Oberon

Here's the link to the webpage http://www.towcar.eu/ if you complete the information required it should come up with the same reports. It was the last two comments that gave rise to concern. Cheers

Hi all, I currently drive a ‘04’ plate Freelander, that we have owned for the past two-years, and use it to pull our 1500kg caravan. I have to say that I am surprised by its reliability and pleasure in driving, though she struggles a bit with the van. That’s why my wife and I are looking at a ‘54’ plate Discovery TD5 at our local LR Dealers. It is as good as new with only 48K on the clock. Yet, I am a bit concerned with some of the write ups on a particular towcar website; the last two not being very complimentary at all to the TD5. Can anyone throw any light on this subject? I used to own a Discovery TDI but I had many problems with transmission rather than engine problems but I understand they were prone to engine failures owing to timing belts. Does the TD5 have this arrangement or is it timing chains? Does anybody else tow with a TD5 and finds it acceptable and that their vehicle is reliable. I would appreciate any comments or thoughts; cheers in anticipation. Mike

Well changed the turbo boost solenoid today and, dare I say this, it seems to have worked. Engine runs smoother and the gear change is smooth and manages to get to top gear without having to break the law. I have to change the fuel filter and pump housing as my clumsy attempt (all though a lot of people have had the same experience) broke the plastic housing, The new, genuine, filter is ready in the housing but I am wondering now is it necessary to install a new LR fuel pump. I suppose the funds will dictate that one. Has anybody purchased and fitted a Britpart pump before? They are half the price as LR but I am very wary of replacing parts with non-LR parts now. As an addition, I brought a CR2 chip box from ebay. I fitted it this afternoon after I was convinced that the problem had been solved and hey what a diffence. Have to say the instructions for installation were pants but when I sorted it out I have to say the performance was terrific on the test run. Not sure how it will 'pan out' but so far i'm delighted.

Thanks for the advice. I think that I have may have led you to believe that I am a bit heavy on the throttle; this is the reverse in my case. When I mention the high revs I am actually stationary. I very rarely get above 80mph and drive very conservatively, but have lately I have pushed her a bit harder to test the vehicle's performance. I could be wrong, hence the reason I am seeking other opinions, but i believe that the problem is engine not gearbox related. I still am of the opinion that it is a fuel related issue. Following a thread from another fella with a similar porblem who fixed it by exchanging the boost solenoid I am having this changed tomorrow and also having the turbo hoses checked for security and integrity. It might, or might work, but at just over £50 it's worth a go. Then its considering another, this time genuine fuel pump and filter, then failing that changing a fuel HP sensor on the end of the fuel rail. Failing all that, PX for something else. Cheers for the advice; however when she is on the ramp tomorrow I shall get them to check the gearbox oil level; Ta!!! Mike

Thanks for the thought, but unfortunately the old pump was disposed of a while ago. Not sure if you've replaced a pump before, but it's not exactly a job you want to do in the hope that the old one will start working again. As I said this new pump works and has solved the problem to some extent but it is not as good as before and I have a feeling that this non-Land Rover pump is not good enough for the task. Cheers again.

I’ve just returned from abroad (work) to continue the saga with the ‘04 plate’ TD4. Previously, I had the lack of power and the Management Light came on at only 3500 revs. Also, the P1260 fault code came on with diagnostic equipment attached to it. Following some good advice from folks on this site (much appreciated, I fitted a new fuel pump (the one behind the OSR wheel arch) and filter. However, being a bit tight at the time, I fitted a non-genuine (cost £60 compared to a genuine LR pump at £200) pump and filter to the car. OK, power has resumed, although not great, and the management light does not come any more but I’m not convinced the problem is completely solved. Incidentally, I replaced the Fuel LP sensor too, but to be honest I don’t think that that hasn’t made much difference. Although I have no problems starting the car and it ‘ticks over’ nicely, I’ve noticed that the gear change (automatic) is not as smooth and it labours to get to top gear. On a 40 mph road you have to increase speed to 50 then ‘ease up’ and it drops into top gear. I’ve also noticed that the fuel consumption has increased too. Could it be that the cheaper pump is not sufficient and adequate for the job? Has anybody else had this problem? Could be a case of false economy!!! Also could it be another problem; HP fuel sensor faulty? I would be obliged for any advice or comments.

