Biffo

I have a wide track Sankey and I can't push the hitch on mine. I've had the drawbar apart and checked it all out, no problems there, the pivot to apply the master cylinder is well greased and working, but I've no idea if the brakes actually work or not yet. There is one other thing to note with the disc braked trailers drawbar (don't know about the earlier ones) the drawbar is only designed to go backwards and forwards, it does NOT pivot (ie turn in the housing) so it's very important that the Nato hitch on the tow vehicle is released to pivot if towing one of these trailers.

Mine is on the rear bumper. 3 nuts tack welded in the correct position, correct size of bolts, job's done!

We've certainly bashed the front steering / sump guard a few times! also bent the track rod U shaped, it's now a heavy duty one!

I have mine mounted on the face of the rear bumper. I tack welded 3 nuts in the correct places to take the screws that hold the socket.

Mmmmm! looks like a sticking piston on inside as that pad hardly looks touched, the anti-rattle springs are knackered also, and you need to find out where that liquid is coming from PDQ. I've seen a lot worse discs, but unknown what the inner face is like.

I also would spend more and get the Sealey-3003CXQ jack, I have one and swear by it. I also have the smaller type for use with the eurobox instead of those stupid ½ scissor jacks to get. but when you really need a good firm sable lift, use the Sealey one.

Get it sorted, it's not hard

If it's that tight, go for 1/2" driver.

Once you've "serviced" the swivels, (big shiny balls) you shouldn't really need to bother with them again. Originally they were filled with oil, but this tends to start leaking past the seals quite soon, you're best to drain them (Plug at the bottom of each for draining, another plug 2/3rds way up for filling.) Get 2 tubes of swivel grease from your local Landy agent, or even ebay ( item 230704344661 looks cheapest) squeeze a full tube into each swivel, put the plug in and you're done.

I have exactly the same year vehicle, 300TDI auto. You can get replacement floor pans for the boot, and you'll soon learn how to weld. To free the difflock take off the trim etc around the gearstick (consult Mr Haynes, but it's easy enough) until you can see where the linkage etc is. The difflock is worked by a shaft that goes in and out with the movement of the linkage (lock in/out on the photo), drown this in WD40 or similar and help it to move a bit at a time, once you've got it moving, oil it up with engine oil or soft grease. you'll see from the photo where this shaft is, and they seize up because they don't get used on a vehicle that doesn't go off road. Whilst we're looking at the photo, check out the piece at the end of the shaft (near to where it says "lock linkage to pin" ) this is the bit that gets bent through ham-fisted range changes, leaving you stuck in one range or the other. They are an absolute B--TA-D to change, so much so that I have cut a window into the tunnel and fixed a hinged flap over it as I had to change one half way up a French hillside once, and did not enjoy it! I disagree with the previous poster on how to change the difflock /range, it's actually printed on the tunnel. You need to be travelling in a straight line at a speed less than walking pace, select neutral with the main g/stick, and then select what-ever you're going for, then reselect the gear that you want. You need the shafts in the transfer box to be revolving slowly to make an easy change every time. If you don't do it this way, you'll soon be needing to change the piece below.

You've got to pull the centre pin out of the flange first to get at the flange nut, i think (it's along time ago I did mine!) that a long bolt with numerous packing pieces to pull it out, a bit of heat on the flange helps. Once you've got it out, why not fit a flange (& spacer) from a 200TDi along with the propshaft then you've got rid on that bloody doughnut!

We've just been out for the day laneing in our Disco, and lost high range after coming off a lane. I was already aware of this as similar happened a couple of years ago, so I'd cut the access flap & had spare pins & clips etc (just in case!) so we could sort it out at the roadside. It's still a bugger to get at with those 2 fiddly little plastic bushes as well.

you're much better with the vehicle moving slightly at around walking pace or less when changing from one ratio to the other, this gives the ratio change gears to align with each other and they'll slip in together. If too much force is applied to try to get it "to go into gear" when it's not lined up just right, then you will bend this piece of the linkage, then it will never go in correctly again. Note; it's a right sod to change as well!!

All of the above, none of which are expensive to sort out, also check the bushes in the panhard rod. With a 2" lift these are under extra strain especially if it's still the standard rod.

Yes, and they're one more less as of last week. I bought a good MK3 for £175 + vat. i've just changed the wiring plug for a standard one today. I also fitted one of My link these to the Lady to bring it home with, no problem! now it kills two birds with one stone!