James NZ

Thanks for the reply elbekko. I was starting to reach the same conclusion. I was actually going to be selling the disco after this last trip away, until this happened. As the car sat around unused for 2020 I'm thinking maybe the valve block gummed up a bit, although the flushing out and new filters would off helped I thought. I'm hoping it is the MV valve, so I will be removing the valve block and checking the MV valves. I also found a Jaguar official "ZF Automatic Transmission Service Manual" for the 4HP22 & 24E and it has a handy fault chart. The faults for no reverse are - dirty oil filter, jammed governor, jammed reverse inhibit valve (which is MV2) or low oil level. Cheers, James NZ

Hi all, I've just been away and arrived home, reversed the truck up the driveway and parked it up. The day after I needed to move it and it wouldn't engage reverse gear, it will drive forward no problems. So I checked the ATF level and that's all good. I went for a quick drive down the street and back and forward motion seems normal but I still don't have reverse. Absolutely nothing happens when you shift into reverse. So I put the Nanocom on, there are no faults showing (except for the oxy sensors again), the M&S lights are not flashing. The shift indicator lights on the console and dash light up correctly with no flashing. So I thought maybe a a dirty plug for the xyz switch or maybe the switch itself. I took the xyz switch off today and opened it up thinking it might be dirty wiper contacts but mine seems different to the ones I've read about online. I've included pictures of the xyz switch as well, it seemed quite clean to me. I did think with the river crossings that it might have had water inside, but there wasn't. I've since sprayed it with contact cleaner/lube. I've also checked the loom and can't find any obvious faults. The shifter works as it should. It also had Maxlife atf auto fluid change (4 times) and filter approx 5k km ago. Its been driving fine since then. Does anyone have any ideas what may be the problem? Thanks, James NZ

Hi guys, does anyone have access to the official labour time rate for replacing the top & bottom steering knuckle on one side or both sides. I need to replace them on my disco and am trying to figure out the best way forward. I have a complete set of new ball joints I purchased some time ago knowing that I would have to replace them at some stage and am trying to decide whether to either make/purchase some extra tools to do the job or just get the dealership to install them for me. The dealership seems to be taking a long time figuring out how much to charge me, maybe they don't really want to do it?? Thanks for any help on this. Cheers, James

Hi bear, thanks for the reply. As I don't have a 6' pipe but do have a shorter length I guess a 3' length at 120Ibs pull equals the same thing. Or I might just look for a longer pipe. Cheers

Hi guys, I have to replace a rear hub on the TD5 and rave tells me I need to torque it up to 490Nm and I don't have a torque wrench that big. I've tried hiring a 3/4" drive torque wrench but none of the hire companies have one. So I'm wondering how impoortant is it to torque it to that value? I have 1/2" drive wrenchs that go to 160Nm. Can I torque it up to 160 and then swing on a 3/4" 600mm bar? Any ideas? Cheers, James

Hi threesheds, did you get your Lynx to program your key fobs? I have a Lynx and it wouldn't program keys for me, it would just stop. So gave up and borrowed a mates Nanocom evo, couple of minutes later job all done. I emailed everyone I could for support but never got a reply. Sorry for the late reply, been away and just catching up. Cheers, James NZ

Hi guys, thanks for the replies, it turned out to be the contacts within the starter solenoid. Just picked some up locally and will fit them but I think the underlying problem is that the solenoid had quite a lot of oil in it which had affected the terminals. So I'll also need to figure out where the engine is leaking from and sort that out as well. My wife mentioned the other day that the car was "clonking", think I found the problem as per the pic. Fortunately I already have a rebuild kit in stock for the driveshaft. Have a merry christmas. Cheers, James NZ

Hi everyone, went to start the wife's TD5 this morning (our main car) and got a single click but no start. It clicked when I realised the ignition key and the click appears to be from the starter. I've done a search and am about to clean all terminals etc, will put the battery on charge, will also see if the car starts by using the V8 battery (830cca). The TD5 starter had new contacts and plunger 22193km ago. I read somewhere that a single click is the relay and or solenoid, but rapid or multiple clicks indicates a dying battery, this sounds correct? With New Zealand about to close tomorrow at lunchtime (Friday) for the xmas holidays any other pointers will be helpful and may just reduce my stress levels! Thanks, James NZ

Hi guys, thank you to Scotts90 for identifying the plug and to zardos for the local link. I ordered from the local source, they arrived yesterday and now I have working lights. Best I get on and finish the bumper to mount them then. Cheers guys, James NZ

