wermy

110 Maximum permissible rear axle load Standard Suspension 1750kg/2 875kg Heavy Duty Suspension 1850kg/2 925kg Assuming the Station wagon with the Boge strut is the standard suspension and the heavy duty with out. So with 925kg cast into the Deep Dish it is good for all 110 models twistedpress no photos yet, not far enough on with the bodywork she is shy

East Coast Rovers have a series of photos of them doing just that with a full 110 body for a chassis swap

I was looking at those Deep Dish ones on eBay. I bought off someone else cheaper, though I see those ones are a bit cheaper now. Deep Dish are rate at 925kg as you will see cast into the inner face, so are good for our 110's. Make sure you get the nuts with them or you will have to pay £ 2 a piece. They were fitted to 110's before the Boost wheel came in and I read that they do fit over the drum braked Salisbury hubs, whereas the Boost don't

Wait for a proper galvanised Brownchurch type, there are plenty around that people have replaced as they want a nice streamlined one. Mine came with the vehicle as has only been removed for bodywork changes. It saves the decision factor if you want to buy something big. As for weight, it weighs about 75kg from my estimations. So technically you can't put anything on it Taking it off isn't that bad as you stand in the middle of it and walk to the rear of the roof. Then back on the ground with it hanging over you tip it towards you and stand it on it's end. Mind out for the legs on your legs as they are sharp ! Makes a great climbing frame for the ids as well, once you show them how it's done

Yeah it is. I loosened the roof bolts from behind the B posts and then used my engine crane to support the roof. To save things slipping and to protect the door opening, I made a wooden U shape out of wood. You then just lift the roof a touch and the side panels lift out. You can then work on the cappings with ease. The same method was later used when I gave up on the rotten tub and swapped it for a newer utility one.

I did a few changes of engine and gearbox which might assist though not totally as mine is a 110 V8/LT85 to V8/Auto Using same mounts as the Autobox is the same length as the manual V8/Auto to 300TDi/R380 Had to change the engine mounts as they are totally different in shape and location. The R380 is mounted on a crossmember rather than directly onto the chassis with mounts. In both of these cases I have kept the original propshafts as the transfer box stays in the same place. So work backwards from the transfer box with the mounts onto the chassis. From there you can mount the autobox and finally the engine to give you your mount location. The in tank HP pump for the V8 goes in the tank instead of the diesel pickup. If you don't want to do that use an LP and fit an inline HP one. Finally if you are using a standard ZF autobox, they come with a shifter that is cable operated. Mine was bolted through the seatbox just using the rear mounts. There is no major load on it as you are only changing gear. If you look at Defender development over the years not a lot has changed. I park my 110 next to my friends 53 plate Defender at work and people ask what has changed. The bodywork and chassis are interchangeable the only real difference is the engine and the shiny paint on his.

They have been hinting at this for some years now and there have been plenty of comments about the lack of profit owing to the manual build costs. The admission that the replacement won't be cheap sounds like they are moving the whole range up and away from it's roots. I do wonder how the JLR group will get on once there heritage has been killed off. I am looking forward to the possibilities for our favourite adaptable vehicle thought ! Lets try this one ? The pattern parts suppliers that we all buy parts from. Some of them are actual OEM suppliers. We can buy almost all parts of a Defender from these suppliers. So if you can't buy a new Defender from Land Rover, what's stopping companies building the vehicle we all want ? It might not be a new vehicle but most of us on here are already some way down the path of breathing new life into an existing vehicle. Another interesting development will be the Utility companies that use Defenders for their specialist vehicles. What will there solution be when they can't buy Defenders ? You never know what might come out of this, we might be pleasantly surprised ! Alan

Just part way through changing the axles on my 1986 110 CSW to a set of TD5 ones. Before I started I had been reading all manner of posts on differing wheel fitments and stud lengths. As Ralph ensures us modular and Wolf wheels do fit, though with the stud a bit short in the wheel nuts Whilst taking photos to record what I was doing I thought I would document the differences between the two axle types. A modular fitted to the original drum braked axle Stud length on the drum braked axle Stud on the disk braked axle The modular back on showing the stud flush fitting With the Wolf spare fitted. (Must put it back on and show the stud length) Ralph, happy if you want to add this to the Technical forum to help with the ongoing questions. As can be seen the studs are about 3mm longer on the TD5 axles and show the slotted end which many posts refer to. Cheers Alan

I spoke to the company today, guy was really helpful. They are exaclty the same thickness as genuine units, but don't have the LR stamp and price ticket to go with it. They are all sold out at present, but should be back in stock in the new year. As you would expect they are produced in China and supposedly manufactured by an OE wheel plant. He too spends loads of time like Western explaining that you don't need to buy new studs. He was a mechanic in the military for quite some years. Maybe it all stems back to the vision of half an inch of stud protruding through the nuts on Series vehicle. I rememeber them well. If you had major corrosion or damaged the exposed thread on something you couldn't get the wheel off ! I also want another set of Maxxis Buckshots to go with them, for when my current set wear down. Those are cheaper elsewhere but as they come already mounted on the rims if you buy them together that price difference isn't so wide. Looks like time to do some overtime !

