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Matthew

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Everything posted by Matthew

  1. I left mine tucked up for about 2 years....all it needed to pass an MOT was a replacement reversing light (connections had rusted away so I couldn't save it!) By far the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned (and will never sell!)
  2. So last time I bought some new AT's the friendly chap convinced me to swap from Marshall Power Guards to Kumho 825's, similar sort of tyre and I've been quite pleased with them. Now I come to buy two more for the front I find they are no longer available!? I have two nearly new Kumho 825's on the rear, with a nearly new spare. What do I put on the front?! I'd love another 2x or 3x 825's if anyone knows of any kicking around?! matt
  3. All very interesting ideas. As with many products you can buy batteries of varying qualities and specifications. Some batteries will have great cold weather performance and others less so, the same can be said for warm weather too! Working temperature ranges; (degrees C) Mid range lead acid -25 to +40 Mid range AGM -25 to +40 Lifeline AGM -40 to +71 Odyssey AGM -45 to +45 Armasafe AGM* -40 to +80 *Odyssey's military range. As an example of temperature's effect on capacity; (mid range AGM) Lifeline AGM Odyssey give the option to purchase their batteries in a 'metal jacket', just add MJ to the end of any Odyssey part number. This metal jacket is designed to help keep batteries warm in extreme conditions and has helped extend service life somewhat. Temperature has a massive effect when charging or discharging, charge voltage should be reduced with increased temperature. Temperature compensation is required when the temperature of the battery is expected to be less than 10°C / 50°F or more than 30°C / 85°F during long periods of time. The recommended temperature compensation for most VRLA (valve regulated lead acid batteries is -4 mV / Cell (-24 mV /°C for a 12 V battery). The centre point for temperature compensation is 20°C / 70°F. A specific battery storeage warehouse will always have batteries raised from the concrete floor in racking systems, using woodern shelves (usually ply) with the temperature regulated at 21 degrees C. I've used many different batteries over the years, in fairly controlled conditions, nothing seems to compare with the Odyssey range for long term use. Their resistance to 'abuse' seems unmatched, no other battery has been able to withstand the high vibration & impacts, the heavy loads for long durations, you really do get what you pay for with batteries. Matt
  4. Oh...someone else had to buy at full price did they!! Cost me a fortune to sort my L322 out in the end, but now it does have a brand new engine and runs sweet as a nut (running off to touch some wood..quick!)
  5. Hi all, I've recently changed the engine in an L322, the previous owner didn't have any antifreeze in and it caused considerable damage. Everything seems to be working ok, however occasionally it will cut out when you select reverse, and once in a blue moon when you select drive. Anyone ever had any similar issues? Any suggestions what to tinker with first? Its a 2002 4.4 L322, so has the BMW engine. Just encase anyone else is interested in replacing the engine in one of these, Land Rover have now reduced the price of a replacement BMW engine from £14995 (yes nearly £15k!) to around £5000 + vat. Cheers, Matt
  6. Hi all, Thanks for all the input regarding this thread, thought I'd let you all know which route I've decided to go; I love the idea of an M5 powered L322 but couldn't find the right engine for the right price so I've gone with rebuilding my existing engine. After speaking with a friend that owns a Land Rover workshop he recommended Warrington Engine Centre to do the job, funnily enough they have just finished doing his L322 which suffered from the same problems as mine. They've rebuilt plenty of these engines to know what they're doing, and considering they've just finished my friends it should be pretty fresh in their minds, hopefully that means when they do mine it should go pretty smoothly. The downside is the cost...I'm looking at around £4k for the whole job, remove, strip, rebuild, refit and test. Not as cheap as I'd hoped but hey, at least it'll be done properly. They have said that depending on what they find when they strip it I may get a cheaper bill. £4k is pretty much worst case and isn't subject to any surcharges. Unfortunately it does mean I'm going to (extremely reluctantly) sell my beloved Defender, which I really don't want to do because over the past 5 years I've replaced EVERYTHING that could possibly go wrong with new genuine parts and it has to be the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned as a result. I'm never going to get back what it owes but I never get the chance to use it offroad so keeping it just doesn't make sense. If anyone is in the market for an extremely tidy 200TDi Defender then let me know! I'll also be selling all my offroad toys as well, Mach 5's, Simex JT's, Warn winches and all sorts. Thanks again for all the info, very useful as always. Matt
