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Superpants

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Everything posted by Superpants

  1. If I were starting a llom from scratch I'd go for the Deutsch DT/ DTM/ HD range. They can be had in a really wide range of sizes from 2 ways to neary fifty, lots of options of wire size too, and whilst the tools are expensive new, one tool genuinely does the full range. They are waterproof, easy to assemble and importantly disassemble when you pin one wrong. They are very widely used in the low volume automotive world- buses/ fire engines/ earth moving machinery/ prototype vehicles/ military vehicles- The company I used to work for would default to them for pretty much all prototyping and low volume jobs, unless a differnet part was needed as a mating half. I have a tool- if you keep an eye out on ebay, they do appear from time to time. Actually the generic military tool has some advantages over the deutsch tool as it's quicker to change terminals. You would need a m22520/1-01 tool also known as a DMC tool or astro tool or AF8. You also then need a turret/ positioner. Can't remember the number, but will have a look when I next go out to the workshop.
  2. I'd recommend 'Chassis Engineering' by Herb Adams Chassis Engineering as a good introduction. It is aimed at racing and as it's American it tends to have a focus on oval tracks but it has a good range of information on general vehicle dynamics and chassis design. It doesn't particularly cover offroad use but all the basics are there.
  3. As others have pointed out the only sure fire way to get good results is to match the terminal, wire and tool together. This can be quite a minefield as even the insulation diameter can affect the crimp.The difference between a good and poor crimp can sometimes come down to a few 10th of a millimetre. For some of the more common types there are aftermarket options- for example the superseal ones listed further up. They aren't as good as the original tool, but generally give adequate results. Can't say i've come across one for Mate-n-lok though. Many of the common automotive connectors are now avaialble from the big four catalogue distributors (Farnell/ RS/ Mouser/ Digikey). I wrote a guide to crimping a few years back- you might find it of interest. http://www.superpants.net/crimping.html
  4. Dow DC 4 Available from several of the catalogue electrical suppliers e.g; Rapid I have a tube that is about 10 years old- don't get through it very quickly, but very good stuff!
  5. Morning, I have this morning had a second instance of a fault showing in the display as 'Steering Column Locked'. Searching around suggests there has been a land-rover technical bulletin on this, LTB00290. Can anyone point to where I can find a copy- My googlefu has so far drawn a blank! Thanks
  6. I worked on the installation of the ZF auto box in the Pinzgauer when the Euro III engine was installed. We too ended up with a somewhat jaunty angle, primarily to get the propshaft at the correct angles. Mys suspicion would be that this is the case here.
  7. Stainless is highly uncommon- Are you sure they actually are fully stainless? I would generally avoid stainless- it has a significantly lower conductivity than copper (and it's alloys), and plated copper has very good corrosion resitance.
  8. I have one of the ortelieb ones which is good if you want to go light weight, or easy packing, but they are a bit awkward to fill. I also have a nalgene cantene which is a bit stiffer, but a bit easier to fill Cantene. Both of these are robust, and no leaks after years of use. If space isn't an issue, I too find the Nato black ones great.
  9. Certainly installing the add on brought up photos that weren't previously showing up for me.
  10. I have just picked up on another forum that some kind soul has created a solution to the photobucket image hosting problem- They have created an add in for firefox and chrome that enable you to see the images currently being blocked. I have installed it and seems to be working well so far. The quote from the other site with the details is: If you're using Google Chrome, go to the three dots on the right side of the screen and click them. A drop down should appear. Hover your mouse over "More Tools," and when the next drop down appears, click on extensions. Go to the link towards the bottom that says "Get more extensions." In the search box, type "Photobucket Fix," and hit enter. Click the install button and once it's done, you should be able to see photobucket pictures again. For FireFox users, click on the three bars on the right side of the screen, then click on add ons. Click search for "photobucket hotlink" and click install. Same result. Fantastic!!
  11. If you do gather fallen wood, try and not take that which is laying directly on the ground- this tends to go rotten much more easily and will take longer to dry.
