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Ed Poore

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Everything posted by Ed Poore

  1. Pilfered from an app note by LittelFuse but shows some of the stuff the electronics is meant to survive. It's actually pretty simple these days to design electronics to handle automotive stuff and reverse polarity etc., there's quite a few chips these days that do it all in one.
  2. If the compressor is living in a not very dry shed / workshop get a drier / filter for it. I've got the 50A R Tech and it really doesn't like sea air from Wales. Like the Lidl ones it's ambitious on its ratings but will do 10mm reasonably comfortably. Last time I fired it up it wasn't striking the pilot arc, submitted a support ticket on their website on a Sunday evening. 0930am on Monday I had a phone call from one of their engineers, talked through the problem and he suggested tweaking the spark gap on one of the PCBs. Got it fired up again (although it's back to misbehaving). Oh I should point out it was 5 years out of warranty when I had the 40 minute chat on the phone with them. The support ticket was actually asking about how to ship it back to them to quote for a repair. So they're good on their support, but I have had a few issues with it but can't complain about their support.
  3. Ah but I have two spare blocks for those if you wanted them - no crankshafts mind...
  4. How have you done that? Can you fit the equivalent of a 130 clutch? When I replaced the gearbox many moons ago I did the clutch at the same time and replaced it the heavy duty / 130 spec Valeo one. About 100k later (after lots of towing, general abuse and getting smoke out of it at one point) when I snapped a crank ordered another because it was silly not to. The one that came out was still perfectly usable and showed no significant wear on it.
  5. Are they genuinely worn or just polished? If the latter could you just whip off the head and sump in-situ, new set of rings onto the pistons and a quick blast with a drill hone to reinstate the cross-hatching and reassemble. Can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle, just pushing out the pistons from underneath.
  6. I think when I broke the 4.6 P38 I got about £600 for the engine (irrelevant in your case). A couple of hundred for the gearbox and then maybe £150 for the two diffs to Nige (with one of them being the stronger 4 pin ones being a V8). It was then maybe a £150 weighed in. I've still got a bunch of parts taking up space that no one was really interested in. So I think you'll be extremely lucky seeing close to £500 by the time you've taken the useful bits you want out of it.
  7. Sorry there was some?...
  8. Having just opened TunerStudio I know that's not possible . Before I left my previous job they brought in SAP - for almost a year and a half my boss had no clue how much budget any of his projects had. We used to have this beautifully simple internal web page called Project Browser where you could go, enter the project code and it had three tabs. Summary, Hours and Direct Expenses. On summary it said how much money the project was allocated, how much had been spent and how much was left. The other tabs broke down exactly what you expected. It was updated live as people charged to it. SAP - well after 3 years of being there when it was introduced I never successfully ran a query to know how much a project had spent. Whilst I was farm sitting for my parents I had a visit from an electronics distributor rep - since he'd driven all the way down from Reading area gave him a cuppa and we sat and talked even though I wasn't involved heavily with the business at the time. They'd had SAP introduced a year before - one of the outcomes of that was that they were unable to ship anything for a month. Superb for a electronics component distributor...
  9. Only need a foot or so in each corner.
  10. Regarding ramps - some cut up bits of railway sleeper are wonderful, being a Land Rover you don't even need to cut the ends into an angle to drive on. Easily modifiable to any length you want, if you're flush you can have one sleeper per corner. I made some when I lived in Surrey because I didn't even have a driveway at home there and it meant that even if the air was completely out of the suspension on the L322 then I could still fit underneath it which made a big difference to me knowing I wasn't going to get squashed by 2.75t of Range Rover.
  11. Same here - basically all I got from what I read was that he changed in a render from bonded glass to having a metal frame around the windows...
  12. I solve that by having one that weighs over a tonne and not on wheels so can't be moved easily. Does have the benefit of being 28kVA so when it eventually gets plumbed in it can run the house, workshop and office during power cuts. House due to being an old care home still has the generator changeover switch still plumbed in.
  13. Either to add aircon or use it as a compressor, maybe... I've got it clearing in a mock-up, just.
  14. I don't know about trailer floors but any composite "wood" I've seen has been floppy as a floppy thing or incredibly brittle and fragile. We got some reconstituted 2x4s to replace the slats on a bench in the town hall. Couldn't support their weight over a 6ft span.
  15. Not the closest to you but not horrendous is Scaffolding Direct on the wirral. They'll do delivery but it costs a bit usually. We've bought all our scaffold clamps from there in the past but two out of three times we've been passing.
  16. Only just started messing about with petrol EFI stuff as Pete knows but electronics I do understand (hence designing my own Speeduino board). You say you don't have a 4 channel scope on hand - does that imply you have an oscilloscope to hand? If so can you attach it to the VR sensor output and see what that's doing? If the sensor is producing garbage then my guessing is it's game over for MS to try and figure out what's going on (hence the unreliable results). On Speeduino there's a VR conditioner which cleans up the signal before sending it into the processor, I'm guessing this is built into the MS hardware, if you can figure out where it is then scoping the output of that if the input looks good would also see whether that's behaving itself.
  17. They can also be doubled up so that the winch line runs through the central hole as well.
  18. This is the old school non politically correct powerful motor too.
  19. True but with all the dust escaping through cracks I kind of assumed there'd be enough leaks...
  20. If you do Stephen's suggestion of hooking up a vacuum then make sure you have a hole in the other side. I was blasting the RRs hub and got fed up of not being able to see so though I'd attach a Henry. Turns out he's really really good at sucking Taped hose to the cabinet filter output, switched on all good. Put hands into gloves, gloves suddenly "swelled up" then big bang and 6mm thick glass imploded into the cabinet. Guess I should have opened a hole opposite then...
  21. Shipping container buried in the garden to hide all the bits.
  22. You throw some big stuff out too! Shame the batteries died making it's way down to me.
  23. Mine does... Seriously though those Range Rover seats in mind have taken some abuse, okay they weren't the best shape to begin with but for £150 for the complete set and making £600 profit by selling the old ones I couldn't complain. Wet muddy dogs daily with their claws, the missus' dog being sick on them, child accidents, dogs accidents etc. Some wet wipes and they're good to go. Leather is far easier to keep clean I've found. Comfort wise I didn't find the Defender seats uncomfortable but they're not in the same league as the RR ones, even without the lumbar support switch connected to adjust it. Mind you they are the older 2004 vintage so have the split back rest which is adjustable which I've found so much nicer on long journeys being able to support my head and shoulders. They can be fitted to a standard seat box but you have to be a certain body size to make that work (I remove front seat motor to drop the front of the seat squab down). A custom seat box is so much better though as it allows for more variability in driving position. Even if I still haven't painted it 5 years on...
  24. Slight tangent but how does the P38 box affect turning with the tyres? Does it sit inside the wheel arc so to speak so doesn't affect it? Just curious because a 1UZ with factory aircon etc., is very tight to a standard 4 bolt setup.
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