difflock

it was a joke (hence the wink ) seriously though, I just prefer the feel of 2wd on the road will have to see what I can do....

2wd is more fun I'd just prefer to have 2wd really.....hopefully with a V8 it will keep the fuel use lower every little helps No, sadly Cornwall is a complete pain to be honest.....

Cornwall..... I know some US 4x4s run UJ front axles.... its just I'd prefer to stick to 2wd really not because of this though Only issue then, is the rear gear would be permanently welded it I might end up with a different gearbox to an LT230 (perhaps an LT95) so really I was hoping for a modification which would be reversible with a new set of gears.... will have to have a bit of a think.....

sadly, no the only way I can modify it for a bearing, would be to use an angle grinder to take most of the material off, and then use a file to smooth it out and size if for a bearing......

I keep reading/being told/etc that you NEED a bearing/bush to support the front drive gear. so the gear can turn independently to the diff casing.... the kit you used (the Ashcroft/Bearmach one), supplies a front drive gear modified with a bearing..... but is it only NEEDED when the FWH are used? unless I'm looking at this the wrong way, but the only difference between a 2wd converted and a standard 4wd centre diff, is in the 2wd converted one, the spider gears are removed, and the rear drive gear is welded to the shafts.... the front gear isnt supported in a 4wd centre diff is it? Having not taken a centre diff apart yet, I dont really know what they look like internally....

No one viewed this yet?

Looking through various threads, I see quite a few have fitted later 5 speed gearboxes... now I've tried searching but not had much luck, so when you modify the transfer boxes to part time 4wd, how do you support the front drive gear? (and stop it moving into the diff?) I've seen FridgeFreezers thread, using the Ashcroft kit, but ~£150 for a small bearing and a small cast piece to lock the casing to the rear drive gear seems a lot of money.... I'm considering a similar approach.... Now I know how to weld, and can weld the rear gear to the casing (well, the shafts to be correct ) which I will do because its cheaper.... but how can I support the front drive gear on the cheap? the only way I've considering is modifying the front drive gear.....as in attacking it with an angle grinder until a bearing will fit onto it, and will then fit into the centre diff casing as well... if I got the right thickness bearing, that should stop the drive gear moving back shouldnt it? thanks

Hello people Has anyone got an LT95 long bellhousing box sitting around (either fitted or in the shed)? if so, could you measure the distance from the bellhousing to engine surface, to the rear prop flange? and also the distance between the front and rear prop flanges? and if possible, could you do the same measurements with the series gearbox? reason being, I'm thinking of fitting a V8 and LT95 into my SWB S3, without moving the front grill (the rad can be on the front crossmember), and hopefully moving the engine forwards a little, the gearstick will be in a ok position.... the reason for the measurements, is I can then see if it will fit without the crossmember behind the gearbox needing modification..... Thanks

I second Gremlins comment I got a draglink from a 110 (mid 80's) its 31" long and works brilliantly So thats what you need to get

The drag link really needs to be around 30.5"~31" long. the series one is 28.5", and the disco one is 34" long. (All those measurements are tube length) So what landys use a ~31" drag link?

I have a disco drag link sitting in the garden its definitely too long... Mine has PAS now It does feel slightly odd, being so light I still have the series drag link, but it is too short, so I will get a slightly longer one...

Just out of interest, I noticed you have wound the TREs out of the drag link so its the correct length... how far out is it safe to wind the TREs out? about half way on the thread? thanks

It would have a heatshield It would need to for the MOT anyway the 200Tdi is a bit like a tractor/lorry engine really, so it would perhaps suit the sound of it a little better. I think the safe EGT before the turbo, is around 720*c, but I think most peak at around 650*c The exhaust does get hot (and mine is only around 2 feet long), but not super hot....

I will be converting my series to PAS soon Just need to get a PAS box now...

Looks a nice neat fitment