Jump to content

Ed Poore

Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    2,755
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Posts posted by Ed Poore

  1. 20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    I don't know how a new RR or Disco or Velar stacks up against a new Defender in terms of price & spec?

    It used to be that the RR got all the toys pretty much as standard. However I just went on to their website and who knows :blink:. It all seems to be down to wheel and colour choice and how many motors in your seat.

    I couldn't even find our what the different PXXX engine numbers actually were. I know it refers to the horse power so P530 was a 530hp petrol, but V6, I6, V8?! Actually ended up Googling to find out that maybe the P530 engine was a 4.4l V8.

    Regardless the RR started at £104k... :blink:

    Mind you I hated the look of the old Sport but in the current line up it looks a lot better than the elephant arsed Range Rover. Much prefer the look of the L322 though.

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

    I see 

    Not overly worried, I've already been thinking of making an extended bed to fasten to mill bed and then attatch dividing head and tail stock

    Regards Stephen 

    I've got a bridgeport bed not currently attached here. Just whip up some extended dovetails and you can borrow it :hysterical:

    Alternatively come down for a visit and I'll take you up the road where the smallest mill has a 6ft bed on it. The lathe chucks are measured in feet.

  3. Which bits of the bumper do you need? Plastic or metal bits? I might have a couple going free. Metal bits are crusty and I can't remember what the state of the plastic is in yet.

  4. 1 hour ago, Snagger said:

    That is why the big-engined Defenders are hobbled by oversize rims and low profile tyres.  It’s a poor engineering choice that was probably forced on them by aesthetic constraints, knowing McGovern and his excessive influence.

    When you've got that power under the bonnet though it is nice having big brakes. A friend drove my old 3.6 up to Scotland when we went stalking. As we passed Ardverikie I asked how he was finding it, he said it was a bit wallowy in the corners. I said well it's not the "sport" version but check the speedo next time it feels a bit wallowy.

    Next time we went around a corner there was a string of expletives. He thought he'd been going around corners at 20-30mph but because it drove so smoothly and he enjoyed driving he was actually cornering more like 50-60mph. The big brakes had unwittingly got him out of trouble without him realising.

    He did end up knocking 3h off what would have been a 12h journey...

    • Like 3
  5. A cracking example of what I was getting at was I went on a site visit where they were experimenting with 3d printing artillery shells. The director who was giving me the tour had got royally peed off with the team because they basically remade a shell that was made on a lathe. So it took longer, wasn't as good and offered no benefit in performance.

    What he had expected them to do was print the shell with a honeycomb structure inside. The explosives were liquid so would have flowed around the structure but then they could have made the shell lighter with the same strength and got more explosive in.

    • Like 1
  6. I wouldn't forget the main thing is to think carefully about the design first. I know you didn't ask about aluminium but I'm using it as an easy example.

    People often replace bits with aluminium thinking it'll be lighter but in a like for like situation the aluminium quite often ends up weighing the same and costing twice as much because it's not as strong and work hardens / is more brittle. Where aluminium wins is if you start being clever with the design such that you can make stronger structures with less materials.

    I think the same is true of the more "exotic" steels. They have their place but there's a lot to be said for "mild" steels flexibility. For example yes you could make steering rods out of EN24 that's massively strong etc., but what happens when you push things - you'll probably break something more difficult to replace. A soft flexible steering rod, perhaps a little thicker, that can be bent back into shape more easily if the worse were to happen in the middle of nowhere would probably be preferable to some unobtanium steering rod. Particularly if it's not swappable for a standard one reasonably quickly.

    PS not directing it at you @FridgeFreezer but more for completeness of the thread.

    • Like 1
  7. 3 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said:

    If I had the money though, I would without doubt buy a 110 as a daily driver as I have a fairly lengthy commute and a few big journeys every year. But would be to sit alongside my current defender rather than replace it!

    My biggest problem with the new Defender is the L322. I'm not one for buying new vehicles, I'd rather buy a good vehicle even if that's an older one. I got my current L322 about the same time that James bought his 110. For the price he paid for a fairly basic model I got a 4.4TDV8 admittedly with 100k on the clock but a £30-40k price difference makes for a lot of diesel and a lot of repairs if needed.

    Is the new Defender more comfortable on long journeys than a 2011 RR? I seriously doubt it. Does it tow any better? Again I seriously doubt it particularly with a 330hp/700Nm engine under the RRs bonnet. Is the new Defender any better off road? Again I doubt there's much in it, the Defender does have a slightly better selection of tyres going for it I suspect because of the smaller wheels available. I guess the new Defender is slightly more practical for hosing down / slightly more utilitarian but then again for £60k you could buy two L322s, panel out one of them and completely trash it inside and still be cheaper.

    Horses for courses I guess, people have their preferences (otherwise it'd be a bloody boring old world). To me I can't look past the saving of £40-50k on a secondhand RR for what would be on daily use the better vehicle (in at least my opinion). I have taken mine on some fairly serious stuff off-road but tend to avoid it, mainly because it's nice having a tidy vehicle for the occasions you need it but equally they've had dead deer chucked in the back on the rubber bootliner. My old 110 has scratches all over it, battered and bruised, in an daily use and doesn't mind having a few more scratches added to it. If the RR got the same way I suspect we'd take it off road more but for now it's relatively scratch free.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  8. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with my Bridgeport to be honest, the electrical cabinet took a knock when I moved it from one workshop to another. I think the only thing that's bought it has been the main isolator switch which is simple enough to replace. I just haven't had time to re-assemble it all.

    Might be open to an offer on it - it was in good nick with a load of collets and various bits for it (no actual cutting tools but they're simple enough to source).

  9. 3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    If you've got the space those horizontal mills seem to come up a lot for quite cheap... although they seem more specialised than regular vertical mills, I've seen Abom79 do a lot with his.

    They're not more specialised they're actually more versatile than vertical ones. The main difficulty is that you can't see what you're doing as well as on a vertical mill hence why they tend to fall out of fashion.

    You can get vertical head attachments for them and equally vice versa. My Gaston Dufour is a horizontal mill which unfortunately I only have the vertical head for, no overarm support for running slitting discs etc. The bridge port ironically also has a 90° head on it and also has underarm support so you can run long arbours. 

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy