Had exactly the same issues with the 1/4 chassis I just did.
Be warned this is no small/ cheap/ easy job. Ended up replacing loads of other stuff that had gone at the same time (mudguards, brake pipes, bushes). Having said that I'm very pleased with the result and the Disco will live on for a while!
I'm using the stronghold hitch lock. I really like it, it's really well designed with minimal opportunities for the budding thief to remove it. Regardless on whether you can get your trailer out of sight or indoors, I really would recommend one of these
Nige,
Large black hoodie with white embroidery
Large black polo with white embriodery
2 x mugs
You should have just had a PayPal donation for supporters membership too
New injector seals required I think. Make sure you clean the injector seats in the head well before you put the injectors back. Don't ask me how I know?
Over the past couple of days I've been doing some servicing and pre MOT work on my faithful TD5 disco. Whilst working in the right hand side of the engine bay I came across a stray terminal hanging down from the chassis leg. I've had a good look through the engine bay and can't find a terminal that it connects to. Unfortunately I haven't got a rave I can check it with. The wire colours on the terminal area yellow/black, yellow/pink and orange/grey. Can anyone shed any light. Thanks
Have a look at this;
http://www.woking.gov.uk/environment/envcrime/abandonedvehicles
Most borough councils use the same power to remove vehicles from the road where the police have no power to do so
I'm all for testing trailers. However I don't think that there are any changes on the table for this year. Trailer testing laws are still set out by the DVSA as;
https://www.gov.uk/annual-test-for-lorries-buses-and-trailers/vehicles-that-must-take-the-annual-test
Tanuki,
A step by step guide here;
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector%20Seals.html
It can be done without the LR tool and a heel bar will suffice if used carefully
I found I had a blockage in the heater matrix, possible caused by K seal or similar. I flushed it out by having the hose pipe on full bore and alternating it between the two matrix pipes. A load of carp came out when doing this for about 5 mins. In relation to the fuel cooler, the water pipes are at either end. I had difficulty flushing it insitu and decided to remove it and do it on the bench which wasn't that big a job
Kai,
Check the tightness in the fuel filter first. It may be worthwhile replacing it. If not the fuel filter, it may be the housing which can become porous or a slight leak on the fuel lines. I'd clean and dry everything in that area to see if you can pinpoint the leak