davedavies

I had some stuff off them a few year ago with no problem, funny enough I was looking at their site a few days ago and saw this which may help explain things http://www.straightforwardsupplies.co.uk/a..._Supplies_.html I hope you get sorted

My Defender was off the road for several weeks for a starting problem which turned out to be no feed to the AS10 unit. All TD5s need them to run as it talks to the ECU, fuel pump and starter motor. Sorry, no idea what goes where...

Worth speaking to the council before you start, some are better than others so know your facts and don't let them fob you off - most cases the 70m3 volume for permitted development clears planning and 30m2 clears building control - I kept my 'garage' under both and cost me nothing in applcation fees plus I have letters from the council saying its permitted, very handy when you come to sell the house. I built mine out of blocks, rendered to match the house, galv. tin sheet roof, 6m long from local farm barn builder (less to joints so no leaks). If you go down the steel route the boundry will be your problem, tin cladding to walls might be better than ply, block doesn't rust and IMHO is a better long term solution... The old dear next door did ask if I could get a car arund the side of the house to put in the 'garage' but nothing says you have too Been up 10 years, full of junk and never had a car near it...

Good thread, takes me back 20 years since I last did physics I had to think about it but this should be the other way around 1kg approx 9.81N. I remember when asked how the unit of a Newton was invented/determined my physics teacher told us it was the force of the apple which hit Issac's head I once had a beam fitted with a jointing plate, the engineer had specified 10.8 bolts - the steel erector used 8.8 and the plate slipped and the beam dropped in the middle when loaded! Shows the grade really does make the difference

Cheers, interesting My truck usually played up due to water - more heavy rain than wading - I'll be looking closely at the old loom for signs of damage

But is it road legal? I'd love to make mine simpler, AS10, ECU and loom aren't taking to each other meaning it won't start - looks like a new loom is required, not cheap

Happens to the best of us... Hope Mark's OK and the damage doesn't cost too much...

Nearly went for 285s but in the end went with 265s - I've been very pleased with them on my 90 as I do lots of road miles and they're fine at speed and in the wet. I've found them great off road but I know someone with a 110 who couldn't get enough grip...maybe the extra weight? I think the actual size was a little larger than the quoted 265x75

I've seen a section of scaff tube just bolted each side of the roof on a Jap truck - seems very simple and effective...

I bought the same jack off the same people and had the same problem with first use - ended up kicking the pin/latch bit a couple of time with my size 13 rigger boots and it's worked fine ever since Only jack I now carry, find its very stable when lifting on the sides under the rockslider sills...

LOL - should have said many garages don't bother refitting the top bolt as the bottom two seem to hold the starter fine...

Yep, top fixing is a sod to get off until you get the right combination of extensons on the socket etc... I am told many garages don't bother refitting it - I did, much easier putting it back

Contacts are cheap Jap stuff - as is the whole of the solenoid according to my auto electrician mate who did mine before Christmas

OT but I do like the first few pics showing the 'exposed' ends of the rear cross member - I was wondering about doing the same to mine to help with cleaning the mud out... Where's me grinder

Hamond is just glad he didn't agree to flying it:) Great TV

I get about Bob, just not as much as Paul I've read some very good posts on here...

Paul certainly knows a lane or two:) Shame I had to finish early, looks like the tree clearance was fun