Deej

For greenlaning there's North East Laners, a very active club with friendly people http://northeastlaners.proboards.com/forum Always lots of trips out (including occasional P&P now), regular pub meets etc. Dave

19Kg

Here's a link to the build pics for my woodburner, might give you some ideas: http://s1142.photobucket.com/user/DJDeejUK/slideshow/Wood%20Burner Edit: Just had a look through the pictures again and realised there are some funny ones in there as well. Such as six foot flames shooting out the flue when I fed it some used engine oil...

I put it in the rear door of my disco to stop it getting dragged through the mud. I don't actually have the towbar fitted but I need the socket for a trailer board when the bike rack is on. I don't think the movement of the cable in the door is much of an issue as the rear wiper and central locking cables are subjected to this anyway. As are electric windows, speakers etc in the other doors. [/url]

The standard propshaft has been fine on my lifted Disco but I don't have castor correction arms. By correcting the caster following a lift the UJs will be forced to work at a greater angle and will fail sooner.

I've not seen the motor you're referring to but I would imagine it's very large for its 20KW output? Industrial induction motors are normally designed to work at 50Hz/3000rpm which is very slow, limiting power density. Traction motors we design at work can spin at ten times that speed making them much smaller, which is far more practical when you need to fit a 50KW motor in a small car.

Save that for the MX-5, a Land Rover will want full fat! p.s. Not to be construed as actual advice

Don't really have any ideas but your posts always make me laugh!

That was my mate's traditional Mongolian Yurt under construction. The piles of ash woodshavings made great kindling for the log burner! If you're interested: http://www.yurtleyurts.co.uk/

I have a Blaupunkt THB 200A in my disco and it does a decent job of making the soundsystem more rounded. I think it's a great compromise between size and power, and is ideal for me as I didn't want something to that would eat into the load space. http://www.bluespot.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/thb200a-speaker The cable tie install is a bit of a bodge but to be honest it works well and was really simple.

Sounds a bit more feasible in that case. They obviously have skill, just a shame it's not being put to good use. Maybe after being locked up for 10 years they should be forced to work for free as real mechanics.

Just re-read your posts and unless I'm being thick, the Defender was stolen in the morning and found later that same day with a new engine already? I'm aware that an engine swap can be done in a few hours if you know what you're doing, but it seems very unlikely it would have been completed before the police found them. So does every other feature of the Defender match with yours? Almost as if the police have made a mistake and it's actually someone else's. Edit: Didn't mean to sound negative, I do hope it's returned to you!

The only problem with larger units like that is there will be a fair amount of external circuitry to add in, as the components like filter capacitors become too large to fit in an integrated package. This would probably produce the best end result but there will be more work for you to do. The 1.5A integrated part will be so much easier to work with as it's essentially a direct replacement for a standard 3 pin regulator. Just a shame there isn't one in a higher rating.

I also agree about going with a switching regulator. Linear regs are simple/cheap but not much good when you need to drop a large voltage at high current. Even with a 4deg/W heatsink, which is already pretty big, it would theoretically hit 64 degrees above ambient. On a warm day that means your metal plate would be well over 80 degrees which would hurt if you touched it. If the heatsink is in an enclosed space it will get even hotter.

Excellent work

Never used them myself but heard good things. Sounds like they were true.

I have to say this is not something I know a lot about, but surely it's never been legal to have a vehicle registered as something with which it shares no parts other than the reg plate? I'm aware the one in the link above shares a few parts but none of the 'critical' ones.

So the chassis, engine, gearbox, axles and bodywork are all from more recent vehicles. Has a lovely tax exempt windscreen though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1966-LAND-ROVER-200TDi-HYBRID-DISC-BRAKES-COIL-SPRINGS-TAX-EXEMPT-OFFERS-/251274162678?_trksid=p5197.m1998&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18%26meid%3D7810881945839715490%26pid%3D100017%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D140976853371%26

I saved them in a word document a couple of years ago, you can download it here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5716889/Sill%20Replacement.docx I also did a (less comprehensive) write up of this job which you may find useful. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68771&hl=%2Bdiscovery+%2Bsill+%2Breplacement Dave

The thing that I found confusing was that the smoke almost disappeared if any one of the injectors were disconnected. I was expecting it to stop when the duff one was disconnected, but they all seemed to have the same effect. The one in the picture I pulled out afterwards just to take a look, didn't have time to remove them all.

That's really weird, it's as if the pulley was made from soft plastic. Would never have thought the woodruff key could cut into the (steel?) pulley that neatly.

I've added a photo of one of the injectors. Does it look Ok?

As I mentioned previously, I've been exploring a similar problem and thought there was no point starting a new thread. I get grey/white smoke for the first 30 seconds or so after startup, which gets much, much worse between about 1500-2000rpm. There is a definite smell of unburnt fuel and I'm confident it's not steam. Engine doesn't loose any coolant or oil, no cross contamination of either etc. The problem is worse the colder it is. Until a little bit of heat gets into the engine it feels slightly underpowered and does not rev as smoothly (sounds like it's knocking/missing a bit) The timing is spot on, the glowplugs all work, valve clearances are correct, turbo doesn't feel loose, no oil in the inlet. So basically I've tried everything I can think of that doesn't cost money, and the next thing on the list is having the injectors tested. Before removing the injectors I did a quick test by disconnecting them one at a time to see how it affected the smoke situation. Surprisingly the white smoke virtually disappeared when any one of the injectors was disconnected. When put back to normal the smoke returned. Can anyone offer an explanation?

I'm about to tackle this problem, and I also don't have a slide hammer. I agree that using compression to shoot the injectors out sounds a bit dangerous, but as someone else has mentioned if you just loosen the retainers slightly then surely that will allow the injectors to be freed without turning into a projectile. Or am I missing something?

I would have thought so, there certainly is on my 300tdi Discovery.