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Dr Strangeglove

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Everything posted by Dr Strangeglove

  1. The lead content in galv is much less than it used to be. I used to be a sheet metal worker so delt with galvanized sheets on a daily basis. I have not seen a good spangle on galv sheets for a few years. I believe the older galv was better. Making coatings more environmentally acceptable does not always work out as the coated part does not last as long so you have to replace it quicker. Creosote is a perfect example of this.
  2. Depends on how many holes, but you could try running through with smaller drills and work your way up. Then just use a decent washer. If you use 1mm increments, you are less likely to have the drill snatch on you.
  3. Many thanks folks, I will try Plusgas for a couple of days before attempting it. Thanks for the replies. M
  4. I am going to replace the glow plugs on my 300tdi and wondered if there were any tips on how to do it before I start. I wondered if it was worth doing some prep work first such as warming up the engine first or applying Plusgas for a couple of days. Only just starting my maintenance "journey" as I want to be able to look after the truck myself as I have to watch the penny's! I really don't want to break a plug in there as I really don't want to have to remove the head to get the broken bit out!! Thanks for your help. Mick
  5. They are. It can hold surfaces flush each other. I joined box sections together as though I had used clamps. Also held things at 90 degrees - well worth the £4. Someone is selling them on eBay for £25!!! I took the bars from mine so it is two separate magnets.
  6. This is the type. I think around £4 or £5 a set. I bought two sets and was so impressed I went and bought two more - though I have a use for them that isn't welding!!
  7. Ah, understand! I can't say I have many branded makes, but I do find them better than the others. Cheap makes do tend to bend and that I find annoying - this definitely won't work with c grips as there is too much material in the"c". "C" grips are good when welding box sections etc. However I recently purchased some welding magnets from Lidl and they have been great. Not the ones formed into a triangle but the ones that are two rectangles connected by bars. The magnets in them are so much stronger than the others and they have been so helpful when welding to box sections - holding stuff at 90 degrees and also joining box sections end to end. Thanks for the replies M
  8. Many thanks. I will have a search for prices on the net.
  9. I don't know where these will be mounted or used, but the"peeling" action you mention would depend on how they are mounted. Will these be mounted as shown, so mounted on top of something, as if they are that looks like a good design. I can understand the "peeling" action if mounted vertically with the hole at the top or bottom. Lovely looking welds - so neat I thought they looked Tig welded!
  10. How much does a re-core cost (approximately)?
  11. If you want these drawing do you can get them laser cut just let me know. I can soon put them on cad and save as a drawing or DXF.
  12. I am looking to buy some C grips and wondered if anyone can recommend some. There are plenty on eBay but I know price does not always mean quality. I don't want break the bank top of the range, but I don't want made of cheese not fit for purpose cr*p either - just decent working at home type kit. I am looking for the 11" version. Thanks in advance for your help. Mick
  13. I got my sill channel for my 90 from paddocks - I was happy with the parts and the service. I have just bought rear outriggers from YRM. They were good quality and good service. I called YRM and I found this better than ordering from the website. So good kit and good service from both. Don't forget to order the associated brackets and bolts that you need. Good luck. M
  14. Looking for these on the net and their is a lot to pick from. From paddocks there are two versions - aftermarket at £28.80 and then Britpart at £24.28 - does anyone know the difference?
  15. I am making myself some rock sliders and want test fit one before doing additional work to it as I want to be happy where I put things. The offside one is not great on the inside and I reckon with a bit more work I can get the rockslider support tube in it. However, after removing the near side sill this weekend I think the amount of work required to clean that out won't be worth the hassle.I have decided to replace both and I would like some input and advice from those with experience on here. So;A) What is the best make and where should I get them from.B) Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Any links to a helpful thread with photos would be great.I can weld so will be doing them myself. I would like to use the rocksliders again if I re chassis the truck.Thanks for any help.My regardsMick
  16. I tried to measure everything. I don't have side steps so you will have to sketch which holes you want. I hope I can help then.
  17. Could anyone tell me the size of the bar on the hi lift jack adapter. I think it is 25mm diameter but would like to know the length.Many thanks.Mick
  18. See if you can find a place that has box section offcuts. You can just weld on the side, put two ends together for but joints, put one on top of the other for fillets. Tel the company you are using them for your lad to practice and you will throw the scrap back in after welding and you will likely get it free. If they think you are making something they might be more likely to charge.
  19. How much and where do you get it?
  20. A tradesman (I think he fitted bathrooms) said he used the Lidl parkside range. He said it was a rebadged Bosch green DIY range. Said they weren't the best but for the price if they get lost or stolen then it is not the same impact as DeWalt or Makita. I find the cheapest DeWalt or Makita to be DIY spec anyway. You have to pay a decent price for decent kit. When I buy tools I tend to look at the use/abuse I am going to give them and decide if I need to go cheap or quality (I prefer quality but sometimes it can't be justified for the occasional DIY or home mechanicing). As I prefer quality I will often choose second hand if it won't get too much use, as s little life left in a tool will last a long time for me. I have an Erbauer impact driver. It can just about get 5" wood screws in at 4.5mm diameter as long as the wood is not too tuff. The first one I got did a lot of work with what I will call standard screws (up to 3") and as it was coming to its first birthday the trigger started being temperamental but took it back to Screwfix and they changed it for a new one so can't complain. It had done a lot of work and the batteries charged lots of times with what seemed little detriment. I have a decent battery Hitachi drill. That has had lots of abuse, and I mean abuse! Used for driving up to M8 coach screws up to 150mm long into decent wood - though I would pilot drill those first. 13mm in mild steel up to 10mm thick. The brushes are starting to go now and the clutch is not what it was. When looking at battery drills I tend to look for something with an all metal chuck. When I see one with a plastic one I always assume it's not expected to do a lot of work. Grinders I tend to go for Bosch. I like their 4.5". I inherited an Aldi 5" which is ok, but you need two hands to use it which is no good for use on something you are holding.
  21. Yes. Though I am not sure how it works on yours.
  22. You may have a "spot" or "stitch" timer. It is what you would use on thinner gauge steels so that you weld, cool, weld, cool, etc It may be worth trying to download a manual for it, or put a clear photo of the switches on this thread. Hopefully someone can let you know what each one does
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