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  1. I'm having this problem at the moment, I have a 2000 Defender Td5. It's taking several attempts to start the vehicle and runs extremely lumpy with masses of white/grey smoke when it does eventually fire. I had all my injectors replaced last year, head gasket changed two months ago, recently had ECU tested and injector loom replaced, along with both relays under the driver's seat, and a direct earth to the negative terminal on the battery. Found an earth cable worn in several parts within the ECU's loom, soldered in repairs but it's still poor to start. I'm now looking at the Mass Air Flow sensor. Had the Defender idling earlier and unplugged the MAF cable. The engine is supposed to stall once the MAF is disconnected. It didn't... I've got to get hold of a multimeter so I can check if there's power going to the MAF before cleaning it and/or replacing it. After that, I'm at a loss...
  2. But with a 2" lift, 265/70R16 (which have a slightly smaller diameter than the standard Land Rover tyre - 235/85R16) and 30mm spacers...? Staffo86 might not get 4-5 inches but it'll be pretty damn close! Bob
  3. Hasn't the Puma got recessed wheelarches? I'm sure I've seen a kit where the wheelarches can be modified with recesses to enable the Puma's forward facing seats to be fitted into older Defenders. I can't, for the life of me, remember where I saw it... Bob
  4. Thank you! I've got it insured fully comp with limited mileage, £123.00 for the year! Bob
  5. A Crackerjack pencil and pen...? Took the 110 for MOT, it failed miserably... At least I know what needs to be done! It's now in storage until I can find somewhere to get it stripped and rebuilt. Thank you for all your help! Bob
  6. Only the viscous fan is missing... I've had a really good look over the car, including underneath. There are some issues but nothing really major - hazards don't work but indicators and all the other lights do, there's a nasty squeal coming from the water pump (which I believe, from another thread on the forum, that it's the bearing), the body is rotted in several places, the steering box is leaking and that's about it! Furthermore, I wouldn't risk my licence taking something not roadworthy out on the road, after all my licence is my livelihood! Thank you for all your help, it is much appreciated! Bob
  7. I bought one from TM Transmissions (Birmingham) about two years ago, the chap rebuilds them in his garage. I exchanged a LT77 (suffix "D") for a reconditioned LT77 (suffix "H") with 12 months parts guarantee for £350. The email address is "transmissions.tm@gmail.com". Bob
  8. It looks exactly like the photo above... I assumed it was the timing belt... If it's not the timing belt then what is it? Thanks, Bob
  9. Power steering is working as I drove it off the transporter, up the road and into my drive... Having never had a 300tdi before I assumed the timing belt cover was just that, a timing belt cover - no mechanical function whatsoever except to protect the timing belt from the ingress of debris. I've just had a look at it, the belt is tensioned and around all the wheels at the front of the engine, including the water pump and the alternator. Bob
  10. Have you ever had the feeling you've bitten off more that you can chew? Firstly, let me explain what I do for a living... I work for a company called Stage Truck as a LGV CE Driver (HGV Class One in old money or Rock n' Roll Tour Driver to impress the girls!). We transport sound, lighting, staging, wardrobe, catering and so on for the music tours. A tour can last anything up to three months, which means I can be away for anything up to three months; since 6th January this year I've been home for only 12 days. And we go everywhere, providing there's a ferry or a bridge... Europe, Scandinavia, Russia, Turkey, Israel, North Africa and everywhere in between! I've recently bought, via eBay, a 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 CSW with only 78,500 miles on the clock for £2,750. The advert said the vehicle was 90% finished, all it needed was a new interior. The auction was running whilst I was out on the Robbie Williams Swings Both Ways European tour so I had no way in which to view the vehicle beforehand. I called the guy who had listed the Defender and asked him, quite specifically, what will it fail an MOT on? Not, will it pass an MOT? What will it fail on? The guy started off with the usual sucking of air between his teeth which, to me, instantly means he going to give me some flannel. He said "...nothing, it just needs a new interior". Due to being away so much you have to take the opportunities/risks as they arise because when you're home there nothing seems to be available. The guy runs a business selling 4x4s so I took him at his word because, at the end of the day, his reputation is on the line (he got negative feedback for his trouble). Anyway, It didn't matter to me what was wrong with it. I was buying it for the engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles, front bulkhead and rear crossmember. The idea was to transfer these components onto my 90 to upgrade it. I have a 1989 90, first registered in 1991 so it has an "H" prefix on the registration but "FA425XXX" as the VIN number. It has the 19J 2.5TD engine with drum brakes on the rear axle... Everything else was going to be put on eBay to recoup some of the money I'd spent. However, just before getting it I was attracted to some of the overland expeditions advertised in LRO magazine. The 90 isn't big enough and, after getting the 110, looking over it, it seemed a better prospect than the 90. Nevertheless it's appalling... When I get it to our yard I'll put it on the ramps and take