Hello all, Many thanks to those with tips and advice, especially FOZSUG for his suggestion and direction of the fuel pump/filter housing. It arrived before christmas and is assenbled awaiting to be fitted. Strange how Britpart managed to supply one to me witin 3-days whilst LR claim there's no in the country and had to scour Europe to try to find one. Now that I have the new housing I am strongly thinking of fitting a genuine pump and filter when I fit it to the car as although the initial problems have abated, Engine Management Light on at 2750 revs and the despirate lack of acceleration, it still seems to lack the zip it had a few months back when I changed the crankcase filter and added the REDEX to clean the fuel system. I have also read a thread on the Turbo Boost solenoid as a possible cause of poor acceleration and I may try the Fuel High Pressure sensor wiring too. The new wiring or Jump Lead as LR refer to it cost just short of £35 with the VAT. There does seem to be some wheezing and whistling as you press the accelerator so maybe turbo vacuum hoses could also be worth looking at. Any other suggestions from anybody?

That's absolutely 'spot on' cheers for that I have ordered one and will let you know if it is correct. Again, many thanks. Regards mike

Well, against my better judgement I changed the pump and the filter yesterday, amongst the snow. What a job. Looks and reads easy in the books but once you get into it, ‘Holy Moses’. Maybe it was just my motor but it wasn’t as straight forward as the books suggest. One of the two bolts holding the plastic pump and filter assembly was a nightmare to undo; and why is it that motoring manufacturers feel it necessary to cramp as much as possible into a small space? My next problem was to get the old filter out!!!! A few invective words at the side of our road during this operation; It was struck solid. In the end I had to drift it and use a pair of stilson’s to help it out. Surely that can’t be right. The pump came out no problem but the replacement (not a genuine part) pump was not exactly the same, minutely smaller but fitted ok. That’s when the second scene of misfortune came about. The replacement filter (Unipart) was fractionally too big and proved to be right g*t to get into the plastic housing; so much so as it eventually made its way into cradle the plastic cracked on me and also snapped the earthing connector off. After much pi**ing about I managed to assemble it and get it ready for a test run. I’m not entirely sure if I have sorted the problem out really. Yes, it does respond better, yes I can rev it up into the red zone without the Management Light coming on but on the Motorway this morning I could just about make 90 -95 mph. Its OK virtually no traffic about and road was clear of snow and ice. I intend to replace the plastic housing in due course and get another filter too; might also, funds permitting, get a genuine pump next time. Does anybody know where you could pick up one of these housing? Also what is the maximum speed of these cars? Cheers to those who wrote in with advice. Mike

Cheers I appreciate your help. I'll let you know how I get on. Mike

Thanks for the advice. Which fuel pump would you suggest that is defective as I understand therrea re two, one in the fuel tank and the other with the fuel filter behind the front wheel arch, I think. Is there any way of isolating the problem and getting an accurate diagnosis. Cheers Mike

Hi All, This is my first post and I would be most gratful for some advice before approaching the LR dealers. I have a TD4 MK 1 LR Freelander 04 plate; Since the 'Cold Snap' began a few weeks ago I have been having problems with a lack of power. It first showed itself one morning when I was unable to get above 20 MPH and the Engine Management Light (EML) came on. I drove her back home and tried later. However, although I managed to get to move a little faster she was very sluggish and when I tried to 'rev her up' the revs would not go beyond 3750 and the EML light would reappear. I dosed the fuel with REDX and gave her a good 100 mile spin but to no avail; she struggled to get above 85 MPH and that took ages and 'died a death' up a slight incline. I have had her put through a diagnostic machine and a constant code of P1260 fuel pressure sensors shows. I managed to locate both sensors and thought of using the process of ilimination; as the Low pressure sensor is the easiest to disconnect I tried that first. To my surprise the revs shot around the clock. Believing this to be the problem I continued to run without he sensor connected for a few days and today 13th Dec 2010 have had the sensor replaced. However, the problem is still there. I recently cleaned the EGR and looked at the MAF, which seemed clean. I have recently had a service and the fuel, air and cranckcase breather filters have been exchanged so what can it be? Any clues anybody? Mike