Ed Poore

They're not more specialised they're actually more versatile than vertical ones. The main difficulty is that you can't see what you're doing as well as on a vertical mill hence why they tend to fall out of fashion. You can get vertical head attachments for them and equally vice versa. My Gaston Dufour is a horizontal mill which unfortunately I only have the vertical head for, no overarm support for running slitting discs etc. The bridge port ironically also has a 90° head on it and also has underarm support so you can run long arbours.

Double stack or quadruple stack some spacers

I know you were agreeing . I guess changing discs is a bit easier as well as you don't need to remove the caliper (well the bit with the hoses attached) so servicing costs might be a bit lower / lower risk too.

I still think it's cost but you won't get the same braking force from a "single" piston as two. Hence why the Brembos on the 4.4TDV8 cover 1/3rd of the brake disc and are why you can't fit smaller than 20" wheels on them. Isn't the JCW a more "powerful" version?

I thought that but as I was responding to both threads I made sure to double check. Only just got up so still possible I guess

My meeting is on the 12th, likely in the South East so would probably be heading back on the weekend. Haven't worked out complete logistics yet.

Weird forum glitch... Posted to the wrong thread...

I think it was the first time I went to replace the rear discs on the RR whether the process was to remove the sliding portion thus meaning you didn't have to remove the caliper. After pulling, pushing, smashing, heating, lubricating and a lot of swearing they still wouldn't budge. I ideally didn't want to replace them as that would involve (I thought) a pain in the backside process with the diagnostics to bleed them all down due to the traction control and ABS. Planing for the worst I got a new pair of calipers but thought I'd try drilling out the stuck pins first to save bleeding. Put a grinder through the pins to split the caliper, bloody pin fell out after that

I might be diverting that sort of direction in a couple of weeks if you'd like them collecting and chucking on a pallet.

Why is that? Cost? I personally hate the bloody things. Only vehicle I have that has them is the rear of the RR, never had an issue with the 110s calipers being double sided. Fronts on the RR never had an issue even with 8(?) pistons in them. Rear of the RR or my Mums Toyota Avensis, sisters old Auris, Dad's Shogun they all suffered from stuck sliders. Bearing in mind only one of those gets used off-road regularly.

You don't need a mill but they are handy. Of you had to choose one then a lathe would be the best. You can mill small parts on a lathe but it's difficult to turn parts on a mill. I would probably use the mills more than the lathe (still need to wire in the generator properly) but if I only had to have one I would keep the lathe.

I guess the same reason why crimps are used for most manufacturing rather than soldering. Soldering like welding is a skill and requires someone competent to do it without affecting the underlying components. Crimps and riveting are certifiable processes - once the tools have been calibrated and tested then any "monkey" can do a good job. Welding and soldering can also affect the underlying material.

Pilfered from an app note by LittelFuse but shows some of the stuff the electronics is meant to survive. It's actually pretty simple these days to design electronics to handle automotive stuff and reverse polarity etc., there's quite a few chips these days that do it all in one.

Where abouts is it Mike?

If the compressor is living in a not very dry shed / workshop get a drier / filter for it. I've got the 50A R Tech and it really doesn't like sea air from Wales. Like the Lidl ones it's ambitious on its ratings but will do 10mm reasonably comfortably. Last time I fired it up it wasn't striking the pilot arc, submitted a support ticket on their website on a Sunday evening. 0930am on Monday I had a phone call from one of their engineers, talked through the problem and he suggested tweaking the spark gap on one of the PCBs. Got it fired up again (although it's back to misbehaving). Oh I should point out it was 5 years out of warranty when I had the 40 minute chat on the phone with them. The support ticket was actually asking about how to ship it back to them to quote for a repair. So they're good on their support, but I have had a few issues with it but can't complain about their support.

Ah but I have two spare blocks for those if you wanted them - no crankshafts mind...

How have you done that? Can you fit the equivalent of a 130 clutch? When I replaced the gearbox many moons ago I did the clutch at the same time and replaced it the heavy duty / 130 spec Valeo one. About 100k later (after lots of towing, general abuse and getting smoke out of it at one point) when I snapped a crank ordered another because it was silly not to. The one that came out was still perfectly usable and showed no significant wear on it.

Are they genuinely worn or just polished? If the latter could you just whip off the head and sump in-situ, new set of rings onto the pistons and a quick blast with a drill hone to reinstate the cross-hatching and reassemble. Can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle, just pushing out the pistons from underneath.

I think when I broke the 4.6 P38 I got about £600 for the engine (irrelevant in your case). A couple of hundred for the gearbox and then maybe £150 for the two diffs to Nige (with one of them being the stronger 4 pin ones being a V8). It was then maybe a £150 weighed in. I've still got a bunch of parts taking up space that no one was really interested in. So I think you'll be extremely lucky seeing close to £500 by the time you've taken the useful bits you want out of it.

Sorry there was some?...

Having just opened TunerStudio I know that's not possible . Before I left my previous job they brought in SAP - for almost a year and a half my boss had no clue how much budget any of his projects had. We used to have this beautifully simple internal web page called Project Browser where you could go, enter the project code and it had three tabs. Summary, Hours and Direct Expenses. On summary it said how much money the project was allocated, how much had been spent and how much was left. The other tabs broke down exactly what you expected. It was updated live as people charged to it. SAP - well after 3 years of being there when it was introduced I never successfully ran a query to know how much a project had spent. Whilst I was farm sitting for my parents I had a visit from an electronics distributor rep - since he'd driven all the way down from Reading area gave him a cuppa and we sat and talked even though I wasn't involved heavily with the business at the time. They'd had SAP introduced a year before - one of the outcomes of that was that they were unable to ship anything for a month. Superb for a electronics component distributor...

Only need a foot or so in each corner.

Regarding ramps - some cut up bits of railway sleeper are wonderful, being a Land Rover you don't even need to cut the ends into an angle to drive on. Easily modifiable to any length you want, if you're flush you can have one sleeper per corner. I made some when I lived in Surrey because I didn't even have a driveway at home there and it meant that even if the air was completely out of the suspension on the L322 then I could still fit underneath it which made a big difference to me knowing I wasn't going to get squashed by 2.75t of Range Rover.

Same here - basically all I got from what I read was that he changed in a render from bonded glass to having a metal frame around the windows...

I solve that by having one that weighs over a tonne and not on wheels so can't be moved easily. Does have the benefit of being 28kVA so when it eventually gets plumbed in it can run the house, workshop and office during power cuts. House due to being an old care home still has the generator changeover switch still plumbed in.