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Ed Poore

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Everything posted by Ed Poore

  1. How does water in oil affect the operation of PRVs? Given the small volume I'd be inclined to change it as if it's got water in either by leakage or condensation it'll affect it's operation.
  2. My original one died and needed a replacement fast so cue Amazon Prime and sourced a Tacklife PAH03D for £60 and I've been genuinely very very impressed with it. Use it for both TIG and MIG and grinding. Came with a bunch of spare parts, case and has replaceable batteries which I wouldn't normally expect on something this price. I've never experienced an expensive helmet but a friend who has and compared this very favourably, particularly even before you considered the price point.
  3. He may have been tired of it all (and I understood he was fed up of the Land Rover scene) but I asked a few genuine questions about whether he still made them / lead times / pricing / availability and had a rather curt and inappropriate response for those questions. Hence why I resorted to building a custom one of a similar design.
  4. Build one, it'll be faster... Fair enough if you've got all the bits, I know my bracket and Denso compressor fit very nicely onto a 300Tdi Defender!
  5. I can probably dig out part numbers if you want? But I'm using mine for on-board air so don't have any aircon part numbers if that's what you are doing.
  6. I think you're getting confused about different compressor brackets. When I researched mine there is only one bracket for a 300Tdi. It's designed for the Denso 10PA compressor which was standard fitment. The 200Tdi has a selection of different compressors if I remember correctly. 300 and 200s should be the same between Disco/RR/Defender. The studs locate the compressor in the right place. There's then a tensioner that replaces the timing belt cover to take any slack out. The bracket linked to in the eBay link is correct for the 300Tdi. If it doesn't match you're compressor then you've got the wrong compressor.
  7. New dining room table from the folks, magimix from my nan and replacement slow cooker from my sister. Guess they'll go well with the beastie currently hanging in the garage below me in the Highlands.
  8. Correct. Although I've found the helicoils strip out relatively easily. Tried whacking a tack with the TIG which seems to be holding despite being cast ali to steel threaded bar (my bracket is missing the original studding).
  9. @zardos yes that is the right bracket. There are helicoils into the base where those threaded bars are mounted. The air con pump mounts onto those and the holes are for the bolts to the block.
  10. Oh and I picked up one on ebay about 2 years ago for a tenner.
  11. I've got one of those brackets on my 300Tdi for mounting my on-board air compressor (AC compressor). Wouldn't be too much hassle to whip it off. I also have a friend at work who, at least before Christmas, was low on work and bored and with a 3d scanner... I could ask him to cheekily scan it. At least that way we'd have an STL file of the bracket. Up to you then how it gets machined. Don't think 3d printing in ABS would quite stand up to it unfortunately but you never know...
  12. Note a lot of galvanisers will either rufuse it or charge you a large surcharge if there's a lot of paint on it because it messes up their baths.
  13. If you've got the luxury of not relying on it then what I'd be doing is stripping it down and inspecting things. Make a call then rather than buying stuff and not needing it. Shouldn't take too long if you've got somewhere nice (i.e. undercover) to work.
  14. There was a thread on def2 about a chap seeing how much power he could get out of a 300Tdi purely for academic purposes. Might be worth seeing if that thread is still around.
  15. Work allowing (which is unlikely) I'd be sorely tempted to come along as support crew. Sure I could round up a couple of mates, one of them is a bloody good cook for big groups. Just need to find somewhere to go hunting on route for the tender loin venison steaks
  16. Presumably you have a standard intercooler lying around? If it were me I'd just wire up an EGR and see how she goes. In general I've found that LR actually do a damn good job on the engineering of their vehicle. There aren't very many things they actually got wrong. Yes I realise everything can be upgraded but as a production vehicle they generally do a damn good job. I remember a thread I read on a Yank forum about upgrading their axles to fully floating and how it was the bees knees and so revolutionary not supporting the weight of the vehicle on the drive shafts. Hmm, surprising no one had done it before... Anecdote aside what I was getting at is these vehicles in standard trim run quite happily in the desert and much hotter climates that would benefit from an intercooler. Therefore I don't think you'll have an issue in the UK. Whether you see any performance benefit is an unknown. I do seem to recall that Ian Bell did a load of dyno testing and if I remember correctly the only thing that was really significant in terms of affecting power and torque was intake airflow and the only thing that really affected that was snorkel and pipework design. I.e. If you want performance don't bother fitting a snorkel, the ram air effect people talk about with (notably those with Safari style) was rubbish. The snorkel itself does far more damage to the airflow than could ever be achieved from forcing air down. Not sure if the report he did looked at different intercoolers. Wonder if my rally contacts know anything. My folks company has also done some work for the guys in Llanelli who build all the cooling systems for the new Land Rover products so they are likely to have some hard facts.
