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DORISD90

Getting Comfortable
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  1. I think the problem maybe electrical. The spark plugs may not be getting enough juice and therefor not producing a good spark because of a faulty battery or alternator. I was thinking of changing the coil and battery to see what happens. If I play the radio when driving and turn the engine off she struggles to start afterwards because theres no juice in the battery so that needs to be replaced anyway. Do you think this will sort the problem. If its not the battery then maybe the alternator is not recharging the battery properly. Any Ideas? Thanks Andrew
  2. Hi All, I purchased a 1993 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8 yesterday and am delighted with my new wheels. It may not be immaculate inside or out but I love it. I have a '94 Defender 200Tdi at home so I'm not new to Land Rover but I jumped at the chance to own a Range Rover. I'm new to Range Rovers and particularly V8's so If I'm not providing enough info let me know. Having a bit of trouble thus far so I thought I turn to the 'old reliable' for some info. Thanks in advance for all your help. The first problem I'm having is the Idle on the V8. It's 1993 Range Rover Vogue (I think, not sure what the difference is between the 'Vogue' and the 'Classic') with a 3.9 V8 and a 4 speed automatic transmission. The idle on the engine varys between 750/1000 revs and 250 revs. The engine revs fall away to 250 and then shoot up to 750/1000 revs again and its pretty erratic. This is constant when she is idling whether it's in drive, neutral or park. It doesn't matter whether the engine has just been started or whether it's been driving for a while and is warm. The engine cut out twice at traffic lights today which is extremely annoying. There is not problems starting her again or when I'm driving. I noticed today that when the air con (or heater, whatever is in my car) is on the idle sits perfectly just below 1000 revs and there is no issue, it doesn't vary at all. If anyone has any ideas on what the problem is and/or how it can be fixed please let me know. If you need anymore details to try and diagnose the problem let me know and I'll do what I can to answer your questions. Thanks again, Andrew
  3. Thanks for that. Never thought of the wheel bearings so they'll be checked and hopefully that will sort the problem. Mo, I think I'v expierienced that "entertaining handling" your talking about but luckily I was only doing 30kph and there was no traffic coming against me. I put it down to a faulty steering box though because the one in it is leaking oil by the gallon. Have a new one in the garage now so will have some fun fitting it at the weekend. Thanks again
  4. Hi, I have a 1994 Defender 90 and a few days back I heard grinding, clunking, knocking noises coming from the rear of the truck. My guess is it's the rear axle maybe the diff or else the transfer box. The noises are not constant but quite regular. The grinding noise doesnt happen that often but the clunking and knocking noises are quite regular. I don't know what the problem is but need to get it sorted. The noises happen when driving at any speed. The truck feels fine to drive with no notable decrease in power, speed, acceleratiion or handling. The gearbox feels fine with no problems. I havn't tryed to put it into low box or lock the diff since the noises happened as I fear doing more damage. There is some oil leaking from where the propshaft meets the rear axle. The brakes have also had problems since the noises began. Generally, as you know, when you press the brake pedal it is firm. However, around the same time the noises began the brake pedal has not been firm and the pedal almost hits the floor and on occasion has. They are obviously not as effective but have not completely failed. when I'm driving and have to press the brake pedal sometimes it's fine and feels as normal and then a few minutes later you press the brakes and the pedal hits the floor. Don't know what problem is or whether it has anything to do with the noises I'm hearing. Thanks for any help you can offer. If anyone has any questions please let me know. Sorry if the description is a bit vague but as I dont know what the problem is I don't know whats relevant and whats not. Thanks again. Andrew
  5. Thanks a mill! The info above is excellent, far more then I could have hoped for. What year was the 32 spline CV joint introduced and what year was it discontinued? Cheers
  6. Thanks alot for that. Much appreciated. If these upgrades were carried out would the axles be as strong as any other Land Rover/Range Rover axles around or would I be better off starting with axles from a different vehicle/year. For example, I have a 1994 Defender 90 200Tdi, Would the axles out of her be a stronger axle then the Range Rover axles or is there no differance. Also, is there any gearing differances between Defender, Disco or range rover axles. Thanks
  7. Hi All, Can someone please give me the spec on 1983 Range Rover Classic axles. How many splines do they have for the various shafts and are they a strong axle? Are the axles on Range Rover Classics the same as those on the Defender 90. If not what are the differances? I'm building an Ibex off-roader and trying to find out what the best and strongest axles for the job are. The Unimog Portal axles are probably the best for the job but are expensive and hard to find so im trying to work with Defender or Range Rover Classic axles Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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