  7. Thanks for all the info chaps. I've spoken to a few companies now and it would seem I'm looking at between £3000-£4000 + vat for a full rebuild including removal & refitting. A couple of companies have said they would be able to do it cheaper depending on what they find when stripping it, which is nice, but all companies say subject to them receiving a serviceable unit in exchange - so I could be in for a higher bill if I get stuck with any surcharges Bogmonster; I already have a very reliable Defender which I love to bits, the RR is in pursuit of warm driving though the winter months and some comfortable boat towing! My little 200TDi doesn't like towing big boats to much. James; How I would love to do that!! If a manage to keep the Defender while fixing the RR I certainly see a 3.5/3.9V8 conversion on the horizon. I had one planned at the end of last year but then ended up with a job thats kept me in Thailand since February! (adding to my need for warm driving in the winter!!) TSD & Jules; I will definitely try the companies you've suggested, might find out some more useful info about this engine. Jules, if you wouldn't mind and its not to much trouble could you send me the contact details? Love the idea of an M5 powered LM322! Thanks again chaps! Matt
  8. Thanks for the advice Nige..very useful to know. I did expect the BMW engine to be more difficult to get sorted than the Rover V8's, just need to find the best company for the job (will try the suggestions above next week) Only hope I don't have to sell my Defender to fix the RR Cheers, Matt
  9. Thanks for the info gents, I will give the suggested companies a call. Cheers, Matt
  10. Hi All, Is there anyone that can off some help or guidance? I need to get a 4.4ltr V8 rebuilt or replaced with a new/recon engine this side of Christmas. Can anyone suggest a suitable company that would be able to help? Preferably a forum member so we can keep it in the (LR4x4) family! Following the rebuild/replacement I'd also like to have it equipped with an LPG system, so any recommendations for this would also be extremely welcome. I'm based in Dorset, but would happily send the vehicle away to be sorted. Many thanks for any help available. Matt
  11. Hi. Can anyone recommend a good company around the south of England to do an LPG conversion on a RR for me? I understand many people buy the kits from Tinley Tech and fit themselves, how does this work out with your insurance companies? Don't they require a certificate from an approved installer? Many thanks for your help. Matt.
  12. This one has worked very well for me, and for a number of years - been underwater a good few times and just keeps going!! http://www.drakemarine.co.uk/acatalog/Voltage_Sensitive_Relays.html
  13. Excellent engineering! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6428&st=100
  14. Hot off the press!?!?! Ditch those old MT's, you don't need em! be one of the first to experiance to truely extreme mud paddles.....coming to an orange-clad-truck near you soon! http://mudpaddles.com/
  15. I'm sure the availability of 100" chassis/donar vehicle goes a long way toward this, the amount of Discovery1/RRC's you see kicking around, and at under £1k its a good place to start.
  16. I certainly will do John, although I'm not sure it'll be quite up to the exceptionally high standard of Mr. Henson's "How To's"! Thanks for the offer of pic's Adrian, I'm sure they will prove extremely useful! Cheers, Matt
  17. Yes please! I want to get the engine and box/s set back as far as possible for obvious reasons. I have heard of people using the existing transfer box mountings to set the position of the gear box and engine mounts; i.e. remove engine and gearbox mounts from chassis. connect engine, gear and transfer box together out of vehicle, lift into vehicle and mount the transfer box on original mounts, then mark out engine and gear box mounts. This enables you to use your existing propshafts - only thing is I don't think this will get the engine and box as far back as i would like. Thanks for the heads up John, i shall keep any eye out for that!! Cheers, matt
  18. I'm liking the sound of that! Definitely seems like the best solution to me, any information you can give me about this setup would be great! When are you planning on getting your swap started? I just need to find a good donar now, I definitely want to go auto, I've been driving a big V8 auto pickup for ages and I've become very fond of loads of power/lazy left leg! Thanks for the box tip Bowie! Cheers, matt
  19. Ah..not quite as cheap as a RRC donar! Think i'll stick with the more common 4HP22. Thanks for your help! matt.
  20. Thanks for the tip, I would like to find a donar preferably with a 4HP24EH, does anyone know which models they were fitted to? Thanks,matt
  21. thanks for the reply! I'm sure it's not as straight forward as I think..nothing usually is when it comes to landrovers!! But surely it's all worth just for the sound alone! matt
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