Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by honitonhobbit

  1. With an MoT coming up, I've been checking out my '93 model year prior to the test as I really hate it failing. I've had a few issues over the last few months with the indicator dash warning light. Firstly it got a bit random and then failed completely. However the trailer warning light was fine. No indicator warning light is an MOT fail Replacing the bulb is not straightforward. It's a total pain in the backside unless you have 8" long fingers, each equipped with an extra knuckle. I had to take the binnacle apart anyway to remove unused radio switches and to replace two back light bulbs (Lucas LLB286 12v/1.2w and available in LED form ). The binnacle is easy to take apart - four screws, two under the top lip above the instrument cluster and two under the bottom lip below the instrument cluster. To swap the warning light bulbs out , you need to remove the four retaining screws for the cluster then gently bend up the metal frame to slide the lugs out AND undo the speedo cable. This is a bit fiddly. BUT and it's a big but, before you do this pick up a spare flasher relay - preferably Hella but the Bearmach option is quite well made - and swap out the old one. This is a five minute job. The unit is behind the panel that accesses the fuses and is on the RHS of the steering column. bend the mound towards you to make it easy to slip the old relay out. You'll most likely find that sorts your problem!
  2. They used to make good copies, but like so much now, the quality has really gone down
  3. I know. It's quite frustrating to have found something that you know is right, that does the job properly and doesn't cost the earth; then to have it simply disappear due to lack of sales/interest. Britpart do make a copy but it's really not very good, goes soft really quick
  4. If I wasn't married, I would take that adaptor out for drinks and a meal...
  5. I know him quite well. SuperPro Europe are based in my village
  6. Like I said before Pete, drop it down to me, I'll take it down to the farm and we can use it in the workshop heater
  7. SuperPro body mounts are very good
  8. After years of swapping trailer boards around, I bought a set of CE approved LED magnetic trailer lights (and a magnetic number plate). They are brilliant. Solid state, well made, bright... Only 21 quid delivered from China
  9. Depends - it would be very early , say T plate - this could be early but not that early
  10. H stands for High Ratio (road use) N stands for Neutral, basically divorces the drive from the gear box to the props; ideal for warming the gearbox in really cold places L stands for Low Ratio (off road and really bad road use, along with reversing trailers and difficult manoeuvring) I take it this is a an early D2 on a 99 plate and you have not central difflock...
  11. I would suggest that if you have a sensible budget, find the best D2 you can. Have it professionally checked by a reputable and knowledgeable person. Check the service history. Buy an auto, then have the engine tweaked - for example IRB Developments do a Towing Tune for the TD5; I had one on my last D2 and it makes an enormous difference in driveability. Budget for replacement parts and a damn good first service. Black Paw 4x4 over in York have a good reputation and are about 60 miles from you. Spend your time looking though. Use 2/3rds of your budget for the vehicle and save the rest for the service
  12. Bearing in mind where you are, why not stick with a Toyota Alternator - most have vacuum pumps Then if that's not enough, fit a vacuum resevoir
  13. I would agree; alternatively Devotech from D4x4 are actually Eibach springs - so very good. A Bilstein is a good shock any day
  14. Your issue is, with a D3, that it weighs slightly more than the Titanic, so to legally tow the max (or have the potential to) you can't actually carry anything heavier than a down filled pillow and a small Jack Russell
  15. Personally I stay away for the boost pin idea. It's an Audi 2.5 profile. Dumping a shed load of fuel into a diesel will produce power and black smoke (not really power but feels like it). But its not good for the engine longevity and the power spread is messed up. With careful tweaking it's easy to get the same power gains but still have longevity - but that takes time and effort
  16. Years back when I was into tuning NAD diesels, I used a company in Stoke called Chase Engineering. They did some work on an XUD9 I was being silly with. They new there stuff and were pretty good.
  17. I had the bronze valve guides anyway - I bought a head refurb kit from Elring (Direct) and went for the bronze valve guide option. Ian, I'm surprised you don't have someone up that part of the world who does this sort of stuff. Hamlyn's are good but they are not unique. I'd be tempted to see if ACR can recommend someone
  18. Pete Drop it down to Martin at the Davefest Farm - he will burn it in his workshop heater - and no doubt owe you a favour
  19. To be honest this was why I let the professionals do it. I ported a few bikes over the years, played with a few four cylinder car heads. But I've had good and bad results. I tend to think it's better to go somewhere that is a bit better at it than me. I've had a fair few 200Tdi over the years. I've had balls out tuned to the max versions and boggo standard. When it comes down to it, its a 2.5litr 4 cylinder turbocharged, intercooled diesel from an era when engines were relatively crude, simple and long lived. If I want to drive quickly I have a selection of A4's to use and one day the Toerag. What I wanted was just a slightly improved version of what I had already
  20. Hi Dean No idea mate
  21. I had my head off to sort the valve stem seals. I decided to get it checked for true, so dropped down to Hamlyn's. I was chatting to the owner and he said they would true it up, re-grind and re-seat the valves, fit the valve stem seals and port it and gas flow the exhaust; all for 170 notes. No brainer really. SO essentially they simply improved it's flow. The valves did have their profiles changed and their seats to match. It's something the company has done for years, so it's all set up to do it. Since then I've fitted a replacement OE intercooler, that was cleaned prior to fitting; fitted SMACO hoses; fitted a non dented metal pipe from the turbo and simply massaged the tuning a snadge. I've also tweaked the wastegate actuator so it's showing the correct boost at the correct rpm. I've had it on the rolling road, really to see where peak torque is. Figures are better than standard and slightly better than a standard TD5 I'm not running a snorkel and won't be; but I will replace the centre box to allow the turbo to spool up faster. I'm after reliability, economy and slightly more driveability over standard
  22. I run a 'performance' cylinder head in my 200 Tdi. The work was done for me by a local engine house (Hamlyn's of Bridgwater). I was pleasant surprised by the difference in flexibility and economy; so much so I have not bothered doing much else to tune the vehicle - a little pump tweak and a little wastegate actuator tweak is about it
  23. Sadly, Nick, They are no longer available. I was chasing a set for the disco for ages.
  24. Police spec are red/white Might I suggest Discovery 1 spec medium weight OME's