Hi all, Hopefully this is the right forum, if not could the mods please either move or delete as required. I bought some LED fog/daylight running lights that were advertised as fitting the disco 3 from a chinese site. I don't have a disco 3 but my intention is to fit a pair of lights into my home made winch bumpers, for two discos. I need to ID the plugs which I've tried but aren't getting anywhere. The dimensions of 21.4mm x 12mm are inside the plug and externally it measures 24mm x 14.5mm. It has two connections with the number 11 cast into the base on the left and 8 on the right. There are three locating lugs externally and a dividing moulded bit inside the plug. Also does anyone know what the terminal numbers refer too, like ground or supply? The terminal 11 has a white wire which I'm guessing is supply and terminal 8 is black, so earth? I checked the Bosch terminal codes but those no.s aren't listed. The other two photo's are so you get an idea of what it looks like. If I can't get a plug I'll fit small terminals and then encapsulate them in some epoxy. But I'll need a plug somewhere and on the light fitting would be nice. Thanks guys, James NZ

Hi guys, thank you for the suggestions on what to look for. Turned out to be the rotary coupling. So replaced with a second hand one from my parts car for now, but I'll replace that with a new one as it also is quite old. Most importantly, it passed the WOF (MOT) so all legal to drive on the road again. Cheers, James NZ

Hi guys, Thanks for the replies guys. Ally V8 & sierrafery should I buy the fault light on ebay or is it simply a case of buying a 2.2 ohm resisitor and 2 amp fuse and making my own? Either way it will be this coming weekend before I can have another look into it. Cheers, James

Hi guys, last Friday I was checking over my D2 V8 prior to taking it in for its annual WOF (MOT). Since fitting new flexi brake lines the brakes have been a bit soft, so I decided to bleed them again! I used Nanocom Evolution to bleed the ABS unit and then bleed the calipers as per the manual. The brakes came up a lot better but on test driving the car the SRS light would not extinguish. And it still doesn't. I put the Nanocom on to test for faults and got the following - Code 008 The drivers airbag measures open circuit (Permanent) So I checked the connection under the drivers seat as I recently took the seat out. Looking on the net it would seem that the next culprit is the Rotary coupler? Would the above fault code indicate that it is the rotary coupler? The only other relevant info is that the SRS light came on about two weeks after my wading problem back in June 4th which I posted about. The SRS light stayed on for about a month and then went out and was good until last Friday. I'd appreciate any help with the fault code. Thanks, James

Hi Sierrafery Thanks for your reply and excellent photo. Firstly I do have Rave on my home PC, just not on my tablet - yet! I drove home yesterday and the diff lock light eventually went out on its own accord, after driving approximately 100 odd k's. The traction control and abs lights took a bit longer to go out, and then came back on. Starting back on my journey again after having stopped for lunch, all of the lights went out and stayed out. The weather down south had been damp, foggy and raining so I think it took the long drive home for the things to dry out. I think I'll replace the warning light switch as it may not be sealing correctly. Most of my trips involve some river crossings so its probably not a bad idea. I'll be checking the loom as well. Cheers, James NZ

Thanks for the reply Dave. My car does have the difflock internals, but as I have no shift lever this has not been engaged. Unless it magically did it all by itself. Regarding the shifter and P0705 fault, I was really just putting that out there to make sure the two problems weren't connected to the diff warning light. I've crawled under the disco to check for broken/loose wires but cant see anything obvious. I also jacked the front right tyre off the ground and gave it a spin. The drive shaft spins freely so I've decided that eliminates a true diff lock situation and its an electrical problem. I'm going to cut my losses and go home. If I get home tonight, and its a 7:15 hr drive at 100kph, then I'll have Monday/Tuesday to sort it before going back to work. BTW, I won't be driving home at 100kph. Might just take it leisurely. Any other input about the diff lock light coming on would be appreciated. Any hints on where to look for faults. After this incident I think I'll have to load Rave onto my tablet. Thanks, James NZ

That's awesome. A fine way to start your retirement. Are there any suitable "having your cake and eating it" jokes out there? Cheers, James NZ

Hiya, I considered a Nanocom as a mate has one,but didn't like the small screen and the way it displays faults etc. So I bought a Lynx, as I prefer the graphical display. I use it with my tablet which always goes with my on my adventures anyway. Also I use it on a D2 not a RR. However I'm disappointed with some aspects of the software and support. For example my central locking was set up to only unlock the drivers door first and then a second push on the key fob unlocked the other doors. So I wanted to reprogram it to unlock all doors with a single push on the fob. The Lynx wouldn't do it. My mates Nanocom sorted it out in um, probably seconds! The Lynx looks like its been upgraded or about to be upgraded to a new version, I don't know what thats like. Cheers, James

