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honitonhobbit last won the day on June 23

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About honitonhobbit

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    Grumpy old fart
  • Birthday 02/21/1867

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    Sedgemoor Somerset

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    Stuff, stuff and more stuff

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  1. With an MoT coming up, I've been checking out my '93 model year prior to the test as I really hate it failing. I've had a few issues over the last few months with the indicator dash warning light. Firstly it got a bit random and then failed completely. However the trailer warning light was fine. No indicator warning light is an MOT fail Replacing the bulb is not straightforward. It's a total pain in the backside unless you have 8" long fingers, each equipped with an extra knuckle. I had to take the binnacle apart anyway to remove unused radio switches and to replace two back light bulbs (Lucas LLB286 12v/1.2w and available in LED form ). The binnacle is easy to take apart - four screws, two under the top lip above the instrument cluster and two under the bottom lip below the instrument cluster. To swap the warning light bulbs out , you need to remove the four retaining screws for the cluster then gently bend up the metal frame to slide the lugs out AND undo the speedo cable. This is a bit fiddly. BUT and it's a big but, before you do this pick up a spare flasher relay - preferably Hella but the Bearmach option is quite well made - and swap out the old one. This is a five minute job. The unit is behind the panel that accesses the fuses and is on the RHS of the steering column. bend the mound towards you to make it easy to slip the old relay out. You'll most likely find that sorts your problem!
  2. They used to make good copies, but like so much now, the quality has really gone down
  3. I know. It's quite frustrating to have found something that you know is right, that does the job properly and doesn't cost the earth; then to have it simply disappear due to lack of sales/interest. Britpart do make a copy but it's really not very good, goes soft really quick
  4. If I wasn't married, I would take that adaptor out for drinks and a meal...
  5. I know him quite well. SuperPro Europe are based in my village
  6. Like I said before Pete, drop it down to me, I'll take it down to the farm and we can use it in the workshop heater
  7. SuperPro body mounts are very good
  8. After years of swapping trailer boards around, I bought a set of CE approved LED magnetic trailer lights (and a magnetic number plate). They are brilliant. Solid state, well made, bright... Only 21 quid delivered from China
  9. Depends - it would be very early , say T plate - this could be early but not that early
  10. H stands for High Ratio (road use) N stands for Neutral, basically divorces the drive from the gear box to the props; ideal for warming the gearbox in really cold places L stands for Low Ratio (off road and really bad road use, along with reversing trailers and difficult manoeuvring) I take it this is a an early D2 on a 99 plate and you have not central difflock...
  11. I would suggest that if you have a sensible budget, find the best D2 you can. Have it professionally checked by a reputable and knowledgeable person. Check the service history. Buy an auto, then have the engine tweaked - for example IRB Developments do a Towing Tune for the TD5; I had one on my last D2 and it makes an enormous difference in driveability. Budget for replacement parts and a damn good first service. Black Paw 4x4 over in York have a good reputation and are about 60 miles from you. Spend your time looking though. Use 2/3rds of your budget for the vehicle and save the rest for the service
  12. Bearing in mind where you are, why not stick with a Toyota Alternator - most have vacuum pumps Then if that's not enough, fit a vacuum resevoir
  13. I would agree; alternatively Devotech from D4x4 are actually Eibach springs - so very good. A Bilstein is a good shock any day
  14. Your issue is, with a D3, that it weighs slightly more than the Titanic, so to legally tow the max (or have the potential to) you can't actually carry anything heavier than a down filled pillow and a small Jack Russell