Thanks Western a mine of useful information as ever. I have been running Mods for the last 6 years and the stud is just inside the nut, but as you say, loads of thread being used. I thought that Wolfs were 8mm thick against the Mods 4mm, I just don't want to gain all that extra unsprung weight.

That's just what I want, the Wolf style without the need for longer studs and half the price ! Not being as wide as a Modular rim is not an issue as I was thinking of downsizing from 265's to 235's. Must find the time tomorrow to give them a call and ask what thickness steel they are.

It's a lot of work ! For a novice it's a tall order, but not impossible. Budget on a weeks work to do the swap as quite a bit has to come apart. All the V8 manual /auto options will fit as the componets are standard lengths without chaning the position of the transfer box and therefore the props can stay the same. I suppose the biggest question is why you want to spoil a tidy diesel 90, if that is yours in your avatar ? If you really want a V8 then 110 V8's are cheap enough now. Original 90 V8's are rare so are expensive, but there are plenty of conversions.

In my opinion your two choices have the following drawbacks. The newer shiney model would still be half way through it's expected chassis life and the untouched older model could just be a money pit. There is another option to the two that you are thinking about. Have a 90 built to your specification ! If I had that sort of money to spend on a Defender it would definitely be an older model. I know a guy in the Bristol area that was selling a 300tdi 110 CSW for £10K, two years ago. He had rebuilt it with a galvanised chassis and all the bits were done. He did a good job with no corners cut. Starting with the correct base vehicle and upgrading it within the VOSA points system you can have just what you want

My early 110 CSW had a V8 and an LT85 in it. We loved it but after 10 years of the V8 I changed it to a 300tdi/R380 combination. It took me a week to fit it all and yes the engine mounts needed to change along with the seatbox and tunnel. It was a shame to have to cut the galvanised chassis but it had to be done. I would personally go for a later 300tdi and save yourself the hassle. If you want to do a really good job, buy the older V8 one and change the chassis and bulkhead. I know that's bit extreme, but while you have it all apart and then it's done for 30 years.

My rebuild failed on poly panhard rod bushes after a years running. I have reverted back to genuine LR units since then. I did fit the rest of the bushes with ....part black ones and M&M gave me a full refund as they just collapsed. We are now running on some better yellow bushes that have lasted for 5 years with no problems. Yes the genuine panhard ones are a pig to change regularly, but I have a 'Service Exchange' unit ready for fitting before the MOT. I just borrow the garage press whilst he is doing my MOT.

The V8 chassis engine mounts are in the right positon for that engine. The early NA motor through to the 200tdi had identical mounts, but in a different position and the 300 tdi ones are completely different again and another postion. As to gearbox mounts the early gearboxes mounted from chassis to gearbox just with small mounts. The R380 is mount via a bolt-in crossmember.

A Richards vote from me. A 3mm 110 chassis fitted 6 years ago and only just going dull with the road salt over the last few winters As to re-chassis or not, if you have that much apart you might as well do a proper job and change the chassis.

The V8/LT85 tunnel has the hole an inch and a half further forward than the R380 one

Lump hammer and large chisel My Series motor had been done that way when I had it years ago. The MOT after my 110 rebuild only had a problem with rear wheel bearings so the guy kindly lent the hammer and chisel to do the necessary adjustment without having to have a retest.

My 86 C plate 110 has the Series style with the hasp and staple. It's the early wide type that has the inner sleeve that comes out. I believe it was that big to allow them to be filled from military bowsers. It's great for filling with Jerry cans as it comes out form the vehicle side.

There is a 3 pin plug on a cable connected to the unit. If you apply 12v to the connections you should get the two speeds. Additionally there is the 3 connections behind the speedo that match the ones on the unit. So no there is no relay just a wiper switch that also operates a bowden cable to open and close the main air vent from the wing. Just had all my wiring apart over the weekend trying to put a newer loom in and had to trace all these wiggley bits down. According to my notes it should be fed by fuse 4 as you have the later type blade fuses at that age of vehicle

The linkage is probably just seized due to lack of use. It's only a sliding dog. When engaged it locks the centre diff only which then still leaves the axle diffs to operate. Try driving forwards and back by a small amount and selecting diif lock. You also use the same technique when it sticks in diff lock. If you take the gearbox tunnel off you can see how simple the mechanism is. It shouldn't be necessary to take the box off never mind change it.

The question is when are you going to have it that much apart again ? Easier to do it while it's semi apart if you can afford to get a new galvanised chassis. I'm glad I did mine, all the rest is just bolt on now. Just depends on how far it's gone really as others have said.

I read on one of the forums the other day that you just need to short out the sensor circuit. The throttle only opens half way for a full pedal in low ratio. In high it's full throttle, full pedal. That way you get better control in low box. Working on that it must just use the High/Low switch that works the light. Oh how I like the simplicity of the 300/380 combination over the V8/LPG/Auto

I knew what this would be about as soon as I saw the title farme_ben, as you were posting about 300tdi conversions the other week. There are two temperature sender units for the 300tdi, Defender & Disco. I changed the gauge on advice and it made no difference, but the sender does. Well I suppose at least I have a complete spare clock set for mine. This one is the badger and a good price as well http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/temperature-gauge-sender-amr3321-p-3992.html