Hi guys, I'm 600 kms away from home on a 4wd trip and all was going well until last night. We had finished driving a track with numerous water crossings when the red difflock light flickered and then came on permanently. After a bit the amber traction control and abs lights lit up as well. As I don't have a lever to engage the diff lock I'm wondering how this could be. I guessed that perhaps the water crossings had shorted a plug, so I left it to dry out overnight. I turned the ignition on this morning and the lights are still on. What I'm wondering is, as I haven't actually physically engaged the diff lock am I good to drive it home. or any where for that matter? Thanks for any help. Cheers, JamesNZ Sorry. I should have said the car is a D2 V8 auto. And also yesterday the shift lever went "limp". I usually drive the auto as a manual off road, shifting gears myself. I shifted into 1st to go downhill and when I went to shift into 2nd 3rd etc the shifter was very floppy. Managed to engage "D" and left it in that gear until we got to the hut. I checked the lever out and there is definitely some play in its movement. Also I've just hooked up the Nannocom and got a P0705 Position Switch Monitoring fault. Which I've cleared hoping the dash lights would go out, they didn't. So is a P0705 to do with my shift lever. If any one can offer any ideas I'd be grateful, I really want to complete my holiday. Thanks

Hi deep, Cheers for that. We are in Otaki next weekend, I'll send a PM. Thanks, james

Hi all, after spending most of the christmas holidays refreshing my son's D1 he finally got to take it away for Waitangi Weekend (New Zealand Day) up the Godley Valley and glaciers. All went well until the trip home which ended up with him on a tow rope. So I've started to have a look and have done - checked for spark = yes, changed the plugs cos they were due for new ones compression check out of curiosity, compressions fine. Checked fuel and main relay, they work. Pulled the ECU out and started diagnostics on that using the downloaded Fuel Injection System tests which is for the Range Rover. Got to test procedure 3 which is to check the main relay operation and it failed. Result expected is battery volts, I got 1.9volts. Which is closer to zero than 12 volts plus so it said to proceed to test 4. Test 4, Fault Diagnosis Main relay circuits. Test 4/A Voltmeter reading of battery volts = ok. If ok suspect ECU. Not wanting to think the ECU had packed up I went through the rest of the tests up to and including procedure 17, everything checked ok.Procedure 18 testing fuel pump pressure had previously been done with a result of 43 PSI. So the big question is,is the ECU dead and is there a test procedure to check it. Reading the above, do you think I may have missed something? Should the engine at least fire if I was to spray starter fluid into the intake as I do have a spark? Any help would be great. Thanks, James NZ

Hello again, Actually I've come up with some info. Fault 18 seems to indicate a faulty O2 sensor. Fault 34&35 seems to indicate running lean (or it might be running rich, the source of info was a bit ambiguous). Reading these faults and fault 18 together the cure seems to be to replace the faulty O2 sensor and the MAF? Does this sound right? Fault 108. Don't have a flippin clue. Any ideas please? Fault 148. Seems to be related to NAS Passive Immobilization feature. How this was activated in a NZ new car I'm not sure. My car however only opens the drivers door on the first touch of the remote and will open the rest of the doors if the remote button is pushed again. Any ideas on this one? And before you ask, all I did was read the ems fault codes whilst waiting for me dinner to be dished up. So no programming or setting new values. Thanks again, James NZ

Hiya, I've just received a new Lynx for use on our disco 2's, both V8 & TD5. So I thought I'd have a bit of a play on my V8 and read the EMS fault codes. The following photo shows what it read. This is all well and good however it doesn't mean a lot to me. Can any Lynx users shed some light on where I might get additional info on fault code meanings etc. Many thanks, James NZ

Thank you for the link teabag. I was sure I saw it on this forum as I don't really frequent the others. Thanks for your help.

Hi all, Can someone help with a thread I've tried searching for. There was a chap with a disco 1 that he photoshoped some different colours too, Kawasaki green being one of them, and I think there was a yellow and pink versions as well. I remember the back ground showing a brick building. I've tried photoshop, colour, disco, change, kawasaki green as key words but couldn't find it. I'd be grateful if any one can help with the link. Thanks James NZ

Hi Griff, Looks like I didn't explain myself properly, oops! The plug on NZ vehicles is on the right hand side close to the transmission tunnel. So that would make it on the left side of the right hand side footwell. Is that better