  17. I've recently been paying some attention to my long neglected engine (a 300Tdi but in a 110 USW). So far I've replaced a blown manifold gasket and replaced the jubilee clips with those bolt based ones (T clamps?) and been able to tighten them up quite nicely. Those two changes along with setting the valve clearances and changing cambelt have made a marked improvement on how she pulls (bearing in mind I'm running a 1.2 transfer box). I've got a bit of a knock which I suspect is a dodgy injector but not narrowed it down yet. But I suspect giving things a bit of an overhaul will make a big difference. Given it's done 160k in my ownership and basically just had oil changes done (and not at particularly regular intervals in the past). I'd be inclined do the sensible stuff like cleaning it up, new gaskets and running a standard intercooler first. See how it goes and then potentially talk about upgrades. I've never had an issue with mine and it's not been looked after as well as some but it's been 160k of trouble free motoring and it's always got me there.
  18. If you get foggy / misty / cloudy conditions a lot where you are I'd stay away from the majority of the LEDs. They're normally quite a white light which is horrendous for reflecting back in foggy conditions. There's a reason why Land Rover fitted normal halogen bulbs to the fog lights on vehicles such as my L322 despite having Bi Xenons as the main headlight. If you want long range then unless you're willing to shell out a lot then I think the halogen / HID offerings are much more cost effective. Most of the LED light bars I've seen are superb for flood light effects but aren't great at long distance. Go Aussie style and aircraft landing lights on the roof for long range. @FridgeFreezer has I think a pair of Cessna lights on his ambulance if I remember correctly. As always the more you pay the better the quality. I've found doing the headlight wiring loom upgrade made a big difference and comparing it side by side with some friends which cheap LED light bars, yes they flood light the area better nearby but they really struggle to get the range of my bog standard H4 bulbs on high beam. I have also been contemplating a light bar (not really a fan off them since they're a bit in your face) but more for floodlight effect.
  19. Right after a very quick test drive it looks like the vacuum pump has sorted quite a lot of the issues. Dogs jumped in for the ride so didn't slam on the anchors but the brakes definitely felt better. Think I need to replace my pipe though, it looks like it's had better days.
  20. In one word, it's painful. There's an oh **** mode as well if you pull the handbrake while moving (car does as much as it to stop). Never plucked up the courage before I sold it as someone who had been through both a brick wall and tried it out said the brick wall was infinitely more preferable.
  21. Annoyingly a day or so after ordering mine I had the offer of not only a second hand vac pump FOC but an entire 300Tdi engine . Don't have the space but I know where it is now!
  22. It certainly sounds like it. I've just had the new vacuum pump delivered for mine and picking up a gasket at lunch today. I'm unlikely to have time until the weekend to replace it but I can run the same tests you your father has so see if it's exhibiting the same symptoms. Can then let you know if it fixes it
  23. At the risk of going off topic - what do you consider best in class? You mention Land Rover but from having owned a 3.6TDV8 L322 I'd have thought that's pretty much as best in class as you can get for an off-road vehicle. You did mention Land Rover not Defender ...
  24. Hmm, now I've just recently (well still have to pick it up) had mine refurbished (seals began to give up) it'd be nice if it was motorised. Turns out I picked up an absolute steal, cylinder is rated to 700 bar (>10,000 psi) and if I remember the dimensions correctly its actually closer to 100 tonnes not 30. Not sure what the frame is capable of surviving. Enerpac still make the cylinders (for circa £3k ). [edit]Paid £150 for it[/edit]
  25. Tell me about it - I seem to have a never ending battle with my drop arm, it's basically being replaced every year just before the MOT now. Gone from being a **** to get off to working loose over time despite having the correct nuts and locking washers (although the current ones are carp). Got a new steering box I'm refurbishing and probably going to change to a Disco drop arm instead.
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