photos underneath. It looks as though Stevie Wonder welded repair plates onto the chassis; the guy I bought it from sells 4x4s for a living, it beggars belief! He also resprayed it... It looks as though he's been off-roading in it, brought it back to his workshop and sprayed it without preparing or even washing the bodywork first. There are great swathes of flaking rust that have just been sprayed over! The 110 needs a new chassis. It was owned by a Scottish nobleman and I presume it was used by a gamekeeper or similar. It's probably spent most of it's life doing what it's designed for - crawling through long grass, bogs and marshes, hence it's so rough underneath. The rear crossmember has been replaced at some point but definitely not by the guy I bought it off as the welds are so neat they're almost a work of art! After all that I've decided to keep it and sell the 90. The 90 needs a new bulkhead, rear crossmember and an engine change, although there is nothing wrong with the engine; the 90 is currently showing 111,000 miles. The chassis is solid, apart from the rear crossmember. I replaced the gearbox two years ago with a reconditioned unit and it hasn't done more than 10,000 miles (LT77, suffix "H"). I also replaced the 1:6 ratio transfer box with a 1:4 ratio box with approximately 66,000 miles usage. The rest of the vehicle is completely original and hasn't been molested in any way. The idea is to take it for MOT to see what needs doing to it from a qualified perspective. The fitters are guys I've worked with before as they are ex-HGV fitters who now repair cars for a living. I'm also covered by my insurance to take the vehicle to have it tested rather than have someone transport it for inspection. Once it's had it's MOT it's going into storage. It gives me time to sell the 90 and purchase a brand new galvanised chassis from Marsland (I read the thread about the body off chassis change by "Western" with great interest...). A six bay workshop with a VOSA lane is currently being built at the yard and three of the fitters there originally did their apprenticeships with Land Rover so I can have their immediate help whilst I'm restoring the 110 in the old workshop. Back to the original question... The timing belt is present and in good condition, only the timing belt cover and fan are missing. So, there you have it... Sorry it took so long to explain it all! Bob
  11. Morning... Just a quick question... I've just bought a Defender 110 CSW 300tdi and I want to take it for MOT. However, the timing belt cover and viscous fan are missing... Would it be OK to drive 5 miles to the test centre and back? The belt isn't going to slip off or anything like that? Thank you in advance, Bob
  12. Hi... I have a reconditioned lt77 (H suffix) fitted to my 1989 90. A couple of months ago the gears became slightly offset - for first I had to slightly dog-leg the gearstick to the left, almost into reverse, to engage it. The remaining gears were all slightly offset too; fifth gear had a long travel, way over to the right. I managed to cure the problem briefly by adjusting the two bolts either side of the base of the gearstick. A week later I lost all the gears completely. Rather than mess around trying to solve the problem I took the car to a garage for it to be repaired. It's now been in the garage three times. The problem gets rectified but then I completely lose the gears a week or so after having the vehicle is returned to me. I'm only using the car to commute to work and back so I'm not driving in any harsh conditions - I leave that to when I'm at work! I'm employed as a lorry driver, driving a Scania with 14 speed manual gearbox on European work. Therefore, I have extensive experience of a variety of manual gearboxes and their correct use so I'm not abusing the 90's gearbox whatsoever. I would be grateful for any assistance with this problem. Whilst I said I have experience in the use of manual gearboxes, I have no idea how they work so could you please explain the problem and solution in the simplest of terms? Thank you for your patience, Bob
  13. Hi... I have a 90 with a soft top and I want to convert it to a hardtop. I have a roof, sides and a Series III half rear door. What else do I need? Thanks, Bob
  14. I've found this, http://www.allbrit.de/LR.cfm?SPRACHE=DE It provides exploded diagrams and parts numbers for: Defender 1987 - 2006 Discovery I (1989 - 1998) Discovery II (1998 - 2004) Range Rover Classic (1986 - 1992: CA > HA610293) Range Rover Classic (1992 - 1995: JA610294 >) Range Rover P38 (1995 - 2002: MA300001 >) Freelander 1997 - 2006 I find it particularly useful because I can access it anywhere via my phone and it's all in English (no Russian text)! Bob
  15. This is contrary to what I have been advised; I can't remember whether it was on this or another forum. I've been told to frequently give it an oil and filter change, every 5-6,000 miles, using a mineral oil. In fact, the guy got quite shirty when I asked what type of oil I should use. Nevertheless, it's due an oil change and I'll use a high-detergent semi-synth oil as it's starting to smoke quite badly, particularly on start-up. It isn't a bad engine and it'll do 60mph quite comfortably (I don't usually drive any faster anyway). The smoking, however, is down to something sticking in the fuel injection pump that's causing it to smoke. It therefore smokes heavily on start-up but whatever is sticking frees itself once it has warmed up and the smoking becomes negligible. I know I'm going to have to do something about it and I've been quoted £200 to have the pump reconditioned. However, £200 is £200 and it could be £200 towards a 300tdi...
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