gadget

Hello, I don't normally frequent the Freelander part of the forums, but today I solicit advice... A family member has a Freelander 1 which has thrown the ABS/TC/HDC lights on the dash. I've checked the brake pedal switches and the HDC switch and they appear fine. Is there a way to get the WABCO module to show the error code via blink codes on the Freelander or am I going to be looking for someone with a Hawkeye?

I've been trying to track down a vibration/drone on my Discovery for a while now. I keep hoping that whatever it is will just break and then I can fix it... Today I put the Discovery over the pit and serviced it. Whilst swinging on the front shaft I made a note of the side to side play in the transfer box output shaft. I put the Defender over the pit afterwards and compared it. There's pretty much no play in the Defender whereas the Discovery has noticeable play. Check your transfer box front output and see if it moves side to side. It could well be this that's causing the noise.

Genuine it is. Thanks.

I've got a few hoses that I'll need to replace on my TD5. I could save a few pounds buying after market hoses instead of genuine, but having been down this road before with a few parts that turned out to be utter rubbish, i'm wondering if i'll have the same issue with coolant hoses? Do you buy genuine or after market hoses?

My gut feeling is that something isn't right, but it's my first Defender so i'm in to new territory. Perhaps it has cheap pads fitted? I'll take the wheels off and have a look to see if there's anything obviously amiss. The 110 doesn't have ABS, but does having ABS increase applied breaking force?

I've just picked up a 110 TD5 and the brakes on it make my Discovery brakes look like F1 performers. The pedal feels like I expect it should, it just doesn't seem to stop anywhere near as quickly as my Discovery. Is this how 110 TD5 brakes are or should I add the brakes to my list of things that need looking at?

I think i got my adwest seal kit from LRDirect. Quite a while ago, so can't be certain.

It seems that the seal arrangement changed at some point from 4 parts to 5. I'd be interested to see how to fit the 5 part seal kit in to the box. I gave up and bought Adwest part number 5938600. It has 4 parts as per the ones you removed. Don't forget to check the shaft for scoring/pitting before you replace the seals.

I bet you're a six sigma black belt in it

Brilliant. Thanks for that I have to get my google fixed. I didn't see it when I searched

Can anyone tell me what wheel style ANR4847 are please? I'm trying to locate a couple of replacements but searching by the part number isn't turning up many.

The seals failed on mine because the sector shaft had pitted and worn. They are repairable, but if you're looking for the repair to last it's a lot more involved than simply swapping seals. There are two types of seals too. Take your seals out and check which you have before you buy replacements.

Replaced the doughnut and centring bush today. (The new doughnut is about 5mm thicker than the original) The old one wasn't damaged in any way, but the rubber is MUCH softer than the new one. The vibration has subsided tremendously, but I still have the drone. It sounds like a wheel bearing, but there's no play in any of them. Swerving hard left and right doesn't change the tone or amplitude of the drone. Now the vibrations are much less I can detect the drone on overrun too, but it's only slight.

Swapped the wheels around today and there's no difference in the noise/vibration. Swung on the UJs again and there's no play in them. I had another closer look at the doughnut and there are some very fine circular surface cracks around the bolt holes, very similar to perished rubber cracks. No obvious splits or tears though.

The UJs and the centre bearing in the DC were replaced probably 700-800 miles go. The joints still feel tight. I've driven the discovery about from cold for 20 or so miles and then got underneath to see if there's any obvious warming of any of the UJs but they all seem ok.

There are no obvious splits or cracks in the doughnut. Propshaft splines appear fine. The marks on the props and yolks that were made when the UJs were replaced all line up. It doesn't feel like a tyre problem, but i'll swap them around and see if the noise/vibration changes at all.

I'm getting a vibration and droning noise on my TD5 when under load. It comes in at a little over 50MPH and is pronounced from there until about 67MPH. It sounds very similar to this problem other thread but there's no resolution from the OP The vibration is road speed controlled and occurs at the above speeds in either 3rd, 4th or 5th gear irrespective of engine RPM. Lifting off the throttle reduces the drone and vibration to almost none. There's no additional vibration felt through the steering wheel, but the vibration is felt through the gear lever. All UJs are new and don't have any obvious play in them. Could the doughnut cause the vibration and the drone? Any thoughts?

Excuse my Defender ignorance, but how much chopping and changing would need to be done to that chassis in order to mount the TD5 engine, fuel tank etc?

I'm pretty sure they will upgrade it as per Mattia's plan, but at what cost? Blackbox aren't renowned for their discount offerings On the plus side they might fix the bugs

Just come across this: It is becoming increasingly obvious from the many positive comments made on various internet forums that the NANOCOM EVOLUTION is widely recognized as being a very good product with a high demand. One of the reasons for this is that it is a complex unit with a high degree of technical merit, but the price is really quite low. Sadly however, the provision of such high technology at such a low price simply just does not provide adequately for any expansion of the Nanocom company and so despite best effort being applied by the Founder, It has proven far too difficult to provide an adequate or acceptable supply or support infrastructure, which of course has been the cause of so much of the complaint and criticism. Mostly however this has also caused delays and prevention of any possible future development of the Nanocom software. There are after all only 24 hours in each day. To address this, and make a massive improvement which benefits everyone, Blackbox Solutions Ltd has made an agreement with Nanocom to effectively take over the business and management of it, and along with its own products, will now, also handle all public aspects of the Nanocom business, IE, build, supply, administration and support of Nanocom products, using it's existing and well respected infrastructure. This will allow the original developer of the Nanocom the opportunity and possibility to concentrate solely on future developments, which of course can be aided by the co sharing of the massive amounts of experience and the huge wealth of technical knowledge that BBS is renowned for. I am sure that many may be quite surprised to read that two companies who are so well known and generally regarded as competitors should agree to collaborate as we so obviously have, but when both have such a genuine and common desire to help Land Rover owners out above all else, and realize that this can better be achieved by working together rather than individually, anything is possible. <blackbox-solutions.com/docs/BBS-NANOCOM.pdf> I guess the price of a Nanocom is going to go up somewhat.

Thanks. If there's not an awful lot in it between the two options then buying a shed and doing a ground up is the better option. If only for the fact, as you mention, of ending up with something in better condition.

Folks, I'm considering getting a 110 Utility Station Wagon and am pondering either buying one and giving it a galvanised chassis and bulkhead, or getting hold of any old 110 V8/TDI Station Wagon shed with a V5 and rebuilding that as a TD5 Utility Station Wagon with the same galv bling. Ignoring man hours which would you say is the most cost effective approach?

Anyone?

Looking for someone local with a Hawkeye who will change a BCU setting for me please? There's either a bug in the Nanocom Evo software or my BCU is possessed

Anyone nearby to Warrington/St Helens/Wigan area with a Hawkeye that can try the BCU setting for me?