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Dr Strangeglove

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About Dr Strangeglove

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  1. I would try fitting a set of wheels with good tyres if you can borrow a set from someone - but without the spacers. Or just try without the spacers to start with. I really am no expert mechanic or indeed with land rovers, but I have had a number of experiences with juddering steering and that has been down to bad tyres (which often did not look damaged). One of those experiences was with my defender!
  2. I believe thicker material stops more noise, but that also depends on density so I don't know how that will go on changing from steel to aluminium. Also with noise you have to do all of the barrier and you would only be doing a small part. Please keep us updated of what you do.
  3. Thanks for that. I do very few miles but I like the look of the tread on those. It looks like it will get through water but the tread is aggressive enough for a bit of off-road.
  4. Apart from the west rate, how were the cross-contacts for road holding and stopping in the wet and dry. Also where they noisy?
  5. I did not go for the full removal bar. I did look at it but actually wanted to retain the lower section. I am the type that leaves carp in the back and I did not want it all shooting forward and ending up in the footwell if I put the brakes on hard!
  6. I did this alteration, though I did fabricate my own bar. Very similar to the yrm job but from 30x30 box - but I am not too precious about the truck! I also made myself some seat rails from 40x40 box section. The combination is great. I to am just under 6'4". This combination allows me to move the seat further back but importantly allows the seat to recline more. I can adjust the seat to suit me, which is great as I suffer from a bad back. I still need to finish mine as I am going to make some cappings to cover the box (remember I made my own so sure the yrm one will be fine). N
  7. Thanks Sigi. I did manage this but took me ages as 50% of the fixings were well beyond unscrewing even with lots of Plusgas. It ended up with mole grips and twist till the fixing sheared in most cases as drill's and grinder can't get access. I did drill the ones to the bulkhead though. I used the parts from paddocks and I was happy with it. It was from 3mm steel and galvanised. Bracket to bulkhead was 2mm. Here's a photo of old and new together.
  8. How much did it cost to do the galvanising Litch? Was it rusted or clear when you took it. I have heard some won't do older kit due to it contaminating the tank. Did you do much of a repair to yours?
  9. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1290740277780629&id=156391757882159&anchor_composer=false Saw this.
  10. I need to change the sill channel on my Defender 90 (1993 K reg) and wondered if anyone that has done it has any tips before I start. This is due to corrosion so obviously it is not going to just unscrew!I have the replacement channel, the rear bracket to the tub and the front plate with two fixed screws.Al help and advice welcome. Also any photos if anyone has them.Thanks in advance.Mick
  11. Has anyone got a link to the stainless tank?
  12. The problem for us "budget" defender owners is would we actually be able to afford one of the super hi-tech jobbies? Let's face, I doubt it will be it's ability off road that will let it down, but the cost to keep the electrickery going will be beyond my wallet!
  13. Has anyone used old milk containers. They look strong enough and flexible. Also you tend to have one available every couple of days and nice and easy to cut with scissors.
  14. Really interesting as I am new to Defenders and spanners! I am sure I will have to do the same in the near future and need to learn a lot first so will do bits first. The rust removal has been very interesting. I thought you said you were only changing the chassis 😁
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