  12. As everyone else says SDS is the way to go- you can easily get one from the local tool hire place if you don't want to buy one, but you'd find even a cheap one a sound investment.
  13. These types of cable have an insulation that is capable of withstanding much higher temperatures than standard automotive wires are capable of handling (typically 105 Celsius) which means that you can run the wires much hotter and hence why these are used in motorsport, military and similar applications. There are two problems with this- if you run it near anything else rated at the lower temperature (wire, cable ties, tubing, grommets, interior trim etc.) you would cause damage to these by overheating and secondly you will encounter a higher voltage drop than the bigger wires, which as we know on older LR products may be problematical. The insulation diameter is also much less than standard automotive wire which may cause an issue with connector seals not working properly or insulation buckets on crimps not gripping correctly, although a small piece of heatshrink will often solve this. In short if you aren't designing a full system i'd not reduce the wire size!
  14. Also had the Ben Fogle book plus some T handled Bondhus Allen keys.
  15. Personally i much prefer spending my money on good secondhand industrial gear than mediocre modern ger. Importantly don't get put off by three phase kit- Used inverters can be had from ebay for about £50 if you are prepared to wait a little. Three phase kit is often much cheaper- i was lucky enough to pick up a bench meddings in very good nick for £55! Also if buying from a dealer delivery on a pallet is usually possible for circa £50- might get odd looks from the nieghbours but it opens up possabilities.
  16. I'll have a good look at the Zodi one- is it nice and robust?
  17. Thanks gents for the replies- I have been considering other options as well, and I have used the simple approach of boiling water up and using a pressure sprayer, however I want to be able to use this for more than one person after another, so an instantaneous supply becomes attractive, and I also want it to be independent of the vehicle so it can be used wherever needed, not tied to wherever the vehicle is, hence wanting to know if anyone had any experience with these particular units. (or similar). I have thought about using a Webasto or Eberspacher unit, and this is my plan B. However, once I have got all the parts together to do this (2nd hand thermotop, new pump, petrol tank, buffer tank, exhaust tube, valves etc), I was approaching the cost of one of these units and I’ve still got to put it together- again making a pre-packaged unit very attractive. That whale unit looks a bit more robust- but I expect will be quite a lot more expensive.
  18. I have been contemplating a portable gas camping shower for when we are out and about, possibly an Eccotemp L5 or L10: https://www.eccotemp.com/ Does anyone have experience of these or similar- in particular- do they actually do what they say on the tin as regards to temperature and flow (or are they wildly optimistic?) and how robust are they? Do they cope well enough with being lugged around in the back of the landy? Any comments good or bad, or for other manufacturers would be welcome.
  19. I know it is a bit further afield for you, but I recently bought a new trailer from Hazlewood Trailers http://www.hazlewoodtrailers.co.uk/ and have been very pleased with it. Solidly built, good service and happy to produce exactly what you want.
  20. Another vote for a cold saw- I found one at an autojumble for £15 which needed a new capacitor, but was single phase. It is really solid and gives a lovely finish. I would buy again if I could find one at a good price.
  21. Another supplier is Service Metals . Just picked up their catalogue today at the commercial vehicle show.
  22. I've got a Gabro BF620 which i have found great- It and the guillotine take up far more space than the unit linked, but they are incredibly versatile.
  23. I don't know how you are set budget wise, but the current state of the art in EV motors that you can buy off the shelf are GKN/Evo and Yasa: http://www.gkn.com/driveline/our-solutions/edrive-systems/eMachines/Pages/default.aspx http://www.yasamotors.com/ These are the types of motors being widely used in electric sports cars, vans etc. There are other alternatives, but you'd certainley get the right sort of performance out of them. As Si has pointed out DIYelectriccar is a good source of info, as is the endless sphere forum- as might be expected there is always a load of politics going on between posters!
  24. I know it's not quite plug and play, but I have had good luck buying a used inverter from ebay and wiring it up in an enclosure. I paid less than £50 for an almost new Omron unit.
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