common point missed in aftermarket sliders) After getting the bulkhead sorted for height and square (fortunately it is only 1mm of centre left to right 🙏🏼) , I then had to play with the rear of tub set up, to then set the tub bulkhead height, to then check this in relation to floor and load bearing points. I still have 2 factory load bearing points each side so needed around 27mm between them and floor. The rear of tub consists of the main mounting angle, which sets the height of floor, end panels etc. It was a matter of taking a guess , clamping it altogether, then pulling a string line from the front bulkhead to rear end panel ( in the corner where the curve meets the vertical ) and then adjusting the height of the tub bulkhead until it met the string at the same point. Then check the gap between underside of floor to load bearing points. I feel I have it close enough to move forward and fabricate the tub bulkhead mounts. Then I can bolt this in its proper position (just bodged in place currently) and it’s my reference for load bearing heights. Of course, constant checking throughout the process will continue….
  22. @hurbie thanks heaps mate 👍. What year and what vehicle?
  23. Fuel pump accessibility isn’t a concern for me. Still keen on the measurements I’ve requested.
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